2023 Everest Season: Deaths, Permits and Why It Was the Deadliest Year

By Blake Penson · Updated 2026-10-23

Blake Penson has climbed Everest twice and has 20 years in the mountains.

The spring 2023 Everest season is widely reported as the deadliest in the mountain's history, with 18 deaths among climbers and Sherpas, including several missing and presumed dead. Nepal issued a record 478 Everest climbing permits to foreign climbers that season, up from the previous record of 408 in 2021. Causes cited include unusually cold and variable weather, crowding, inexperienced clients and low-budget operators, and climate change, though observers disagreed on how much each contributed. The season also brought reports of abandoned trash at Camp 4 and thefts at Base Camp. Since then, Nepal has raised the Everest royalty to US$15,000 for spring (from 1 September 2025), banned solo ascents of 8,000 m peaks and tightened waste rules. This page was first published at the end of the 2023 season and has been updated with what changed afterwards. Compare Everest operators by verified climber reviews in ExpedReview's Everest rankings.

2023 Everest season at a glance | Fact | Detail | |---|---| | Deaths | 18 (including several missing, presumed dead) | | Permits issued (Nepal, foreign climbers) | 478, a record | | Previous permit record | 408 (2021) | | Notable record | Kami Rita Sherpa's 28th Everest summit | | Major issues | Cold, variable weather; crowding; trash at Camp 4; Base Camp theft | | Previous worst single disaster for climbing staff | 16 killed in the Khumbu Icefall avalanche of April 2014 |

How many people died on Everest in 2023?

Most counts put the 2023 Everest toll at 18, the highest number of deaths among climbers and climbing staff in a single season. The total includes climbers who went missing high on the mountain and were presumed dead. Deaths came throughout the season, starting in April, when three Sherpas died in an ice collapse in the Khumbu Icefall, and continuing through the summit pushes in May.

Some comparisons also count the 2015 earthquake, which triggered an avalanche that killed many people at Everest Base Camp, or the 2014 Icefall avalanche, which killed 16 Nepali climbing staff in one day. Those were single disasters; 2023's deaths happened across the whole season, in many separate incidents.

Record permits

Nepal issued 478 Everest permits to foreign climbers in spring 2023, the most ever. With Sherpas and other climbing staff, the number of people on the mountain was far higher. Many observers worried before the season that this would lead to dangerous queues, as seen in 2019.

In the end, very cold, windy and unpredictable weather limited summit days and kept crowds from forming in the same way. Many climbers turned back or went home without summiting. Several leading operators still reported strong summit results.

How the season unfolded

The 2023 season followed a familiar pattern, but with more people than ever:

1. April: Teams arrived at Base Camp and the "Icefall Doctors" fixed the route through the Khumbu Icefall. Early in the season, an ice collapse in the Icefall killed three Sherpas, a grim start.
2. Late April to early May: Climbers made acclimatisation rotations to Camps 1, 2 and 3. Ropes were fixed to the summit.
3. Mid to late May: Summit pushes took place in short, cold weather windows. Most deaths, frostbite cases and rescues happened during this period, many high on the mountain.
4. Late May to early June: Teams cleared camps and left Base Camp, and the scale of the losses became clear as missing climbers were presumed dead.

Strong winds and cold limited the number of good summit days. That kept the crowding seen in 2019 from repeating, but it also meant many climbers were pushing at the same time in harsh conditions.

Why was 2023 so deadly?

There was no single cause. Observers pointed to a combination of factors:

Weather

Nepalese tourism officials said the weather was unusually variable and cold, and connected this with climate change. Extreme cold raised the risk of frostbite and exhaustion, and short, unpredictable weather windows forced many teams to push at the same time.

Inexperience and low-budget operators

Some guides and the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association argued that too many permits were being issued and that more inexperienced climbers were attempting Everest with operators who rarely turned clients away. Other guides disputed that inexperience was the main factor.

Crowding and logistics

With a record number of permits, crowding on fixed ropes and at camps added risk, especially when many teams used the same weather windows.

Objective hazards

The deaths in the Khumbu Icefall early in the season were a reminder that the Icefall remains one of the most dangerous parts of the climb, especially for Sherpas who cross it many times.

Trash at Camp 4 and theft at Base Camp

A widely shared video from a Sherpa climber showed tents, oxygen bottles and other rubbish abandoned at Camp 4 on the South Col. Some companies reportedly removed logos from abandoned tents. Several teams also reported thefts of equipment and oxygen at Base Camp.

Nepal requires every Everest climber to pay a US$4,000 garbage deposit, refunded when they bring back 8 kg of waste. Since 2024, climbers have also been required to carry poo bags above Base Camp and bring human waste back down. See poo bags on Everest.

What has changed since 2023?

Later seasons have had fewer deaths. Spring 2025, for example, saw five deaths on Everest according to press reports.

The north side in 2023

Almost all of the 2023 activity was on the Nepal side. China had kept the Tibet side closed to foreign climbers since 2020, and it reopened too late in the 2023 season for most international operators to plan expeditions. A small number of Chinese climbers summited from the north. The return of international teams to the north side in later seasons has spread some climbers away from the South Col route. See the Everest North page.

How Everest deaths are counted

Death tolls can differ between sources because of how they count:

• Missing climbers. Some climbers disappear high on the mountain and are only later presumed dead.
• Location. Some counts include deaths at Base Camp or on the trek; others only count deaths on the climbing route.
• Side of the mountain. Some tallies cover only Nepal; others include Tibet.
• Cause. Some sources separate deaths from illness, such as heart attacks or altitude illness, from accidents.

