Dhaulagiri Overview

Towering above the Gandaki river basin, Dhaulagiri casts an imposing shadow over central Nepal.

At 8,167 metres (26,795 feet) in elevation, it is the seventh highest mountain in the world and the tallest peak to be located completely within a single country.

The peak is also the highest point on the Dhaulagiri massif, which stretches northwest for 120 kilometres (70 miles) and also includes 12 other mountains that reach 7,000 metres (23,000 feet) or more in elevation.

Ascents of Dhaulagiri generally begin from the northeast flank of the mountain and descend through the opposite valley.

While Dhaulagiri is one of the most accessible 8,000ers to climb and is often used as a training ground for mountaineers heading on to Everest, its base camp is also a popular trekking destination. Most visitors to the peak arrive on a trek, coming via one of two different routes that lead from Jomsom.

Quick Facts about Dhaulagiri

While Dhauliagiri’s prominence is officially listed as 3,357 metres (11,014 feet) – making it the 55th most prominent mountain in the world – the peak rises 7,000 metres (23,000 feet) above the nearby Kali Gandaki River. Its south and west faces rise 4,000 metres (13,120 feet) above the valley below.
Dhaulagiri gets its name from the Sanskrit word, Dhavali giri, meaning dazzling, white or beautiful mountain.
The first ascent of Dhaulagiri was done with the support of a fixed wing aircraft, making it the first such expedition to do so. However, the aircraft crashed in the Hidden Valley during the climb and was abandoned.

History of Dhaulagiri

When Dhaulagiri was first surveyed in 1808, it was established as the highest mountain yet measured. This lasted until 1838 when Kangchenjunga was determined to be taller.

The first attempt to climb the peak took place in 1950, when a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog explored the base of the peak, but did not find a feasible route uopand instead opted to climb near Annapurna.

Over the course of the next decade, a series of attempts would be made to climb the peak via the pear buttress, but none would succeed. A combination of technical difficulty and challenging climatic conditions would turn most expeditions back.

The first successful ascent of the peak finally happened on 13 May 1960, when Swiss-Austrian expedition led by Max Eiselin made it to the summit via the northeast ridge.

Experience Required for Climbing Dhaulagiri

Successfully climbing Dhaulagiri requires both a high level of technical ability as well as a very high level of physical fitness. However, it is widely considered to be one of the more attainable 8,000ers.

Most of the ascent involves a mix of rock, snow and ice climbing up a very steep grade on fixed ropes. This means the danger of avalanches is ever-present.

Prior to starting out on the trip, most guides recommend spending at least six months preparing physically – improving endurance, strength and flexibility. The ascent is steep with few places to rest along the way, so it is important that climbers can ascend for consecutive hours while hauling some gear.

Main Routes up Dhaulagiri

The northeast route is the main route taken to the summit of Dhaulagiri. While professionals climb the mountain via other routes, the northeast route is exclusively used by commercially guided expeditions.

The climb begins from base camp with a hike through the lower Dhaulagiri ice fall. This leads to a small rock formation named the Eiger (which resembles the famous one in Switzerland).

After making the multi-pitch ascent of the Eiger, climbers continue on and ascend the Dhaulagiri Glacier until arriving at a flat bit underneath a series of seracs. After traversing the seracs, climbers arrive at the northeast ridge and can follow this on to the summit.r more information.

Dhaulariri with Asian Trekking

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