Brief Description

Situated in the middle of the iconic trio of mountains also composed of Jungfrau and Eiger, Mönch is a popular climbing destination for novice mountaineers in south-central Switzerland.

Rising to 4,107 metres (13,474 feet) in elevation, the peak is the second-highest in the trio, which rises up over the Bernese Oberland and Swiss Plateau. Many guides recommend Mönch to inexperienced climbers looking for their first high-altitude experience.

Most trips up Mönch begin from the Jungfraujoch station, the same starting point as Eiger, which sits a bit more than a kilometre (about a half-mile) north of the mountain. As a result, many mountaineers will take two or three days to climb Eiger and then Mönch.

Quick Facts about Mönch

Of the trio of peaks – known as the Berner Trilogy – Mönch is the one that is most frequently climbed.
Due to the crest of firn snow (a layer of snow that is more than one year old and has survived an ablation period), the exact height of Mönch has varied by 3 metres (9.8 feet) over the past 20 years.
While Mönch is the German word for “monk”, the peak was actually named after the Münche – geldings – that were taken to graze in the pastures below the peak each summer.

History of Mönch

The first successful ascent of Mönch was accomplished on August 15, 1857, by a team of Swiss mountaineers, led by local guide Cristian Almer. The following year, Almer would also be part of the team to successfully climb Eiger for the first time as well.

Experience Required for Climbing Mönch

In terms of technical ability required to reach the summit, Mönch is a fairly easy mountain to climb. Mountaineers will need to know basic crampon and ice axe techniques. There is also some fourth class rock scrambling involved toward the summit.

While the ascent only takes one day, many guides offer weekend-long courses in which all the necessary skills are taught and the peak is climbed at the end of the course.

In spite of the lack of technical difficulty, a high level of physical fitness is required to summit the peak. Climbers will need to be able to ascend up rock and snow over exposed ridges for several consecutive hours with few places to rest.

Main Routes up Mönch

There are three main routes that lead up to the summit of Mönch along with several minor routes, most of which are used by professionals and not commercial guides.

The Southeast Ridge Route (Class II) is the most popular one and begins from the Jungfraujoch station. From here, climbers will approach the peak from the north, skirting around to the eastern side of the mountain to the Mönchsjoch Hut, before scrambling up the first half of the ridge. When the rock transitions to snow, climbers will get out their crampons and ice axes and continue to ascend until reaching the top of the ridge. From here, climbers can walk on to the summit.

The other two main routes are the Southwest Ridge Route, which is rated as Class III, and Nollen Route, which is rated as Class IV+/V-. The former begins from the same spot as the Southeast Rdige Route and heads up the opposite ridge line, while the latter begins from the Guggi Hut, on the western side of the mountain.

Mönch

Summit the most climbed of the famed Berner Trilogy in Switzerland.