An ascent of Denali is ideal for those wishing to experience high altitude expedition mountaineering. Climbers must have intermediate technical snow and ice climbing experience, glacier travel and winter camping skills, plus be in great shape and able to carry 20kg/50lb+ packs. An ascent of Denali is a physically challenging, yet incredibly rewarding experience.
We fly from Talkeetna to Base Camp on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier at 2,134m/7,000ft. From there we commence the climb of the West Buttress moving through increasingly higher camps until we are in a position to ascend to the summit.
Our Standard departure ascends the mountain at a 1:3 guide-to-client ratio, with a maximum group size of 3:9. we also offer a separate 1:2 Low Ratio departure, in addition to a Denali Prep Course for those wishing to hone their skills before taking on the expedition.
Weather and climbing conditions will dictate our progress during the climb.
The following itinerary is a guideline of our schedule.
|0||Arrive Anchorage, 2pm gear check, orientation at the hotel. Optional team dinner|
|1||Ground shuttle to Talkeetna, check in at ranger station, orientation and slide show, pack for glacier flight|
|2||Climb to Camp 1|
|3||Carry loads to cache below Camp 2 (3,048m/10,000ft), return to Camp 1 (2,378m/7802ft)|
|4||Move to Camp 2 (3,413m/11,198ft)|
|5||Retrieve cache (3,048m/10,000ft), return to Camp 2 (3,413m/11,198ft)|
|6||Carry loads to cache (4,145m/13,599ft), return to Camp 2 (3,413m/11,198ft)|
|7||Move to Camp 3 “14 Camp” (4,328m/14,200ft)|
|8||Back carry cache (4,145m/13,600ft)|
|10||Carry cache above the top of fixed lines (4,937m/16,198ft), return to Camp 3 (4,328m/14,200ft)|
|11||Optional Rest Day|
|12||Move to High Camp (5,242m/17,198ft)|
|13||Optional Rest Day|
|14-19||Summit Window 14-18hr day (6,193m/20,318ft)|
|19-20||Descend from High Camp to the landing strip|
|21||Fly off the glacier (weather permitting), sort gear in Talkeetna, trip ends|