One of the better Base Camp Treks
Year of Expedtion: 2017
Tim knows this area well. He has a lot of history with many tea house owners and in-turn creates a fantastic 3.5 week itinerary which goes well beyond the beaten path. We avoided the main trail and most other trekkers and climbers most of the time. We stayed in wonderful tiny secluded villages, experienced epic high altitude pass crossings and had a couple of really cool camping spots also. I was not a trekker per-se as I was on Tim’s Everest Climb but the climbers and trekkers are one team on the way to Base Camp. I have the benefit of being able to compare this to other operators and the main trail as I have done that before. My only problem is that we did not stay in Namche Bazaar on the third night and instead passed straight through it and stayed at a nearby tea-house. Namche is very cool and it is a nice experience for weary trekkers as a last chance to enjoy the comforts of civilisation before spending the rest of the trip in tea-houses. There were a couple personality clashes between Tim and clients which he could have handled better but after three weeks these things happen. Tim’s customised off-the-beaten-path trip is top notch. Highly recommended.
Excellent trek away from the crowds
Year of Expedtion: 2017
This trek takes you to Everest Base camp and back in around 3.5 weeks. I chose this company based on the itinerary which sees you follow a less troden path than the usual (faster) route straight to base camp. The parts away from the main trail were the real highlight of this trip. We passed through what felt like very remote villages and some days saw very few other trekkers at all. Tim the leader knows the area really well and also knows most of the owners of the tea houses we stayed in. This meant we got to hear a lot of personal and interesting stories which really added to the experience. We spent 2 nights camping on the way to base camp which was another highlight and a nice change from the tea houses. Incredible views and no one else around during either of these nights. The team managed to produce some excellent hot food which was impressive given where we were. Joining back with the crowds on the main trail on the final miles to basecamp made you really realise how different an experience it would have been had we been on the usual route the whole way. Getting to base camp could have been a bit of an anti-climax for a trekker, however joining a group who were making summit bids meant we got to go to their camp area and spend a couple of nights staying at base camp. That is a pretty unique experience for a trekker and getting to experience base camp life as part of an expedition was fantastic. I would absolutely recommend this trip and route to others considering the Everest base camp trek.
Mixed bag despite summit
Year of Expedtion: 2017
Tim is a seasoned mountaineer and has been around the Nepalese hills for many years. I joined him for Lhotse (my first 8000er), another Lhotse climber and a group of Everest climbers – his overall largest group yet. Both guide and base camp infrastructure appeared stretched by the numbers and requirement to coordinate two different summits as well as stronger & weaker climbers. Looking back, I feel there were significant safety risks that could have been avoided and consequently would not recommend to climb with this outfit despite making the summit (and back). I summarise key points below. Detailed blog on www.rocketontour.com/Lhotse. Some stuff I liked … – The extended trek into base camp was enjoyable and helped acclimatisation – The preparation re medical self-help on the hill was well prepared – His team selection was decent in our case ie. I felt we had on average more qualified climbers in our team than other teams – Camp facilities were decent (for the price) and food sufficient though there is room to improve quality Some of things I didn’t like … – Get used to not getting straight answers, even for the smallest of things. It was upsetting for literally all members of the expedition. I found more answers during a conversation with a neighbouring, Nepali run expedition team. on the flip side, expect disparaging remarks about Nepali government, other teams, etc. – Guide prioritised his own (early) Everest summit over client interests leaving us stranded without comms, weather updates (base camp was dysfunctional while he was on summit bid) and with a guide that post summit needed recovery first (plus wasted his one-time license ruling out another bid with clients) – Guide never actually summited Lhotse so can’t tell much about conditions above camp 4 other than what you can read online. The sherpa I had likewise never submitted Lhotse and at one Everest summit was the most junior available (see next point for priorities) – Lhotse summit was completely secondary to Everest efforts. I would have missed my summit bid if it wasn’t for other climbers going up. Tim missed to spot the Lhotse window having just Everest in mind. – Corners cut on weather forecasts. All borrowed (or listened in on their radio chatter) from other teams which was suboptimal when higher on the mountain. Communication was poor to non existent in Lhotse camp 4 meaning we left for summit bid with uncertain / outdated info. Happened to me and the other Lhotse climber. – Better not get checked! Plenty of expedition gear undeclared to authorities (to avoid fees) such as radios, SAT phone, etc. – No client radio, just for sherpa. Not great as my sherpa was taken away from me, against agreed terms re sherpa support, and diverted to other tasks. Left me in a critical position coming down from C4 to C2 – my guide was unaware of my problems until I told him in base camp 2 days later.
