Annapurna Circuit Trek Guide (2026–27): Route, Itinerary, Thorong La, Permits, Guide Rules and Best Season
The Annapurna Circuit is one of the world's great treks: a 12- to 18-day journey around the Annapurna massif in central Nepal, climbing from subtropical rice terraces near Besisahar (about 760 m) through the Marsyangdi valley and Manang to the Thorong La pass at 5,416 m, then descending to the pilgrimage town of Muktinath and the Kali Gandaki valley near Jomsom, often described as the world's deepest gorge. The best seasons are March to May and late September to November. Since 2023, foreign trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit must be accompanied by a licensed guide and carry a TIMS card issued through a registered agency (NPR 2,000 for most foreigners), plus an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (NPR 3,000). Roads now reach much of the route, but alternative trekking trails avoid most of the traffic. The biggest challenges are altitude and the long day over the Thorong La, so build in acclimatisation days in Manang. Compare trekking operators on ExpedReview's Annapurna Circuit page.
Annapurna Circuit at a glance | Fact | Detail | |---|---| | Location | Annapurna Conservation Area, Gandaki Province, Nepal | | Duration | About 12–18 days (depending on start/end points and side trips) | | Highest point | Thorong La, 5,416 m | | Start | Besisahar or further up the Marsyangdi valley by jeep | | Finish | Muktinath / Jomsom (fly or drive to Pokhara), or continue to Tatopani and Poon Hill | | Best seasons | March–May; late September–November | | Permits (foreigners) | ACAP NPR 3,000; TIMS NPR 2,000 (via licensed agency) | | Guide | Licensed guide mandatory for foreigners since 2023 | | Accommodation | Teahouses (lodges) |
Why trek the Annapurna Circuit?
The Annapurna Circuit is famous for its variety. In under two weeks you walk from green, terraced valleys and waterfalls through pine and rhododendron forests to the high, dry landscapes of Manang, which lies in the rain shadow of the Annapurnas and feels closer to Tibet. You cross a high Himalayan pass with views of glaciers and 7,000 m peaks, then descend to the sacred temples of Muktinath and the windswept Kali Gandaki valley, which runs between Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, two 8,000 m peaks.
The culture changes as dramatically as the scenery. Lower villages are home to Gurung and other communities, while Manang and the upper valleys have Tibetan Buddhist communities, with monasteries, prayer wheels and chortens. Muktinath is a pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Buddhists.
The route
The classic circuit runs anticlockwise, which allows a more gradual gain in altitude before the Thorong La.
The Marsyangdi valley
The trek starts at Besisahar, a few hours' drive from Kathmandu or Pokhara. Many trekkers now take a jeep further up the valley to avoid the lower road, starting at places such as Chamje, Dharapani or Chame. The trail follows the Marsyangdi river through villages such as Bahundanda, Tal and Dharapani, then climbs through forests to Chame and Pisang. Above Pisang, you can take the higher trail via Ghyaru and Ngawal, which has superb views of Annapurna II and Annapurna IV and gives better acclimatisation than the valley route.
Manang and acclimatisation
Manang (about 3,540 m) is the main acclimatisation stop. Spend at least one extra night here. Popular acclimatisation walks include the Gangapurna glacier lake, the Ice Lake (Kicho Tal) and the Praken Gompa. Manang also has a Himalayan Rescue Association aid post, which runs talks on altitude sickness during the main seasons.
Over the Thorong La
From Manang, the trail climbs through Yak Kharka and Letdar to Thorong Phedi (about 4,450 m) or Thorong High Camp (about 4,880 m). Pass day usually starts before dawn, climbing to the Thorong La at 5,416 m, marked by prayer flags and a teahouse. The descent to Muktinath (about 3,800 m) is long and steep, around 1,600 m down. Pass day can take 8 to 10 hours.
