An ascent of the highly-coveted 'Matterhorn of the Himalaya'
Introduction
Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalaya. Situated in the heart of Everest's Khumbu Region, it lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp. The SW Ridge is like a long Alpine Difficile, but at over 6,000m. It is a beautiful route, on mainly good rock, with sections of mixed climbing and a snowy finale. We go in the late autumn season/early winter, when there are fewer people on the mountain and the weather is typically cold but stable. The expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally-led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient, capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. Join us on Ama Dablam
- UK expedition leader, supported by Jagged Globe Sherpas (the same Sherpas we employ on Everest).
- Late autumn/early winter climb when the mountain is quieter (there is only space for 4 or 5 tents at Camp 2).
- Cold but stable weather in November/December.
Experience Required
Although ropes are fixed the whole way to the summit, you need to be able to climb steep rock and hard water ice unsupervised, carrying a big pack. You need to be psychologically prepared for living high on a precipitous mountain in cold conditions. The route is extremely exposed in places, where a small mistake or fall could be fatal.
Day 1 – 2: Fly to Kathmandu
Day 3: Fly to Lukla Early morning fixed-wing (such as a Twin Otter, Dornier 228 or similar) flight to Lukla (2,840m), the gateway to the Khumbu Valley. Trek to Monjo. Overnight lodge.
Day 4 – 8: Walk to Pangboche via Namche Bazaar You have five days to slowly walk to Pangboche (4,000m), which is the village nearest to base camp. The trek takes you through Namche Bazaar and Thyangboche, with its famous monastery. The team may choose to trek beyond Pangboche to Pheriche (4,300m), or alternatively, to base themselves at Pangboche for a couple of nights and trek to c4,300m above the village before moving to base camp.
Day 9: Move to Base Camp (4,570m) It is a 3.5 hour walk to base camp from Pangboche. Base camp is a large open grassy area, where you will be accommodated in twin-sharing tents.
Day: Organise food and fixed rope practice You will have a couple of days to get organised. There will be a fixed rope session and the team will walk to 5,000m on the ridge above base camp.
Day: Acclimatisation to Camp 2 (5,900m) En route to the summit you will utilise camps at 5,300m (ABC), 5,700m (Camp 1), 5,900m (Camp 2) and 6,300m (Camp 3). Most climbers choose to climb as far as Camp 2 as part of their acclimatisation, prior to a summit attempt. Initially, you will walk to ABC, sleep there, then carry a light load to Camp 1 before returning to BC. On your second rotation you will sleep at Camp 1, with the aim of climbing along the ridge to Camp 2. Some teams have a final rotation, where they sleep at Camp 2.
Day: Summit push The route from BC to ABC is simple walking, unless there is ice and snow on the scree. ABC is located on a large plateau and not all teams use this, as water needs to be portered to it. The height gain from BC to Camp 1 is nearly 1,200m, so it is a good idea to split this initially by using an ABC. Above ABC is the infamous talus field, which must be traversed to reach the fixed ropes that lead up slabs to Camp 1. Camp 1 to Camp 2 is typically 70% on rock in dryish conditions, with sections of British Grade ‘Severe’. It culminates in a 15m vertical section to reach the top of the ‘Yellow Tower’, just short of Camp 2 (this is normally jumared, using a foot loop). Camp 2 to Camp 3 is mixed rock, snow and ice, which is loose in places, with the hardest part being below the Grey Tower. Above Camp 3 snow and ice on the summit slopes is as steep as 50°.
Day: Return trek to Lukla
Day 29: Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 30: At leisure in Kathmandu
Day 31: Depart Kathmandu
- Economy class return airfares from the UK (unless Land Only).
- UK airport taxes.
- One in-country, return flight between Ramechhap and Lukla by scheduled, fixed-wing aircraft.
- Return transfers between Kathmandu airport and the hotel (one on arrival and one on departure of your international flight).
- Return transfers between the hotel and Ramechhap Airport.
- 3 nights' bed and breakfast accommodation at the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu on a twin-sharing basis.
- 9 nights' full-board lodge ("Tea House") acccomodation on the trek to/from base camp.
- 17 nights' full board accommodation in tents on the mountain (single tents in base camp).
- All porterage costs.
- All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers..
- Jagged Globe kitbag or Fleece top.
- Visa fees.
- Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket.
- Any costs associated with you leaving the expedition early or spending additional nights in the valley in lodges, whilst the expedition is resident in base camp.
- Any costs associated with arriving back in Kathmandu early, for example, having climbed the mountain ahead of schedule.
- Bar bills and laundry.
- Travel insurance.
- Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu.
- Optional trips and sightseeing tours.
- Tips.
- $7,967 - $8,996
- October, November, December 31 Days
- Mountaineering
- $7,967 - $8,996
- October, November, December 31 Days
- Mountaineering
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