The 10 Don'ts of Mountaineering: Expedition Mistakes to Avoid, from a Himalayan and Karakoram Guide

By Blake Penson · Updated 2026-10-24

Blake Penson has climbed Everest twice and has 20 years in the mountains.

The most common mistakes on a mountaineering expedition are not dramatic: talking yourself out of going, packing gear that is too light to do its job, overestimating how much you can carry, skipping meals, rushing acclimatisation, fixating on the summit, freezing at a short hard section, rushing home afterwards and giving up on a problem before you have looked at it closely. That is the advice of Ed "Iggy" Hannam, a lead guide at Feeding the Rat Expeditions, who has spent more than 20 years climbing in Japan, Tibet and Central Asia, including on K2. Alongside his list, every climber should follow a few non-negotiable safety rules: respect turnaround times, never ignore symptoms of altitude illness, check the weather and conditions, and travel roped on glaciers. Hannam shared his list with ExpedReview in 2022; his quotes below are from that interview. Use them alongside our guides to skills to learn before a mountaineering trip and how to train for mountaineering.

The 10 don'ts at a glance

#	Don't	Why it matters
1	Talk yourself out of going	Most of an expedition is doable with preparation
2	Under-pack	Ultralight gear that fails ends trips
3	Underestimate the difficulty	Plan for about two-thirds of what you think you can carry
4	Forget the journey	The culture and approach are part of the climb
5	Skip meals	You cannot catch up on calories at altitude
6	Skip acclimatisation days	Rushing causes altitude sickness
7	Forget to enjoy it	Tunnel vision spoils the experience
8	Get stuck in a climbing rut	Short hard sections can be overcome
9	Race home after the summit	The descent and walk-out are part of the trip
10	Turn around before you have to	Assess problems up close, within safe limits

Who is Ed "Iggy" Hannam?

Ed "Iggy" Hannam is one of the lead guides behind Feeding the Rat Expeditions, which runs climbs in remote ranges of Asia. With more than 20 years of climbing in Japan, Tibet (China) and Central Asia, he has seen what helps and what hurts climbers on expeditions. When a well-known outdoor magazine asked him for a "Top 10 Mountaineering Tips" article, he suggested a list of things not to do instead. The magazine said no, but we liked the idea.

1. Don't talk yourself out of going

Many people never go on an expedition because they focus on the hardest parts and talk themselves out of it. Hannam points out that most of an expedition is made up of things that may not be easy but are entirely doable, and only a small part pushes you far outside your comfort zone.

"So rather than talk yourself out of the small bit of hard climbing, talk yourself into the rest that is fathomable, trainable and fun," Hannam said. "Every day we hear people say stuff like 'one day' and 'it must be amazing to do that' about things people just like them do regularly. The difference is those that do it decide they can."

The practical step is to break a big goal into smaller ones: a skills course, a first glaciated peak, a first trip to altitude. See a beginner's guide to mountaineering.

2. Don't under-pack

Most tips articles tell you to pack light. Hannam warns that it is possible to go too light. You should leave behind unnecessary items, such as cotton clothing, but gear must still be fit for purpose.

"Going light doesn't need discussion but going too light does," Hannam said. "Gear still needs to be fit for purpose, and we've seen so many people have to change their plans after super-light gear failed to do what something 100 grams heavier would."

On high-altitude expeditions, that means warm enough gloves, sleeping bags and layers. "An extra kilogram combined across your sleeping bag, gloves, shell jacket and eating gear will be easily worth it for the performance it enhances and condition it leaves you in," he added. See the Denali gear list and the Aconcagua gear list.

3. Don't underestimate the expedition's difficulty

Self-belief is important, but Hannam warns against overestimating what you can do. Everything is easier when you train at sea level than when you are at altitude.

"From your living room, it's easy to think you will be able to carry 30-kilogram (65-lb) loads between camps, but that's an anomaly, not the standard you can plan around," he said. "Factor for about two-thirds of what you think you can and take anything higher as a bonus. Doing it one day doesn't mean you can do it the next, so accept that."

Build margin into your plans: lighter loads, spare days and realistic daily goals.

4. Don't forget the journey is the destination

Mountaineering is about the whole process of reaching a summit, not just the top. Hannam says climbers sometimes miss the experience of the places they travel through.

"Don't be the climber who never learns a single word in the local language, never visits the local markets, never takes local transport, never interacts with local people, never even flips on the local TV station, never steps outside of the climbing bubble," he said. Otherwise, he warned, "don't go home and think you know anything about the place you just visited."

5. Don't skip meals

Appetite and taste fade at altitude, while your body burns a lot of energy climbing, staying warm and adapting to thin air. Missing meals leaves you weaker and colder.

"Eat as normally as possible because above a certain altitude, you won't be able to replace what you miss, and it's downhill from there," Hannam said. "Even if it's just a bar or a mouthful of granola, get carbohydrates into your system at regular intervals."

The UIAA, the international mountaineering federation, recommends taking food that is palatable, satisfying and easy to prepare at altitude. Bring snacks you genuinely enjoy, eat little and often on the move, and drink plenty of fluids.

6. Don't skip acclimatisation days

Acclimatisation is essential. Common guidance for altitudes above about 3,000 m is to increase your sleeping altitude by no more than about 300 to 500 m a night, with a rest day every three or four days, and to "climb high, sleep low". Skipping these steps is one of the most common causes of acute mountain sickness.

