Winter Climbing and Winter Mountaineering: Benefits, Skills, Gear, Safety and the Best Winter Climbs
By Blake Penson · February 19, 2025
Category: training-and-skills
5 min read
Winter climbing means climbing mountains in snow, ice and cold, usually during the calendar winter. It is harder and more serious than summer climbing: days are short, temperatures are low, avalanche risk is higher and huts may be closed. But it also brings quiet mountains, beautiful conditions, and skills that make you a much better all-round mountaineer. To start, you need to be comfortable with an ice axe and crampons, understand avalanche risk, carry warmer layers and a headtorch, and ideally climb with a qualified guide. In high-altitude climbing, a "winter ascent" usually means one made during the calendar winter: in the Northern Hemisphere, between about 21 December and 20 March. The last 8,000 m peak to be climbed in winter was K2, in January 2021, by a team of 10 Nepali climbers.
| Fact | Detail |
|---|---|
| Winter season (Northern Hemisphere) | About 21 December to 20 March for "winter ascents" |
| Main hazards | Cold injuries, avalanches, short days, storms |
| Core skills | Ice axe and crampons, self-arrest, avalanche awareness, navigation |
| Essential extra kit | Warmer layers, mitts, goggles, headtorch, avalanche gear where relevant |
| First winter ascent of Everest | 17 February 1980 (Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy) |
| First winter ascent of K2 | 16 January 2021 (10 Nepali climbers) |
| Good first winter objectives | Snowdonia, Scottish hills, Alpine snow peaks with a guide |
What is winter climbing?
"Winter climbing" covers several activities:
- Winter hillwalking and mountaineering: Ascending mountains on snow, often on routes that are walks in summer.
- Winter climbing (technical): Climbing ice, snow and mixed routes with ice axes and crampons, such as Scottish winter climbing.
- Ice climbing: Climbing frozen waterfalls.
- Winter expeditions: Climbing high peaks, including 8,000 m peaks, in the winter season.
What they share is the cold, snow and ice, and the need for extra skills and judgement.
What counts as a winter ascent?
On the world's highest mountains, a winter ascent usually means one made during the calendar winter, not just in cold conditions. In the Northern Hemisphere, that is from around 21 December to 20 March. Polish climbers pioneered Himalayan winter climbing in the 1980s, starting with the first winter ascent of Everest on 17 February 1980 by Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy. K2 was the last 8,000 m peak to be climbed in winter, on 16 January 2021, by a team of 10 Nepali climbers.
The benefits of winter climbing
You become a better climber
Winter forces you to master the core skills of mountaineering: moving on snow and ice, using crampons and an ice axe, navigating in poor visibility and making decisions about avalanche risk. These skills are essential for bigger objectives such as Alpine 4,000ers or Himalayan peaks.
Fewer people
Many popular hills and mountains are far quieter in winter. You may have whole ridges to yourself.
Stunning conditions
Snow, rime ice and low winter light transform familiar mountains. A clear, cold winter day is one of the most beautiful experiences in the mountains.
Mental resilience
Winter climbing teaches patience, self-care and calm decision-making when things are uncomfortable. That resilience carries over to expeditions and everyday life.
Preparing for altitude
Many of the challenges of high-altitude climbing, such as cold, wind, managing layers and eating and drinking enough, are the same as on winter climbs. Winter climbing is excellent preparation for peaks like Aconcagua, Denali or Ama Dablam.
Your body and the cold
Your body adapts to cold to some degree. Brown fat, a type of fat that generates heat, is activated by cold exposure. Studies suggest that regular cold exposure can increase brown fat activity. People who spend time in the cold also often feel more comfortable over time. But cold adaptation has limits, and it does not protect you from frostbite or hypothermia. Good clothing, food and judgement matter much more.
Cold injuries to know about
| Condition | What it is | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Frostnip | Superficial cooling of skin; numb, pale patches | Rewarm gently; protect from further cold |
| Frostbite | Freezing of tissue, usually fingers, toes, nose, cheeks | Get to shelter; rewarm only if it will not refreeze; seek medical care |
| Hypothermia | Core body temperature drops | Shelter, insulation, warm drinks if conscious, seek help |
| Snow blindness | Sunburn of the eyes from UV reflection | Wear category 3–4 sunglasses or goggles |
Skills you need for winter climbing
- Using crampons and an ice axe, including walking, front-pointing and cutting steps.