Muktinath, Jomsom and beyond
Muktinath is a sacred temple complex where many trekkers rest. From here, you can descend to Kagbeni, a medieval village at the gateway to Upper Mustang, and Jomsom (about 2,720 m), where you can fly or drive to Pokhara. Trekkers with more time continue down the Kali Gandaki to Marpha, known for its apples, the hot springs at Tatopani, and up to Ghorepani and Poon Hill (3,210 m) for sunrise views of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna.
A sample itinerary
Itineraries vary, especially depending on how far you drive. A typical 14-day plan:
- Day 1: Drive Kathmandu to Besisahar and on by jeep to Chamje or Dharapani.
- Day 2: Trek to Chame (about 2,670 m).
- Day 3: Trek to Pisang (about 3,200 m).
- Day 4: Upper Pisang to Ngawal via Ghyaru (high route).
- Day 5: Trek to Manang (about 3,540 m).
- Day 6: Acclimatisation day in Manang.
- Day 7: Trek to Yak Kharka (about 4,000 m).
- Day 8: Trek to Thorong Phedi or High Camp.
- Day 9: Cross the Thorong La (5,416 m) to Muktinath.
- Day 10: Trek or drive to Kagbeni and Jomsom.
- Day 11: Fly or drive to Pokhara, or continue trekking.
- Days 12–14: Spare days for weather, or extend to Tatopani and Poon Hill.
Side trips
- Tilicho Lake (about 4,919 m): one of the highest lakes of its size in the world, reached from Manang via Khangsar and Tilicho Base Camp. It adds two to three days.
- Ice Lake: a steep acclimatisation hike above Braga and Manang.
- Nar and Phu valleys: remote villages in a restricted area off the main circuit, requiring a special permit.
- Upper Mustang: the former kingdom beyond Kagbeni, also a restricted area with its own expensive permit. See Upper Mustang.
- Poon Hill: a classic sunrise viewpoint on the way down. See Poon Hill.
Permits and rules
You need:
- Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP): NPR 3,000 for foreigners and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals. Children under 10 do not need a permit. Permits bought at check-posts on the trail cost double, so buy in advance online or in Kathmandu or Pokhara.
- TIMS card: under the revised rules effective from 31 March 2023, the Annapurna Circuit is one of the routes where foreign trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed trekking guide and carry a TIMS card issued through a government-registered trekking agency. The fee is NPR 2,000 for most foreigners and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals.
Restricted areas such as Nar Phu and Upper Mustang need special permits from the Department of Immigration. Drones are prohibited in the conservation area without prior approval. See our report on Nepal's ban on solo and independent trekkers.
The roads
Road building since the 2000s has changed the circuit. Dirt roads now run up the Marsyangdi valley to Manang and down the Kali Gandaki from Muktinath, and jeeps and buses use them. Some trekkers are disappointed by dust and traffic on parts of the route, but alternative trails, often marked as the New Annapurna Trekking Trails (NATT), avoid much of the road. A good guide will use these trails. The roads also mean you can shorten the trek by driving sections, which makes the circuit possible in less time and gives better access to help in an emergency.
Altitude and safety
The Thorong La is high enough for altitude sickness to be a serious risk. Follow these rules:
- Ascend gradually, ideally sleeping no more than 300–500 m higher each night above 3,000 m, with a rest day every three to four days.
- Spend at least one extra night in Manang.
- Learn the symptoms of acute mountain sickness, and descend if symptoms worsen.
- Do not cross the pass with symptoms of altitude sickness.
Weather is the other major hazard. In October 2014, a severe snowstorm and avalanches linked to the tail of Cyclone Hudhud killed dozens of trekkers, guides and porters in the Thorong La area. Check forecasts before pass day, start early, and be ready to wait. See what is acute mountain sickness.
Teahouses, food and costs
The circuit is a teahouse trek: you sleep in lodges with simple rooms and eat in shared dining rooms. Dal bhat (rice, lentils and vegetables) is the staple and is usually refilled for free. Prices rise with altitude as supplies must be carried or driven in. Many teahouses charge for hot showers, charging devices and Wi-Fi. Carry enough Nepali rupees in cash, as ATMs are limited, though Manang and Jomsom may have them.
