For the first time in decades and with a significantly developed approach this obscure peak can be accessed as an ideal bridge between 7000 and 8000m climbing in a true high altitude wilderness. With Huang Guan Shan there’s an overlap of genuine expedition climbing on a timeline that makes it more doable. For climbers wanting an insight into Karakorum north side style – something leading towards the china sides of k2, g1 and broad peak and other oxygen-less ascents – this is it.
Sitting back from the China-Pakistan border, Huang Guan Shan is a close neighbour of k2 but shielded slightly by being totally within the Karakorum rain shadow. Accessed along the same route as k2 for the most part Huang Guan Shan has several possible aspects from river valleys either side, with the southern faces being the objectives of previous ascents.
Trips to Huang Guan Shan require a 5-6 week schedule that gives around 3 weeks mountain time and makes it an excellent first trip for climbers experimenting with ascents minus supplementary oxygen.
*note this is not the other Huang Guan Shan, the 6000m peak located in eastern tibet.
Itinerary
Day 1 - Chengdu
Days 2-15 - Preacclimation in western Sichuan
Days 15-16 - Transit to Xinjian
Days 17-21 - Approach
Days 21-22 - The crown basecamp
Days 23-28 - Huang Guan Shan glacier
Days 29 - 45 - Climbing
Days 46 - 50 - Return Kashgar
Day 51 - Fly out
