Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812M)
Mt. Ama Dablam is considered as the most beautiful mountain in the world. This mountain is in pyramid shaped and one of the most stunning as well as impressive mountain. The glacier is hanging on southwest face of Mt. Ama Dablam in the high resembling a ‘Dablam’- the sacred ornament box worn by symbolizing Sherpa Ladies became the reason to call her name “Ama Dablam”. Mt. Ama Dablam is located to the south of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse in the most popular Khumbu valley and offers superb diversions of close up view of the both mountains and in addition of Mt. Makalu and Mt. Cho Oyu. This Mountain stands above Tangboche Monastery which is another pearl of beauty due to combination of its setting and architecture on the way to Everest Base Camp. However, the Ama Dablam Expedition demands good skills of rock climbing, ice climbing, sufficient experience of high altitude and technical competency.
If you have previous climbing experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountain then Ama Dablam Expedition is the best suited. Ama Dablam is a technically demanding mountain for climbing in Nepal. It is also considered anOrnament of the Himalayas in Nepal. Although the height is only 6812m Ama Dablam Expeditionrequires steep ice, rock and snow climbing.
Ama Dablam is also the third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions. The most popular route for climbing Ama Dablam is the Southwest Ridge. The climb is typically done with three camps along the ridge with camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam, so that any ice that calves off the glacier typically goes away from the camp. A climbing permit and a liaison officer are required when attempting Ama Dablam. As with Mt. Everest, the best climbing months are April-May in spring season and September-October in autumn season.
Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. There will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safe route, free from the objective danger such as avalanche and so on. The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Most of the route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge. The climb is relatively safe though exposed and sheep and not really a mountain for debutantes.
Ama Dablam Expedition Base Camp Service:
- Friendship World Treks & Expeditions provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the Expedition. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
- We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food.
- In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three times delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients.
- We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.
Ama Dablam Expedition Full Board Service:
- In full board Service we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa.
- We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 including food and fuel provisions, and assist the client all the way to the summit on this technical climb, where one requires a climbing buddy and a be layer. The climb requires cooperation between teams in setting up fixed ropes. Our camp manager and guides will coordinate work with other teams on the route setting.
Approaches to ABC:
Approach to the Base camp is short, sweet and beautiful beginning with the amazing flight to Lukla and following Everest Base camp trail through Namche Bazaar to Pengboche and peeling off it just past Pangboche. The Base camp is located at 4200m.
The standard climbing route is via the Southwest ridge with typical arrangement of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4500m and High Camp at 5000m.
High Camp is located 150m below the ridge and all other 3 camps are directly on the ridge ensuring a great vantage point for all camps for stunning views.
Oct 21/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel (1340m)
Oct 22/Day 02:Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.
Oct 23/Day 03:Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m) and trek to Phakding (2800m approx 4 hrs walk)
Oct 24/Day 04:Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m approx 6hrs walk)
Oct 25/Day 05:Namche Bazaar rest day for acclimatization, you may walk to Everest view Hotel (3800m approx 2 hrs) seen Everest range mountain, back to Namche and visit Hilary and Sherpa museum.
Oct 26/Day 06:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860m approx 5 hrs walk)and visit monastery.
Oct 27/Day 07:Trek from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4400m Approx 4 hrs walk)
Oct 28/Day 08:Base Camp preparation INSERT:CONTENT:ENDamp; rest day.
Oct 29/Day 09-25:Climbing period (summit Ama Dablam 6,812m)
Nov 14/Day 26:Trek from Ama Dablam base camp to Tengboche(3860M approx 6 hrs walk)
Nov 15/Day 27:Trek from Tengboche to manju (2800m approx 07 hrs walk)
Nov 16/Day 28:Trek from Manju to Lukla(2840m approx 5 hrs walk)
Nov 17/Day 29:Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (35M) transfer to hotel sight seen major point in Kathmandu and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening
Nov 18/Day 30:Final Departure or alternatively, join other activities.
Every Year in spring and autumn the Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition could be scheduled.
In autumn you may start this expedition since end of August and complete at around end of September and, or any dates during August till October not exceeding middle of November for end of it. In this period the temperature toward the expedition area is changing from hot to cold. So, the climber has to face the critical situation for acclimatization for approaching to summit.
However in spring, the temperature to the Ama Dablam climbing area is getting from cold to hot which is more convenient for approaching to summit after sufficient acclimatization and practice in various camps. Start at the beginning of April and end at the beginning of June is the best recommended period for Ama Dablam Expedition in spring. The total duration will be within 30 days.
Thus we strongly recommend our climbers to choose the spring season for their Ama Dablam Summit Dream however, we are ready enough for organizing the Expedition in both autumn and spring of the year.
Ama Dablam Expedition Spring 2016 Itinerary
Apr13/ Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel (1340m)
Apr14/Day 02:Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m) Overnight at Lukla
Apr15/Day 03:Trek from Lukla to Phakding (2800m) approx 4 hrs
Apr16/Day 04:Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m approx 6hrs walk)
Apr17/Day 05:Namche Bazaar rest day for acclimatization, you may walk to Everest view Hotel (3800m approx 2 hrs) seen Everest range mountain, back to Namche and visit Hilary and Sherpa museum.
Apr18/Day 06:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860m approx 5 hrs walk)and visit monastery.
Apr19/Day 07:Trek from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4400m Approx 4 hrs walk)
Apr 20/ Day 08:Base Camp preparation Rest day.
Apr21- May 08/Day 09-26:
Climbing period (summit Ama Dablam 6,812m)
May09/Day 27:Trek from Ama Dablam base camp to Tengboche(3860M approx 6 hrs walk)
May10/Day 28:Trek from Tengboche to manju (2800m approx 07 hrs walk)
May11/Day 29:Trek from Manju to Lukla(2840m approx 5 hrs walk)
May12/Day 30:Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu (35M) transfer to hotel sight seen major point in Kathmandu and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening
May13 /Day 31:Final Departure or alternatively, join other activities.
- The above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customized according to your available time and requirements.
- The final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extended depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.