- Self-arrest, to stop a slide with your ice axe.
- Avalanche awareness, including reading the forecast, recognising avalanche terrain and companion rescue. See the basics of avalanches and avalanche rescue.
- Navigation, with map, compass and GPS, often in whiteout.
- Rope work, for steeper ground and glacier travel. See the basics of glacier travel.
- Emergency shelter, such as using a bothy bag.
A winter skills course with a qualified guide is the best way to learn.
Winter clothing and gear
| Layer or item | What to use |
|---|---|
| Base layer | Merino or synthetic, moisture-wicking |
| Mid layer | Fleece or light synthetic insulation |
| Insulated jacket | Down or synthetic belay jacket |
| Shell | Waterproof, windproof jacket and trousers |
| Hands | Liner gloves, warm gloves and mitts, plus spares |
| Head | Warm hat, buff or balaclava, goggles |
| Feet | Warm, stiff boots rated B2–B3, with good socks and gaiters |
| Technical | Ice axe, crampons, helmet, harness if needed |
| Safety | Headtorch with spare batteries, bothy bag, first aid, avalanche transceiver, probe and shovel where relevant |
Read our guide to the best mountaineering boots for different altitudes.
How to prepare for winter climbing
- Build fitness with hill walking, stair climbing and strength training.
- Train in the cold. Test your layers on cold training days so you know how to manage them.
- Eat and drink more. Cold and effort increase energy needs. Carry snacks that do not freeze hard and use an insulated bottle.
- Start early. Winter days are short. Plan to finish before dark and carry a headtorch.
- Check forecasts. Look at mountain weather and avalanche forecasts the day before and the morning of your climb.
- Have a turnaround time, and stick to it.
A short history of winter climbing on the highest peaks
Winter climbing on the 8,000 m peaks was pioneered by Polish climbers, often called the "Ice Warriors". After Wielicki and Cichy's winter ascent of Everest in 1980, Polish teams made the first winter ascents of several more 8,000 m peaks during the 1980s, with climbers such as Jerzy Kukuczka and Krzysztof Wielicki leading the way.
The final winter problems took decades. Nanga Parbat was first climbed in winter in February 2016 by Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara. K2, the hardest of all, finally fell in January 2021 to a team of 10 Nepali climbers, including Nirmal Purja and Mingma G, who walked the final steps to the summit together. These ascents show both how hard winter climbing is at altitude and how much experience it requires.
You do not need to attempt a winter 8,000er to enjoy winter climbing. But the same principles apply on any winter mountain: preparation, patience and a willingness to turn back.
What is Scottish winter climbing?
Scotland is one of the most famous places in the world for winter climbing, despite its modest heights. Mountains like Ben Nevis and the Cairngorms see Atlantic storms, freeze-thaw cycles and rime ice, creating classic gully, ridge and mixed routes. Scottish winter routes use a two-part grade, such as IV,5, that describes the overall seriousness and the hardest technical moves. Many climbers who later succeed in the Alps and Himalaya learn their skills in Scotland. See our guide to climbing grades for more.
A typical winter climbing day
Winter days start early, often in the dark, to make the most of the short daylight. You approach on foot, sometimes on snowshoes or skis, and put on crampons when the ground becomes icy. On technical routes, you rope up and climb in pitches, belaying each other from secure anchors. On snow slopes, you move steadily with your ice axe ready to self-arrest. Breaks are short to avoid getting cold. Most teams aim to be off the hill before dark, but every winter climber should carry a headtorch, because delays are common.
Climbing with a guide
For your first winter climbs, a qualified mountain guide is the safest way to learn. IFMGA guides, and national guides in each country, are trained to assess avalanche risk, choose routes and teach skills. Many guides run winter skills courses that cover crampon and ice axe technique, self-arrest, navigation and avalanche awareness in a few days. Read more about IFMGA guides and why to hire one.
