Mount Everest, known by the Nepalese / Sherpas as Sagarmatha and by the Tibetans as Chomolungma, is the world’s highest peak at 8850m (29,035 ft) and is the border between Nepal and Tibet. Since the 1920s, many of the world’s top climbers have attempted to scale Mount Everest, and May 29, 1953 marked the first successful ascent by Tenzing Norgay (Nepal) and Sir Edmund Hillary (New Zealand). Madison Mountaineering offers the premier climbing experience on Mount Everest in regards to summit success, safety, and overall experience. Our teams work together, have fun, and form lasting bonds of friendship over the course of the expedition. Our camaraderie as well as the very high level of support sets us apart from the other teams, we often come to the aid of other climbers in distress. We achieve this with small teams, top guides & sherpas, a focus on safety and good decision making, an overall goal of summit success and making the ‘return trip’, and enjoying the experience of Everest throughout the expedition.
Our Expedition Leader:
As Expedition Leader and Guide for 11 years running on Mount Everest, Garrett Madison has overseen all aspects for his teams related to planning, organization, and climbing on Mount Everest. As one of the best known “Expedition Leaders” on Mount Everest with the highest success and safety record in recent years, Garrett has personally accompanied 52 climbers (clients) up Mount Everest to the summit since 2009 (as well as many co guides and climbing Sherpas), more than any other guide or Expedition Leader. Garrett is known for ‘climber care’, making the well being of his clients his number one priority, this is perhaps the most important differentiating factor in our expeditions compared to the others on Mount Everest. Garrett has recently climbed Mount Lhotse (4th highest mountain) two times, in guiding climbers on the “peak to peak” combination where members climb Mount Lhotse the day after reaching the top of Mount Everest. Garrett has been part of many “firsts” on Everest, such as the 2016 first ascent by an American with a prosthetic leg, however, his proudest accomplishment is a 100% safety record for clients under his watch while climbing the peak.
Our Everest Guides:
After his 11th expedition to Mount Everest (the last 10 years as ‘Expedition Leader’), Garrett Madison has reached the top 9 times. Garrett has personally guided more climbers (52) over the last 8 years than any other mountain guide or Expedition Leader. Our Everest guide team includes very experienced mountain guides with multiple Everest summits such as Brent Bishop, Conan Bliss, Billy Nugent, Geoff Schellens, Fred Alldredge, and Sid Pattison, some of the most experienced and capable Everest guides on the mountain. This vast amount of organizational and logistical expertise, combined with a commitment to provide the best possible services to ensure safety and success, make Madison Mountaineering the premier boutique guiding company on Mount Everest. Climbers will have an unparalleled opportunity for safely climbing to the summit and returning to base camp, as well as climbing Lhotse if desired. Enjoying the experience is a high priority, and our climbers can attest to having a great time throughout! (Please contact us for past Everest climber testimonials)
Our teams are different than the large scale operations where climbers are locked into specific dates for rotations and summit attempts, and may be one of many people sitting down to eat in the dining tent, or dealing with illness spreading throughout the group. Often these large groups have only a leader who remains in base camp and coaches members over the radio, while with our team your leader climbs with you to the summit and back, often making the crucial ‘mission critical’ decisions on the spot, this is a big part of our high level of success and safety. By keeping our team small yet highly supported, we don’t compromise our standards in providing the best strategy, flexibility, and resources needed to succeed in the dynamic environment that is Everest. The equation for success and safety involves variables that can and often rapidly change such as: Weather (wind speed, precipitation, temperature), Acclimatization and health, Climbing route (the route often changes daily through the Khumbu Icefall), Other climbers and teams (climbers needing assistance, evacuation, as well as periodic overcrowding on the route).
We can quickly adjust to changing conditions better than any other team. We have the best communication systems available to monitor the weather (along with a few dedicated meteorologists), to communicate with other teams on the mountain to collaborate on the route, weather, rescues, and summit schedule. We have an experienced base camp manager, a menu plan developed by a certified nutritionist, and a helicopter available that can evacuate an injured or ill climber if necessary from as high as Camp 3. Our Sherpas are among the finest and most respected on the mountain, as evidenced by our Sherpas who took part in fixing the ropes to the summit on May 15th, 2017. We are a team that works together to accomplish our common goals of safety, success, and having fun. If you would like to know more, we invite you to contact us!
Mount Everest is a harsh environment. We take pride in creating a team that can not only reach the top but can also get down safely, and survive. We are one of the few teams that has the ability to support climbers in distress who are high on Everest, commonly called the ‘death zone’ which is above 8000 meters. In both 2016 and 2017, our team provided medical support at Camp 4, the South Col, and contributed to the ultimate survival of other climbers.