Costs depend on your guide, porter and service level, and whether you book with an agency. Budget for permits, guide and porter wages and tips, food and lodging, transport and insurance.
What to pack
- Good hiking boots, broken in.
- Layers, including a warm down jacket for the pass.
- A sleeping bag rated to around -10°C, as teahouses can be cold.
- Rain jacket and trousers.
- Sun hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.
- Water bottles and purification.
- Headlamp, first-aid kit and personal medications.
- Trekking poles for the long descent from the pass.
Getting there
Most trekkers start from Kathmandu, taking a bus or private jeep to Besisahar, which takes around six to eight hours depending on traffic and road conditions. From Pokhara, the drive is shorter. Shared and private jeeps run further up the valley from Besisahar. At the end of the trek, flights between Jomsom and Pokhara are short and scenic but often delayed or cancelled by wind and cloud, so leave a spare day. Buses and jeeps also run from Jomsom to Pokhara, a long, rough drive.
Fitness and training
You do not need climbing experience, but you need to be able to walk for five to eight hours a day for two weeks, with a long, steep pass day near the end. Train with long hikes on hilly terrain, ideally carrying a daypack, and build up to back-to-back days. Stair climbing and leg strength exercises help prepare for the long descent from the Thorong La. See how to train for mountaineering.
Trekking responsibly
- Carry a refillable bottle and use purification tablets, filters or the safe drinking water stations found in some villages, rather than buying plastic bottles.
- Carry out your rubbish, including batteries.
- Respect local customs: walk clockwise around chortens and mani walls, dress modestly and ask before photographing people.
- Hire porters through reputable agencies, and make sure they have proper clothing, footwear and insurance, and that loads are reasonable.
- Support local teahouses and businesses, and tip your guide and porters fairly.
Choosing a guide or agency
Because a licensed guide is now mandatory, choosing a good guide or agency matters. Look for experienced guides who know the route, use the alternative trails, have first-aid training and understand altitude sickness. Ask whether porters are fairly paid, properly equipped and insured. Compare trekking operators by verified reviews on ExpedReview's Annapurna Circuit page and see our guide to treks in the Annapurna Conservation Area.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Annapurna Circuit?
Most itineraries take 12 to 18 days, depending on how much you drive and which side trips you add.
How high is the Annapurna Circuit?
The highest point is the Thorong La pass at 5,416 m.
Do you need a guide for the Annapurna Circuit?
Yes. Since 2023, foreign trekkers must be accompanied by a licensed guide and carry a TIMS card issued through a registered agency.
How much is the Annapurna permit?
The ACAP costs NPR 3,000 for foreigners and NPR 1,000 for SAARC nationals. The TIMS card costs NPR 2,000 for most foreigners.
When is the best time to trek the Annapurna Circuit?
March to May and late September to November. Winter brings snow on the pass, and the summer monsoon brings rain, leeches and landslides.
Is the Annapurna Circuit hard?
It is a long trek with a high pass, but no technical climbing. The main challenges are altitude and the long pass day.
Should I trek the Annapurna Circuit clockwise or anticlockwise?
Anticlockwise, from Besisahar to Muktinath, is standard because the ascent to the Thorong La is more gradual.
Is the Annapurna Circuit ruined by roads?
Roads now reach much of the route, but alternative trekking trails avoid most of them, and the scenery and culture remain outstanding.
Can I fly out from Jomsom?
Yes, there are flights from Jomsom to Pokhara, but they are often delayed by wind and cloud, so allow a spare day. Jeeps and buses are an alternative.
Do I need a porter on the Annapurna Circuit?
No, but many trekkers hire one. A porter carries your main bag between teahouses, letting you walk with a light daypack, and provides local employment.
What is the Thorong La?
The highest point of the Annapurna Circuit, a pass at 5,416 m between Manang and Muktinath.