Andes Peru & Bolivia · climb
Huascarán guides
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About Huascarán
- Elevation
- 6,768 m (22,205 ft)
- Country
- Peru
Climbing history
First ascent of the higher South Summit (6,768m) by a German-Austrian expedition in 1932. Located in the Cordillera Blanca, the world's highest tropical mountain range. The 1970 earthquake triggered an avalanche that buried the town of Yungay, killing 20,000 people.
Notable itineraries
Normal Route/Garganta Col (5-7 days): Standard route via the col between North and South summits. Direct Route to South Summit (5-7 days): More direct but steeper approach. Shield Route: Technical climbing on the west face. Huascarán Norte (5-6 days): Slightly lower North Summit, good acclimatization.
Currency
Peruvian Sol (PEN) is the official currency. USD widely accepted in Huaraz. ATMs available in Huaraz. National park entrance fee required. Budget $30-50/day for food and lodging in Huaraz. Guided expeditions $800-1,500.
Languages
Official: Spanish. Regional: Quechua widely spoken in mountain communities, especially among porters and arrieros (mule drivers). English spoken by guides and in tourist areas of Huaraz. Useful: "Hola" (hello), "Gracias" (thank you).
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Recommended gear for Huascarán
Technical essentials picked for glaciated mountaineering. Recommended by our expert team.
- La Sportiva G2 Evo Mountaineering Boots (double boots): View at CampSaver
- Petzl Sarken Crampons (Leverlock Universel) (crampons): View at CampSaver
- Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe (ice axe): View at Black Diamond
- Black Diamond Couloir Harness (harness): View at Black Diamond
- Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet (helmet): View at Black Diamond
- Global Rescue membership (rescue and evacuation): View at Global Rescue
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