Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing is one of the best climb to achieve at 7000M level. Baruntse peak is located just between Lhotse and Makalu with other Himalayan peak stretching in either side but this climb will give you the necessary experience and feel of scale climbing into higher mountains. We do not accept anyone with no-peak climbing experience before and firmly check if you have any prior experience of climbing alpine/mountain climbing. This mountain is definitely the next step into progressing into higher mountain. There is no question about the beauty of climbing this 7000M giant but this peak is by no means a walk in the park. The peak is graded 3D, which consist of some technical climb as well glacier routes. This mountain will shape you with right experience into climbing 7500M + to 8000M climb should it be your next mountain climbing goal.
The steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters make the South-East Ridge of Baruntse a somewhat difficult climb. Therefore, we choose a more accessible and popular alternative via South Ridge. To acclimatize for this 7000M peak we climb the Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) which falls on the same route, which gives us a perfect opportunity to get stronger and get ready Baruntse. Our expedition consists of two camps, Camp I just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and the Camp II on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. The Baruntse Expedition with Mera Peak Climbing also includes a few days trek into the scenic heartland of the Khumbu region.
The south – east ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 metres to be climbed on the way to the top. Sections of the upper summit ridge can be corniced, but there is little evidence of avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain. The most successful ascents have been made in the spring when snow conditions have been good and the mountain has been found to be objectively safe at this time. There is still a debate on which season it is best to climb Baruntse as in the past few years 2013 – 2018 more summits has been done during Autumn season. The steeper sections of the climb are safeguarded by fixed rope, as are the obvious cornices that need to be traversed between the camps on the mountain.
Baruntse Base Camp ( 5400 M )
After summiting Mera Peak the team heads towards Baruntse Base camp. 500m decent down into the Honku valley climbers are assured with rich oxygen, warm weather and sunny spell making good conditions for a good night sleep. The natural environment around is utterly desolate and utterly magnificent in its desolation.
Baruntse base camp is at 5350 M, a few kilometres further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, its easy to cross East Col to West col and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This places the expedition team immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable spot for Camp 2 or Advanced Camp 2 (AC2). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So a different strategy where one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 M is placed, from where the summit is attempted.
Team will practice ascending fixed ropes and rappelling on steep, icy terrain. Hike glacier just outside of camp and spend a few session perfecting skills on overhanging ice. Meanwhile, the Sherpa team will be fixing ropes high in the mountain for the team. Additionally acclimatization hike to the base of the fixed lines below camp 1. Hike features dirt trails, scramble over rocks and crossing beautiful glacier. The day is spent training and preparing for the expedition just below Baruntse peak and then head back to Baruntse base camp.
Puja Day Ceremony ( Rituals ) Base Camp – East Col – West Col – Camp 1 (6100 M) Approx 10 hours
Guiding Sherpa leader teams fixes the rope on all the main difficulties of the summit ridge. Sherpas sets up a safest way through the crevasses, overhangs and icefalls.
Sirdar Sherpas team carry loads from basecamp at 5400 metres to camp 1 at 6100 metre and then returned to basecamp. The climb mostly consists of a moderate climb with steeper sections at the West col which is the final ascent before reaching upon Camp 1. Only the last part is more difficult, where the west col consist, a 45 degrees 200 metre high ice wall. Beautiful views on the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu and the Amphu Lambtsa La which all the climbers will have to cross in few days time when returning to Lukla.
Clients are meant to carry their personal loads 60L – 70L through out the climb.
Camp 1 – Camp 2 (6,400M) or Advanced camp 2.1 (6,500M) | Time approx: 3 – 4 hours Camp 2 6400 M
Camp 2 (6,400M) or advanced Camp 2.1 around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse south-east. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle like slope.
Camp 2 – Summit Push – Back to Camp 2 or 1 | Time approx: 10 – 12 hours
Very sharp ridge at (approx 6900m). The sharp ridge provides an excellent ice climbing over several steep ice walls and extremely exposed cornices. Sherpa team fixing the rope will asses the crevasse opening ridge and there is a consideration of adding a ladder at the top if needed. But normally combining the skills of ice climbing on overhanging ice and through the assistance of fixed rope walking on the narrow steep wall ice wall climbers can overcome the final section of the ridge, then a further 60 – 90 min climb to reach the summit. The summit hosts some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the Himalayas.
Making it to the summit is 60% job done. Descending is one of the grueling part of climbing part of mountain climbing. From there the descend with all the abseiling skills will demand climbers full attention. So, climbers can celebrate their moment at the top. If weather permits and stays non windy then climbers might be able to enjoy 30 – 60 min of celebratory moment with the panoramic view Himalayas. But normally our Guiding team will advice the climbers when to descend down. It’s best to celebrate and at the same time refuel and gain some of your energy back to be able to descend back to camp 2 or 1 safely. A lot of the mountain incident happens on the way back while descending.
