Our 2018 Everest Express climbers both succeeded in reaching the summit of Mount Everest on May 14th, just under a month from the beginning of our Express program, proving once again that the program works! With the aid of the Hypoxico Tent System as well as helicopters, the Everest Express program allows climbers to achieve the summit in less than one month.
History was made in 2013 when two climbers joined Garrett halfway through the Mount Everest season. These men had each pre acclimatized at homes in a chamber over their beds for one month and then flew directly to the mountain via helicopter where they integrated with the regular climbing team. From that point on (April 26th) they climbed on schedule with the regular team that Garrett led, and summited with the team on May 18th. They experienced no negative effects, and performed well overall. They were door to door in less than a month, and this marked the first and only time that an expedited schedule of this length has been accomplished for guided climbers on a commercial Mount Everest expedition.
This program includes:
• Pre acclimatization plan and rental of the altitude bedchamber
• Training plan to develop appropriate fitness for the Everest climb
• Climbing strategy upon arrival in Nepal to the summit of Mount Everest and back
• All regular logistics and services associated with the standard Mount Everest program we offer once climbers arrive in Nepal.
The Everest Express climb was a success, and proves that with the proper training, technology, and coaching, climbers can elect to forgo the normal two months required to climb Mount Everest. For those with commitments to family and business that would prohibit a two month departure, the Everest Express allows for a successful climbing experience on Mount Everest in a one month or less time frame. Garrett Madison is currently the only guide to have organized and executed successfully a program of this nature in less than one month.
Cost Includes (in addition to normal Mount Everest program):
• Rental of altitude chamber system for 1-month duration of pre acclimatization
• Helicopter flights in Nepal, Kathmandu to Mount Everest base camp and return
• All permits and equipment for the climb including extra oxygen
• Coaching and strategy, guiding by Madison Mountaineering
• Please contact us to learn more about the acclimatization plan and climbing strategy for this program.
Day 1: Arrive Kathmandu, gear check and stay in Yak & Yeti hotel.
Day 2: Fly via helicopter to Lukla. Transfer in helicopter to Lobuche village, rest and sleep in Lobuche lodge (4,940m / 16,300’).
Day 3: Trek to Everest base camp (5,300m / 17,500’).
Day 4: Rest and organize gear in base camp.
Day 5-7: Begin training on Khumbu glacier near base camp. Climbers will practice how to use the fixed ropes, ice axe, crampons, ascender, etc., to climb safely through the Khumbu Icefall and cross the many ladders on the way up to Camp 2. This training will include ascending vertical ice and rappelling down vertical sections.
Day 8: Climb to Camp 1 (5,800m / 19,200’)
Day 9: Rest in Camp 1, acclimatization hike
Day 10: Climb to Camp 2 (6,450m / 21,300’)
Day 11: Rest in Camp 2, acclimatization hike
Day 12: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m / 23,760’), return to Camp 2 to sleep
Day 13: Descend to Base Camp
Days 14-17: Rest in Base Camp
Day 18: Climb to Camp 2
Day 19: Rest at Camp 2
Day 20: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m / 23,760’)
Day 21: Climb to Camp 4 (7,900m / 26,000’)
Day 22: Rest at Camp 4
Day 23: Summit & return to Camp 4
Day 24: Descend to Camp 2
Day 25: Descend to Everest base camp, sleep in base camp
Day 26: Fly by helicopter to Lukla, then Kathmandu
Day 27: Depart Kathmandu for home country
Day 28: Arrive home
Day 29-36: Contingency days (8) in case extra days are needed on the mountain because of bad weather, acclimatization, or getting back to Kathmandu.