The best mountains to climb in winter
| Mountain | Why climb it in winter | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
| Ben Nevis, Scotland | Classic winter routes and gullies; famous for Scottish winter climbing | Moderate to very hard |
| Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa), Wales | Accessible winter hillwalking and scrambling | Moderate |
| Mont Blanc massif, France and Italy | Winter ski touring and ice; serious conditions | Hard |
| Toubkal, Morocco | Snowy winter ascent of North Africa's highest peak; ice axe and crampons usually needed | Moderate |
| Kilimanjaro, Tanzania | Can be climbed year-round; cold at the summit | Moderate (non-technical) |
| Aconcagua, Argentina | Normal season is the southern summer (Nov–Mar); winter ascents are rare and very serious | Very hard in winter |
| Elbrus, Russia | Extremely cold and windy in winter | Hard in winter |
Toubkal is a popular first winter objective. Many guides run winter ascents with ice axe and crampon training included. Kilimanjaro can be climbed in any month, while Denali, Aconcagua and Elbrus are rarely climbed in their winters.
Why not just wait for summer?
Summer is easier, but winter teaches what summer cannot. Climbers who learn their skills in winter are usually better prepared for the snow, ice and cold found on big peaks in any season. If you want to climb high, winter climbing is one of the best investments you can make.
Avalanches in winter
Avalanche risk is one of the biggest hazards in winter climbing. Snow falls and is blown by wind into slopes and gullies, where it can form unstable layers. Before a winter climb, check the local avalanche forecast, learn to recognise wind-loaded slopes and cornices, and carry and practise with an avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe where appropriate. A course in avalanche awareness is one of the best investments a winter climber can make. Read our guide to the basics of avalanches and avalanche rescue.
Short days and planning
In winter, daylight is limited, especially at higher latitudes. In Scotland, for example, there may be only around seven hours of daylight in midwinter. Start early, often in the dark, know your turnaround time, and carry a headlamp with spare batteries. Plan routes with a clear descent, and be ready to retreat if you are behind schedule. Many winter epics happen because a team is still climbing when darkness falls.
Food and water in the cold
Staying fuelled and hydrated is harder in winter. Water bottles freeze, and the cold reduces your thirst, while your body uses more energy to stay warm. Carry a vacuum flask with a hot drink, keep water bottles insulated or inside your pack, and pack snacks that will not freeze solid. Eat little and often to keep your energy and warmth up through the day.
Winter climbing grades
Winter climbs often have their own grades. The Scottish winter system, for example, uses a two-part grade in Roman and Arabic numerals, describing overall seriousness and the hardest technical moves. Ice climbs are graded with water ice (WI) grades, and mixed routes with M grades. See mountaineering climbing grades.
Frequently asked questions
What is winter climbing?
Climbing mountains in winter conditions using ice axes and crampons, from winter hillwalking to technical ice and mixed climbing.
What is a winter ascent?
On high peaks, an ascent during the calendar winter, from about 21 December to 20 March in the Northern Hemisphere.
Is winter climbing dangerous?
It is more serious than summer climbing because of cold, avalanches, short days and storms. Training, good gear and a guide reduce the risk.
What do I need for winter mountaineering?
Warm layers, a waterproof shell, mitts, goggles, B2–B3 boots, crampons, an ice axe, a helmet, a headtorch and avalanche gear where relevant.
When was Everest first climbed in winter?
On 17 February 1980, by Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy.
When was K2 first climbed in winter?
On 16 January 2021, by a team of 10 Nepali climbers.
Where should I start winter climbing?
A winter skills course in Scotland, Wales, the Alps or on Toubkal is a good start.
How do I stay warm on a winter climb?
Layer properly, eat and drink regularly, keep your hands and feet dry, and carry a warm belay jacket for stops.
What is the difference between snow climbing and ice climbing?
Snow climbing means ascending snow slopes with crampons and an ice axe, usually at moderate angles. Ice climbing means climbing steep or vertical ice with two ice tools, crampons and ice screws for protection.
Can beginners do winter mountaineering?
Yes, with a guided winter skills course first. Start on non-technical winter hills, build experience over several seasons, and only move to harder objectives once you are confident with crampons, self-arrest and avalanche awareness.
Who was first to climb Nanga Parbat in winter?
Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Muhammad Ali Sadpara, in February 2016.
Do I need avalanche gear for winter climbing?
Often yes. Check the local avalanche forecast and carry a transceiver, shovel and probe where avalanches are a risk, and learn to use them on a course.
How do you keep water from freezing on a winter climb?
Carry a vacuum flask with a hot drink and keep bottles insulated or inside your pack, upside down so the lid does not freeze shut.
How many hours of daylight do you get for winter climbing?
It depends on latitude. In the Scottish Highlands in midwinter there are only around seven hours, so climbers often start and finish in the dark.
Tags: winter-climbing, cold-training, layering, ice-climbing, denali