Join us on this journey to Canada’s highest peak, Mt. Logan at 5,959 meters. Canada West Mountain School has been leading ski mountaineering expeditions up the Kings Trench for over 15 years, one of the classic routes of North Americas high mountain ranges. Mount Logan is the 2nd highest mountain in North America, and is often compared to Alaska’s Denali (Mt McKinley) as “a more spectacular mountain without the crowds”. Unlike most trips on Denali, though, our Logan expeditions are ski-based to allow for quicker travel and enjoyable descents!
The Kings Trench route on Logan is an isolated and adventurous path for ski mountaineers to the highest summit in Canada and 2nd highest in North America. This route is similar in nature to most of the West Buttress route on Denali, with the exception of the fixed ropes section on Denali – no fixed ropes or steep climbing are encountered on the Kings Trench route. Unlike Denali, the Kings Trench route on Logan is also a great ski mountaineering objective!
This once-in-a-lifetime trip starts with a 1-hour flight through some of the highest, most remote mountains in North America. After landing at approximately 2,800 meters at the lower end of the “Kings Trench”, we will set our base camp on the Quintino Sella Glacier. From there we spend 5-6 days making our way on skis up the glaciers to establish an Advanced Base Camp at the 4,000 meter col between the Logan Massif and King Peak. After this point, in order to continue acclimatising well, we will take a rest day before staging our carries over the next few days onto the upper mountain. Our final camp will be at approximately 5,500 meters in preparation for the summit attempt. After the summit, our descent back down our route will take a quick two days. A climb up (and ski run down) to be remembered!
Due to the need to acclimatise on a mountain of this nature, the elevation gain between camps is only 600-700 meters every 2-days. This allows for a slower pace, though participants should be in excellent physical condition and be prepared for extreme weather conditions and altitude.
The Mount Logan Kings Trench trip departs from Whitehorse, in the Yukon Territory of Canada.
The team will meet on the morning of Day-1 (May 12th, 2018) in Whitehorse and go over final details and equipment checks before heading to the Kluane Lake staging area for the flight onto Logan. Participants are responsible for getting themselves to (and from) Whitehorse and all accommodation and meals while in Whitehorse. We recommend that participants plan to arrive in Whitehorse on the evening of Friday, May 11th.
All air and ground transportation, food, permits, Guiding services and group equipment is supplied after departing Whitehorse on May 12th.
Please note that the flight onto Mount Logan is contingent on safe flying and weather conditions. Due to the nature of the mountain region of the St. Elias ranges, inclement weather can delay flights for periods of up to two weeks, or longer.
In the event of weather delays, the team will plan on camping while based at the airstrip on Kluane Lake. There are limited facilities and amenities at this location so participants should prepare for possible extended stay of camping. A small number of hotels and B&B’s may have available accommodation as an option for those who are interested, though due to the last-minute nature of these delays, we cannot guarantee availability. Occasionally, it may be best to stay in Whitehorse before even heading out to Kluane Lake, if the weather forecasts indicates a long period of poor weather that will delay the flights for more than 1-2 days.
Any extra costs as a result of delays in flying into the Mount Logan region are the responsibility of the participants, including hotel accommodation, extra meals and any extra transportation costs.