The volcanoes in Mexico are the entry point into high-altitude mountaineering for many climbers. They are easily accessible, not too high and technically rather easy. The highest among them, and also the highest volcano of North America, is the glaciated Pico de Orizaba. Via Mexico City we reach this beautifully situated mountain and climb it on the classic Jamapa glacier route. Following a fiesta with Mexican culinary highlights we continue to Santiago de Chile. A domestic flight takes us to Copiapo at the edge of the Atacama Desert. From there it’s off to the Nevado Tres Cruces National Park where we make use of our acclimatization from Orizaba and undertake fabulous tours reaching almost 6000m in the stunning countryside. Optimally acclimatized we then climb the 6893m high and technically easy summit via the Tejos Hut. Lastly, we head home with the highest volcanoes of the Americas tucked under our belt.
Highlights:
- The highest volcanoes of the Americas
- A unique combination of these two amazing mountains in one unforgettable trip
- Mexican New Year’s Eve party
- UIAGM (IFMGA) mountain guide
Itinerary
Day 1-10: Pico de Orizaba in Mexico
Day 1: Flight to Mexico City and overnight stay in a hotel.
Day 2: City tour and overnight stay in a hotel.
Day 3: Transfer to our lodge in Tlachichuca (2600m).
Day 4: A short acclimatization trek followed by a rest at the lodge.
Day 5: Another acclimatization trek to approx.4000m
Day 6: Acclimatization trek and city tour of Tlachichuca.
Day 7: With the jeep and then on foot we make our way to the hut at 4200m. Overnight stay in a simple hut.
Day 8: Summit day. We leave early in order conquer the 1400 meters in height which await us. Descent to the hut and jeep ride back to Tlachichuca.
Day 9: Reserve day in case of bad weather.
Day 10: Return to Mexico City and overnight stay in a hotel.
Day 11-21: Nevado Ojos del Salado in Chile
Day 11: Flight to Santiago de Chile. Overnight stay in a hotel.
Day 12: Domestic flight to Copiapo and drive to Laguna Santa Rosa at 3700m. A beautiful lagoon with flamingos. Camp.
Day 13: During an acclimatization tour to one of the surrounding lower five thousanders we get to experience the unique mysticism of the Atacama Desert. Then it’s onward to Laguna Verde at 4300, where we will camp out for 2 nights and bathe in the hot springs.
Day 14: Hike and rest.
Day 15: Hike and afternoon departure by jeep and then on foot to the Atacama camp at 5100m. Overnight stay in tents.
Day 16: After breakfast we bring our equipment and water to the small Tejos hut at 5830m and descend back into the Atacama camp.
Day 17: Ascent to the Tejos hut where we will spend the night.
Day 18: Summit attempt. We climb over gravel, boulders, snow and glaciers to the crater rim. The last meters to the summit require some 2nd level of difficulty climbing. Then we descend to Camp Atacama or to the Tejos Hut.
Day 19: Reserve summit day.
Day 20: Return to Copiapo and overnight stay in a hotel.
Day 21: Homeward journey with the return flight from Santiago de Chile arriving home on the next day.
