Amadablam is one of the most beautiful aesthetically and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is considered one of the most sough mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiast, we can see why? It is exposed widely and is clearly visible from most part of Everest region. This expedition involves a cultural trek into base camp, technical rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.We will climb Ama Dablam via the SW ridge, a technical route, and considered to be the standard route. The route is considered a relatively safe route by Himalayan standards.
It was first summited on 13th March 1961 a Silver hut scientific expedition lead by Sir Edmund Hillary. Ever since this beautiful mountain has been a dream expedition for many. Its Southwest ridge line is the most safest route to climb this amazing peak.
Amadablam however is not a easy climb, you will need previous experience of peak or mountain climbing of over 6000-6500 M high and have necessary skills on use of ropes, use of crampons and ice axe have necessary experience on exposure to high altitude climb. You will need a liaison officer and experienced guide to take you to the summit. It is necessary to have experience of ice climbing, peak climbing Island peak or Mt. Blanc before taking on this expedition. Interested climbers with the necessary experience is highly recommended to have the initial necessary experience.
This expedition consists of 3 camps. We will climb through the south west ridge route, which is the most safest compared to others. Once established in Base Camp, we move loads to Camp 1 (5,807m/19,052ft) via a long slope to the beginning of the South West Ridge. The technical climbing begins after Camp 1 as the route consist of slab of rocks then a vertical rock climbing ridge with support of fixed ropes leading directly to Camp 2 (6,277m/20,594ft). The very exposed nature of the route makes for exciting climbing yet the climbing is not as steep as one would imagine. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route. On summit day, the route crosses between the ice cliffs, then follows a snow arête directly onto the 6,828m/22,401ft summit. However, the climbs are physically demanding and long hours of climbs are necessary on the final summit day.
Amadablam is a climbers mountains. You will need your fitness and climbing skills to be able to look after yourself for long hours during the climb according to terrains. You should be able to take care of yourself even during the though climb session, eating well and staying hydrated from the start of the expedition, making sure your gears are in check and functional during the climb. Your Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within your ability to climb and you will be liable to yourself. So, we suggest certain skills especially for Amadablam style expedition.
Rock climbing indoors and outdoors – (i) learn the basics of wearing harness and helmets (ii) tying figure 8 knot and stopper knot (iii) basics of using belaying device correctly (iv) Use ascending and descending devices (iv) basics of using ropes , start/end when climbing (v) learning knowledge of moving while using the gears and being checking the safety features simultaneously.
The more experience you have rock climbing tougher rotes in different types of rock the better it is for you to get familiar with climbing and adjusting during the expeditions.
Abseiling.This is the simplest yet the one of the most important skills to master. Some multi – pitch abseiling knowledge/experience are also required
Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.
Use of Crampons and Ice axe. Winter ice climbing or mountaineering courses are recommended. You should be able to kick step and balance with ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on vertical climb. Ice arrest skills to save your self incase of slips or fall, being comfortable while descending and abseiling on crampons in all the terrains.
Climbing in Altitude. We will be climbing Island peak as a training/acclimatising peak. Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of your body coping in the altitude. You will be liable to yourself so it is best to build you fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatisation but you will also have to be aware of your eating pattern and staying properly hydrated.
( All training will be provided in Amadablam base camp by your expedition leader, to refresh your skill memories and get you started into climbing )
Guides /Sherpas. Ratio : clients. Qualification and level of English
On this expedition we aim to have max 8 climbers, we have 1 Main guide who will be IMFGA / NMA certified. He is the main leader of the team. Western guide with IMFGA certified can be arranged upon request. Additional* charges apply. But we believe that Nepalese IMFGA certified guides are more than capable in this day and age and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritize local Nepalese leaders first, but if the clients request a western guide personally then we can have that arranged.
Sherpa ratio 2:1. Our Sherpas are NMA ( Khumbu climbing center trained/certified ). Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpas have an intermediate level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.
Day 1 / 2 Arrival and gear check
Day 3 Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding
Day 4 Trek to Namche
Day 5 Namche
Day 6 Tengboche
Day 7 Dingboche
Day 8 Chukung
Day 9 – 10 Island Peak Climb to prepare for Amadablam climb
Day 11 Ama Dablam Base Camp
Day 12 Ama Dablam Base Camp
Day 13 Climb to Intermediate Camp
Day 14 Climb to Camp 1, sleep IC
Day 15 Camp 1
Day 16 Climb to C2, return to Camp 1
Day 17-18 Base camp
Day 19 Camp 1
Day 20 Camp 2
Day 21 Camp 3
Day 22 Summit and back to Camp 2
Day 23 Base Camp
Day 24 Rest day
Day 25 Return trek to Namche
Day 26 Return trek to Lukla
Day 27 Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 28 Kathmandu relaxation day
Day 29 Departure
During the trekking days in tea houses mostly foods are prepared according to your choice in the menu. Rice and Lentils ( Dal bhat being the famous diet ) to pasta, soups, pizza, mash potato, dumplings etc. But during the camping days we provide both cooked and packed/canned food supplies packed from Kathmandu.
Options are limited during camping days. Mostly Rice/lentils/veg/ pasta for cooked foods and freezed dried foods, chocolate/energy bars, biscuits, hydration tablets. We will have varieties of freezed dried foods (chicken, veg, spaghetti etc ) which are specially made for expeditions.
Solar panels will be used to provide power or you can use charging points in tea houses. For access to the internet, Everest link card will have to be purchased in every tea houses ( prices from Rs 500/ 5GB to Rs 1000/10GB ) up to Khare which is the last tea house. But during the camping days to communicate we will have to rely on satellite radio comms to stay updated.
We have added contingency day on our 14 days climbing/summit days. If the weather is all great then from base camp to summit and back can be achieved in 7/8 days if that is not the case then we have already added an extra 4 days as a contingency so that our team can have extra days for summit attempt when things don't go as planned. Yes, I would highly recommend return flight to stay flexible as this will give you the opportunity to extend/shorten your departure date.
We use alpine 3/4 season tents from Salewa, Mountain Hardwear, Samaya equipment and Kailas. Most of our client tents are 2 person tents but a single tent can be provided for any solo climbers joining the team. Although we recommend 2 people in a tent to have company and preserve the natural heat. Head of Sherpa team Sardar will be in charge of all the tent setups. On 2020 we will have new tents, burners, and other climbing equipment.
Logistical team during expedition. we will have 1 head chef with 1-2 helpers for small numbers ( 1-4 groups ). And 3 - 4 ( for 5 - 8 groups ). Porters numbers also depend on the number of climbers. We allow 40Kgs per client for this expedition and each porter will carry 30kgs per client. So, with the increase in weights per client the no. of porter team increases.