Shisha Pangma is the 14th highest peak of the world, and is considered by many as one of the easiest 8000m mountains to climb. Shisha Pangma is the highest peak in the Langtang Himal and is located almost due north of Kathmandu entirely on the Tibetan side of the Himalaya. The peak is characterized by its long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000m, making it an imposing sight to all would be climbers. The Indian-Nepalese name for the peak is Gosaitan, which denotes “The Holy Place”. The Tibetan name for the mountain is Xixapangma. . It’s name literally translates to “The mountain overlooking the grassy plains”.
Shisha Pangma was the last of the 8000m peaks to be climbed. The first ascent is credited to Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964. The team was composed of Chang Chun-yen, Wang Fu-zhou, Chen San, Cheng Tien-liang,Wu Tsung-yue, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten. Shisha Pangma was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980. The first U.S. ascent took place in September 1983, via the mountains Northeast Face, by Mike Browning, Chris Pizzo and Glenn Porzak. By 2003, Shisha Pangma had only recorded 201 successful ascents (to the main summit) and 19 fatalities. As of January of 2000, over 434 people have successfully made the climb to the Central Summit, but only 165 people have continued to the Main Summit, just over an hours climb away, separated by a knife edge ridge of sometimes very unstable snow. This data was collected and published by Jan Kielowski.
Alex Lowe, one of America’s strongest and best-known climbers, died on Shisha Pangma after an avalanche struck on 26,291-foot October 5, 1999, also killed in the avalanche was cameraman David Bridges who was filming the ascent for a documentary. World reknown climber and friend of Lowe, Conrad Anker was also caught in the avalanche but survived.
Day 1: Arrival Kathmandu, transfer to hotel