The Himalayan Database, started by Elizabeth Hawley, is the most widely used record of Himalayan expeditions and deaths.

Frostbite, rescues and helicopter flights

Besides deaths, the 2023 season saw many cases of frostbite and numerous rescues, including helicopter evacuations from Camp 2 and lower. Extreme cold on summit days, combined with long hours at altitude, made frostbite of fingers and toes a common injury. Climbers who ran out of oxygen or became exhausted on the descent often needed Sherpas to help them down. These rescues put Sherpas at further risk.

Altitude illness on Everest

Many Everest deaths and rescues involve altitude illness, including high-altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) and high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE). Above 8,000 m, in the death zone, the body cannot acclimatise. Exhaustion, cold and lack of oxygen make climbers slower and more likely to make mistakes. Read ExpedReview's guides to acute mountain sickness and how the body copes above 8,000 m.

The permit debate

Everest permits are an important source of income for Nepal, and climbing supports thousands of jobs for guides, porters, cooks and lodge owners in the Khumbu. That creates pressure to issue more permits, even as critics argue that crowding and inexperience increase risk. After 2023, debate continued about limiting permits, requiring minimum experience and raising fees. The royalty increase from September 2025 and the 2025 solo ban were among the changes that followed, though calls for experience requirements and stronger operator standards continue.

Records in 2023

Kami Rita Sherpa set a new record with his 28th Everest summit in May 2023, and has since extended the record further. Records like these highlight the vital role of Sherpas, who carry loads, fix ropes and guide clients, and who face the greatest risk on the mountain.

The role of Sherpas

Sherpas and other Nepali climbing staff make Everest expeditions possible. They fix the ropes from Base Camp to the summit, carry oxygen and equipment, set up camps, and guide clients on summit day. Many cross the Khumbu Icefall dozens of times a season, which makes them the most exposed people on the mountain. Choosing an operator that pays, equips and insures its staff fairly is one of the most important ways to climb responsibly.

Lessons for climbers

The 2023 season has lessons for anyone planning an Everest climb:

• Experience matters. Build skills and altitude experience before Everest. See Mount Everest for beginners.
• Choose your operator carefully. Ask about Sherpa-to-client ratios, oxygen, turnaround rules and staff insurance.
• Respect turnaround times. Many deaths happen on the descent after late summits.
• Expect bad weather. Allow extra days and be ready to go home without the summit.
• Leave no trace. Carry down your waste and trash.

Read our guide to climbing Everest responsibly.

Where to find reliable Everest data

Death and summit figures for any Everest season vary depending on the source and when they are counted. The most widely used records are:

• The Himalayan Database, founded on the records of journalist Elizabeth Hawley, which documents expeditions to Nepal's peaks season by season.
• Nepal's Department of Tourism, which issues permits and publishes official figures.
• Expedition reports and news coverage, which are fast but often revised as details emerge.

Early reports often differ from final totals, because deaths may be confirmed later, bodies may not be recovered, and some deaths happen on the descent or after evacuation. When comparing seasons, check whether a figure includes the north side, staff as well as foreign climbers, and deaths below Base Camp.

How 2023 compares with other deadly years

Before 2023, the deadliest years on Everest were linked to single disasters: the 2014 Khumbu Icefall avalanche, and the 2015 earthquake, which triggered an avalanche at Base Camp. The 1996 season, made famous by books and films, saw eight people die in a single storm on 10–11 May. What made 2023 stand out was that deaths were spread across the season and the mountain, from the Icefall to the summit ridge, rather than caused by one event.

Frequently asked questions

How many people died on Everest in 2023?

18, according to most counts, including climbers missing and presumed dead. It is widely described as the deadliest Everest season.

How many Everest permits were issued in 2023?

Nepal issued a record 478 permits to foreign climbers in spring 2023.

Why was the 2023 Everest season so deadly?

Factors included cold, variable weather, crowding, inexperienced climbers and objective hazards such as the Khumbu Icefall.

What was the deadliest day on Everest?

The 2015 earthquake avalanche at Base Camp and the April 2014 Icefall avalanche, which killed 16 Nepali climbing staff, were the deadliest single events.

How many people summit Everest each year?

It varies. In good years, several hundred people summit from Nepal and Tibet combined, including Sherpas.

Has Nepal changed Everest rules after 2023?

Yes. Nepal raised the Everest royalty from September 2025, banned solo ascents of 8,000 m peaks and enforced waste rules.

What happened to the trash at Camp 4?

A viral video showed abandoned tents and rubbish at Camp 4. Cleanup efforts continue, and climbers pay a US$4,000 garbage deposit.

How many Everest summits does Kami Rita Sherpa have?

He set a record of 28 in May 2023 and has added more summits since.

Are Sherpas rich?

Most are not. Experienced climbing Sherpas earn more than many in Nepal, but the work is dangerous and seasonal, and pay varies widely between operators.

Which side of Everest is safer?

Both sides have hazards. Nepal's route crosses the Khumbu Icefall, while the Tibet side is colder and windier with a long, exposed summit ridge.

What is the Himalayan Database?

A record of expeditions to the Nepal Himalaya, started by journalist Elizabeth Hawley, widely used for summit and death statistics.

How can climbers reduce their risk on Everest?

Build experience first, choose an experienced operator, use enough oxygen, respect turnaround times and allow extra days for weather.

Why do Everest death tolls differ between sources?

Sources count differently: some include the north side, deaths below Base Camp or deaths after evacuation, and early reports are often revised. The Himalayan Database and Nepal's Department of Tourism are the most widely used records.