After summiting Baruntse, the journey back still host more surprises and before climbers reaches to next civilization at Pangboche. Morene country, over boulders, passed lakes to the foot of the beautiful Amphu Lapcha. Amphu Lapcha hosts a zigzag glaciers with base camp at North and south where we have to stop for a camp night. View from Amphu Labtsa pass Imja valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, Baruntse, just awesome.
Enthusiast climbers will definately have to prepare themselves for technical climbing. On the last 250- 300 meters of altitude, the climbing gets rather technical. Route fixing guides/Sherpas have to take a large amount of ropes to fix the way. Baruntse is not for novices climbers. Climbers need to have some experience at least. Climbing experiences on both the alps, Andes mountains and Himalayas is necessary. Climbers with some experience in mountain climbing it is another great experience to climb Baruntse to further bag and gain a lot of knowledge in mountaineering.
Day 1 Arrival day in Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264ft)
Day 2 Trip Preparation Day
Day 3 Fly to Lukla and trek to Paiya (2730m/8954ft): 3-4 hours
( Mera Express – fly to Kothe, Day 8 of the trail. Additional charges apply )
Day 4 Paiya to Pangoma (2850m/93,48ft): 5-6 hours
Day 5 Pangoma to Nigmsa (2745m/90,03ft): 4-5 hours
Day 6 Nigmsa to Chetra khola (3150m/10332ft): 7-8 hours
Day 7 Chetrakhola to Kothe (3600m/11808ft): 6-7 hours
Day 8 Kothe to Tangnang (4,350m/14,270ft): 3-4 hours
Day 9 Thangnang to Khare – 5,045m/16,486ft : 2-3 hours
Day 10 Acclimatisation day
Day 11 Khare to High camp (5,780m/18,958ft): 4-5 hours
Day 12 Summit Mera Peak and Kongma
Day 13 Kongma Dingma to Seto Pokhari (5035m/16519 ft): 6 hours
Day 14 Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base Camp (5300m/17388 ft): 6 hours
Day 15 – 19 Rest day at the Baruntse Base Camp. Puja ritual ceremony, Training and preparation for summit bid
Day 20 – 25 Camp 1, Camp 2 and Summit
( Fly from Baruntse Base Camp to Lukla, additional charges apply)
Day 26 Baruntse Base Camp to Amphu Labcha Base Camp (5650m/18536 ft): 4-5 hours
Day 27 Amphu Labcha Base Camp(South) to Amphu Labcha Base Camp(North) (5300m/17385 ft) : 5 – 6 hours
Day 28 Amphu Labcha Base Camp to Pangboche (3930m/12893 ft): 6-7 hours
Day 29 Pangboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11286 ft): 5 – 6 hours
Day 30 Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2800m/9186 ft): 6-7 hours
Day 31 Fly back to Kathmandu
Day 32 Departure
If you looking just for Baruntse Express Expedition without Mera Peak climb, please email us.
On this expedition we aim to have max 8 climbers, we have 1 Main guide who will be IMFGA / NMA certified. He is the main leader of the team. Western guide with IMFGA certified can be arranged upon request. Additional* charges apply. But we believe that Nepalese IMFGA certified guides are more than capable in this day and age and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritize local Nepalese leaders first, but if the clients request a western guide personally then we can have that arranged.
Sherpa ratio 2:1. Our Sherpas are NMA ( Khumbu climbing center trained/certified ). Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpas have an intermediate level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.
Logistical team during expedition. we will have 1 head chef with 1-2 helpers for small numbers ( 1-4 groups ). And 3 - 4 ( for 5 - 8 groups ). Porters numbers also depend on the number of climbers. We allow 40Kgs per client for this expedition and each porter will carry 30kgs per client. So, with the increase in weights per client the no. of porter team increases.
We use alpine 3/4 season tents from Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment and Kailas. Most of our client tents are 2 person tents but a single tent can be provided for any solo climbers joining the team. Although we recommend 2 people in a tent to have company and preserve the natural heat. Head of Sherpa team Sardar will be in charge of all the tent setups. On 2020 we will have new tents, burners, and other climbing equipment.
During the trekking days in tea houses mostly foods are prepared according to your choice in the menu. Rice and Lentils ( Dal bhat being the famous diet ) to pasta, soups, pizza, mash potato, dumplings etc. But during the camping days we provide both cooked and packed/canned food supplies packed from Kathmandu.
Options are limited during camping days. Mostly Rice/lentils/veg/ pasta for cooked foods and freezed dried foods, chocolate/energy bars, biscuits, hydration tablets. We will have varieties of freezed dried foods (chicken, veg, spaghetti etc ) which are specially made for expeditions.
We have added contingency day on our 10 days climbing/summit days. If the weather is all great then from base camp to summit and back can be achieved in 5/6 days if that is not the case then we have already added an extra 4 days as a contingency so that our team can have extra days for summit attempt when things don't go as planned. Yes, I would highly recommend return flight to stay flexible as this will give you the opportunity to extend/shorten your departure date.