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3.4/ 5 1 Rating
$ 20,000.00
Ronny 1 Reviews
Mixed bag despite summit
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3.4

Tim is a seasoned mountaineer and has been around the Nepalese hills for many years. I joined him for Lhotse (my first 8000er), another Lhotse climber and a group of Everest climbers - his overall largest group yet. Both guide and base camp infrastructure appeared stretched by the numbers and requirement to coordinate two different summits as well as stronger & weaker climbers. Looking back, I feel there were significant safety risks that could have been avoided and consequently would not recommend to climb with this outfit despite making the summit (and back). I summarise key points below. Detailed blog on www.rocketontour.com/Lhotse. Some stuff I liked ... - The extended trek into base camp was enjoyable and helped acclimatisation - The preparation re medical self-help on the hill was well prepared - His team selection was decent in our case ie. I felt we had on average more qualified climbers in our team than other teams - Camp facilities were decent (for the price) and food sufficient though there is room to improve quality Some of things I didn't like ... - Get used to not getting straight answers, even for the smallest of things. It was upsetting for literally all members of the expedition. I found more answers during a conversation with a neighbouring, Nepali run expedition team. on the flip side, expect disparaging remarks about Nepali government, other teams, etc. - Guide prioritised his own (early) Everest summit over client interests leaving us stranded without comms, weather updates (base camp was dysfunctional while he was on summit bid) and with a guide that post summit needed recovery first (plus wasted his one-time license ruling out another bid with clients) - Guide never actually summited Lhotse so can't tell much about conditions above camp 4 other than what you can read online. The sherpa I had likewise never submitted Lhotse and at one Everest summit was the most junior available (see next point for priorities) - Lhotse summit was completely secondary to Everest efforts. I would have missed my summit bid if it wasn't for other climbers going up. Tim missed to spot the Lhotse window having just Everest in mind. - Corners cut on weather forecasts. All borrowed (or listened in on their radio chatter) from other teams which was suboptimal when higher on the mountain. Communication was poor to non existent in Lhotse camp 4 meaning we left for summit bid with uncertain / outdated info. Happened to me and the other Lhotse climber. - Better not get checked! Plenty of expedition gear undeclared to authorities (to avoid fees) such as radios, SAT phone, etc. - No client radio, just for sherpa. Not great as my sherpa was taken away from me, against agreed terms re sherpa support, and diverted to other tasks. Left me in a critical position coming down from C4 to C2 - my guide was unaware of my problems until I told him in base camp 2 days later.

Lhotse

Adventure Consultants

High Altitude Expedtions

56  Days

$ 41,500.00

Mt. Lhotse

Asiana Nepal Treks & Expedition

Fixed Departure, Group Join and Permit join Expedition, trekking, peak climbing

50  Days

$ 16,999.00 - $ 20,500.00

Mount Lhotse Expedition

Everest Expeditions Nepal Pvt. Ltd.

Everest Expeditions Nepal, Mount Everest Expedition 2020, Expedition in Nepal, Mount Manaslu Expedition, Amadablam Expedition

1 – 50 Days

$ 18,000.00 - $ 23,000.00
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