"Everyone's done it, thinking the rules don't apply to them and that getting in a day faster will be better," Hannam said. "And plenty of people have had wretched nights in their tents in the self-induced hell of being unacclimated."

"Altitude gets all people at some point, and the way to normalise it is simply to go easy," he added. "Chill out, go easy and aim to sleep higher each night." See what is acute mountain sickness.

7. Don't forget to enjoy the experience

Climbers often develop tunnel vision on an expedition, focusing only on the summit. Hannam says that means missing the moments that make expeditions memorable.

"A lot of expedition climbing is fun, but it's easy to forget that," he said. "Enjoy the sunrises over Central Asia, the sound of the camels before dawn, the fact you are in places 99.9 percent of the world will never see. Don't act like this has been forced on you."

8. Don't get stuck in a climbing rut

Expeditions throw up unexpected obstacles. Hannam has seen climbers ready to give up at a short, hard section because it was outside their usual style.

"Don't let your personal climbing limitations limit the climbing," he said. "Several times, we've seen climbers ready to throw in the towel at a section of blank wall just because they couldn't get their minds around aiding a few meters on pitons."

The answer is preparation: learn a range of techniques, including fixed-rope work, aid climbing basics and moving on mixed ground, so you are not stopped by a short section. See mountaineering climbing grades.

9. Don't race straight home after the summit

The summit is not the end of the trip. Hannam encourages climbers to build in spare time at the end to enjoy the descent and the walk-out.

"Once the turnaround comes, don't flee for the exits like it's a bomb drill," he said. "The post-climbing phase is where you get the chance to relax. Sleep a bit more. Sit and watch the things you couldn't on the way in."

There is a safety reason too. Many accidents happen on the descent, when climbers are tired and focused on getting home. Stay alert until you are off the mountain.

10. Don't turn around before you have to

Weather, illness and conditions can end an expedition, so it is important to make the most of good weather and keep going while it is safe to do so.

"Don't decide it's impossible from 500 metres away," Hannam said. "Get yourselves within striking distance of a problem before deciding if it's surmountable or not. When it stops moving forward, rethink, but not before. Many seemingly impossible problems were found upon closer inspection to be doable."

This is about not giving up on a route before you have looked at it properly. It is not a reason to ignore safety. Turnaround times, weather, avalanche conditions and altitude illness should always override summit ambitions.

Bonus: Don't take the expedition too seriously

Hannam's final piece of advice: keep perspective.

"It's climbing, not curing bone cancer, and it's not worth dying for," he said. "Routes will work, or they won't. Weather will co-operate, or it won't. There will be good days and bad. Learn to look at yourself from the outside and realise that it's just people climbing mountains. That's all."

The safety rules that always apply

Hannam's list focuses on mindset and expedition habits. Alongside it, these rules apply to every climb:

• Respect your turnaround time. Set one before summit day and stick to it.
• Never ignore altitude illness. Worsening headache, confusion, loss of coordination or breathlessness at rest mean descend now.
• Check the forecast and conditions, including avalanche bulletins and recent reports.
• Rope up on glaciers. Crevasses are often hidden. See glacier travel.
• Tell someone your plan and carry a way to call for help.
• Get the right insurance, including rescue and evacuation.
• Choose experienced guides if you do not have the skills to climb independently. See why hire an IFMGA guide.

Don'ts closer to home

Many accidents happen on popular, lower hills, where people underestimate the mountains. On Scafell Pike, England's highest mountain, and on hills such as Ben Lomond in Scotland, mountain rescue teams are often called to walkers who are lost in cloud, injured on the descent or caught out by darkness. Broad Stand, a short rock step between Scafell and Scafell Pike, looks like a shortcut but is a notorious accident blackspot; walkers should take the longer, safer paths around it. Do not rely on a phone map alone, carry warm layers and a headtorch even in summer, and turn back if the weather closes in.

How to put the list into practice

Turn the don'ts into a pre-trip checklist. Before you book, be honest about your experience and pick a peak that suits it. In the months before, train with a loaded pack on hills, practise with every piece of gear you will use, and test your clothing and sleeping system in cold conditions. Plan acclimatisation days and spare weather days into the itinerary rather than hoping you will not need them. Agree on turnaround times and decision rules with your team before you leave. On the trip, eat and drink regularly, check in with yourself and your partners about how you feel, and take time to enjoy where you are. Afterwards, write down what worked and what did not, so the next expedition is better.

Frequently asked questions

What should you not do when mountaineering?

Don't rush acclimatisation, skip meals, pack gear that is too light, overestimate how much you can carry, ignore turnaround times or ignore symptoms of altitude illness.

What are the basic rules of mountaineering?

Acclimatise gradually, check the weather and conditions, respect turnaround times, rope up on glaciers, carry the right gear and know when to turn back.

What is the most common mistake on expeditions?

Rushing acclimatisation is one of the most common and dangerous mistakes. Overestimating loads and packing too light are also common.

How much weight should I plan to carry on an expedition?

Hannam suggests planning for about two-thirds of what you think you can carry and treating anything more as a bonus.

Why is eating important at altitude?

Appetite falls at altitude but your body needs energy to climb, stay warm and adapt. Eat little and often.

When should you turn back on a mountain?

When you reach your turnaround time, when weather or conditions become dangerous, or when you or a team member show signs of altitude illness.

Who is Ed "Iggy" Hannam?

A lead guide at Feeding the Rat Expeditions with more than 20 years of climbing in Japan, Tibet and Central Asia.