Kangchenjunga & Makalu · climb

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About Makalu

Elevation
8,481 m (27,825 ft)
Country
Nepal

Climbing history

First ascent on May 15, 1955 by French expedition led by Jean Franco. At 8,485m, the fifth highest peak in the world. Known for its perfect pyramid shape and technical difficulty. Fewer than 400 successful ascents.

Notable itineraries

Makalu Base Camp Trek (18-22 days): Challenging trek through Arun Valley to base camp at 4,870m. Sherpani Col Trek: Technical mountaineering route crossing high passes to Everest region. Normal Route (climbers): Northwest ridge requiring advanced skills. West Face: Technical climbing route.

Weather and best time to go

Weather: During the climbing season, temperatures are generally warm in the valley on the approach to Makalu. Temperatures then drop rapidly as elevation is gained and are well below freezing at the summit. The spring climbing season generally means there is more snow on the mountain. Toward the end of the autumn climbing season, temperatures are the coldest., Best Time to Visit: April to May, September to October, Average Expedition Length 50 to 60 days

Currency

Nepalese Rupee (NPR) is the official currency. Very remote region with limited facilities. Combination of teahouse and camping required. Restricted area permits needed. Budget $3,500-5,000 for organized trek.

Languages

Official: Nepali. Regional: Rai, Sherpa languages in different valleys. The Arun Valley is home to diverse ethnic communities. English limited to guide staff. Rich biodiversity with rare wildlife.

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High-altitude essentials picked for 8,000m expeditions. Recommended by our expert team.

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