Everest 2026: What's Shaping Up to Be a Record-Breaking and controversial season

TLDR: The 2026 Everest season is underway with the Tibet north side closed, record summit numbers expected, new waste rules in force, a $19 million helicopter fraud scandal making headlines, and reduced rescue cover above Camp 2. It's one of the most significant seasons in years.

The 2026 Everest climbing season is underway and it's already one of the most talked about in years. Here's what's happening on the world's highest mountain right now.

The North Side is Closed

The Tibet side of Everest is effectively closed for the 2026 season, shifting all climbers to the Nepal route. The China-Tibet Mountaineering Association never initiated the normal climber application process and offered no explanation, making it a de facto closure rather than an explicitly stated one. All teams that would normally tackle the North Ridge are now heading to Nepal, adding to what promises to be an exceptionally busy South Col season.

Record Summit Numbers Expected

Between 850 and 900 summits are anticipated this season — up from 731 on the Nepal side in 2025. A proposed requirement that all Everest applicants must have summited a 7,000 metre peak in Nepal is still working through government approval and is not in effect for 2026. An unintended consequence may be a rush of less experienced climbers attempting the mountain this season before the requirement potentially takes effect next year.

Drones Are Changing the Mountain

After a successful trial in 2025, heavy-load drones are back at Everest this season. Local operators are using them to ferry oxygen and ropes from Base Camp up to Camp I, while bringing garbage and human waste back down — each flight taking around 12 minutes over the Khumbu Icefall. It's a meaningful step forward for Sherpa safety, reducing the number of dangerous human carries through one of the mountain's most hazardous sections.

New Waste Rules in Effect

Each climber is now required to bring down 2kg of waste from Camp 2 and above, on top of the existing requirement to deposit 8kg of garbage at Base Camp at the end of the expedition. The mountain's waste problem isn't solved but it's being addressed more seriously than ever.

A $19 Million Fraud Scandal

The biggest off-mountain story involves a Nepali government investigation into allegations of fraudulent helicopter rescues totalling $19 million. The fraud targets trekkers on circuits like Annapurna, Manaslu, and Everest Base Camp rather than Everest climbers themselves, and involves fake helicopter evacuations and hospital stays. It's a stark reminder that in an industry built on trust, choosing the right operator has never mattered more.

Rescue Cover is More Limited This Season

Global Rescue has confirmed they will not provide longline helicopter rescues above Camp 2 for the 2026 season due to a shortage of qualified pilots. The maximum rescue elevation is approximately 23,000 feet. Climbers heading above Camp 2 this season are doing so with significantly less safety net than in previous years and should factor this into their planning.

Record Chasers to Watch

Kami Rita Sherpa is going for his record 32nd Everest summit. Kenton Cool is aiming for his 20th, which would be a non-Sherpa record. Two young American climbers are attempting a no-oxygen ascent, and Australian Oliver Foran is starting his expedition by cycling 1,150km from India's coast before even reaching Base Camp.

Early Conditions

Eight Icefall Doctors are currently fixing ropes and installing ladders through the Khumbu Icefall. Heavy snow is causing delays on neighbouring peaks Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, with a large avalanche on April 2nd narrowly missing Camp 1 on Annapurna and wiping out the route from Base Camp. Conditions on Everest itself are being monitored closely.

The bulk of climbers are expected to arrive at Everest Base Camp around April 15th. Summit windows typically open in mid to late May. It's shaping up to be a season that will test guides, clients, and the mountain itself.

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