To Ama Dablam and beyond!
Year of Expedtion: 2007
I first climbed with Tim on Ama Dablam in 2007 near the beginning of a climbing career which culminated in summiting Everest in 2011. It will perhaps tell you all you need to know when I say that I chose to go to both Cho Oyu (8201m) and Everest with Tim, to the extent that had I not been asked by Tim if I were interested in being amongst the members of his first guided team on Everest, I would almost certainly not have attempted it. This, I will put down to the unsurpassed experience I had with him on Ama Dablam, and the trust I feel in him as a mountaineer, a guide, a logistician and basically an all-round good guy, who takes great personal satisfaction in seeing his team-members achieve, and sometimes surpass their own personal goals. Tim has the background, experience and personality to make it happen for you, in exactly the way you want it to happen. He allows as much or as little autonomy as desired and appropriate, whilst giving sound advice, backup and support, both logistical and psychological. His background in military harsh-environment training gives him insight into what each team member needs personally in order to progress. He will only take team members with the right attitude and experience, so nobody is a liability to the team as a whole, whilst having the local knowledge and years of mountain experience to deal with any curveballs that these extreme environments can (and often do) throw at you. From the laughs and fun in Kathmandu, to the carefully calculated (yet completely natural!) team-building and acclimatisation on the trek in, I really felt like a valued and important part of an expedition, rather than a client on a climbing tour. Tim has been going to the Khumbu for years, and has many friends in the valley, supporting and fundraising for some of those that have faced hardship, and hence is greeted like family along the route, as will you be. Most of local staff are also trusted old friends, or come highly recommended by them, and are some of the most experienced professionals on the mountain, which is one less thing to worry about. Basecamp is made comfortable, well appointed, well-served, and above all FUN, which is important on the extensive down-time, and this can in the main, be put down to the atmosphere fostered by the good humour of Tim and his team. The climb itself is a wonderful thing. Everything is in place for you to do it the way you want to, with the support needed, the specific local knowledge imparted at basecamp, the radio-comms in place for reassurance should things not go to plan, and the flexibility to accommodate changing conditions or changing minds. I guess I don’t need to add that I thoroughly recommend that you go with Mr Mosedale for an unforgettable experience on AD. I’m so glad I did, for that and for my subsequent adventures with him in the high places of the Himalayas.
Review of Tim Mosedale's Ama Dablam expedition 2007
Year of Expedtion: 2007
I was a member of Tim Mosedale’s Ama Dablam expedition in 2007. From the outset I found Tim very helpful and informative regarding all aspects of preparation. I went to see him at his home before confirming my place, and was very impressed my his ex-military approach to planning and logistics before and during the expedition. I was amazed that more people did not undertake this approach to meeting their potential expedition leader. I seemed rather important that you should like and get on with someone in whom you place such trust. Tim was very approachable and patient, answering all my questions and queries throughout my preparations, which he guided meticulously. From the time we arrived in Kathmandu, where most people had not met each other, he worked hard to gel the team together. He allowed latitude for decision making from the outset, providing advice and guidance, but as expedition members allowing us ultimately to make our own decisions within certain parameters. A classic moment was the discussion around summit pairings and sequence – he facilitated the group towards making the right decisions and for the right pairings to emerge. It felt like our collective decision – not exclusively his – really important in such a small team. On the hill he was always in evidence – we had radios with regular radio checks on progress, health, well-being, etc. each evening so that he knew exactly where everyone was. And how they were feeling. Really important. We all made the distinction between expedition leader, (who can’t possibly be everywhere, although Tim was on the mountain with us all at different times whilst managing the logistics supply chain too) and the expedition guide, who ties you on in the morning and supervises you throughout the day. Ama Dablam is no place for novices, and you need to be competent and confident to look after yourselves through you passage up and down, with minimal Sherpa supervision or presence. It’s the same on Everest, where we had to take full responsibility for our actions, or seek advice if unsure. Tim managed the balance amongst us perfectly, encouraging us up the final summit slopes when the turnaround time was looming, and then chastening us to return when we reached the top and lost all track of time. He got the balance absolutely right. He engendered loyalty to him as a leader, and collaboration and help towards each other. In the military, that’s rare. In “civi-street”, it’s even rarer! Tim was a buoyant and lively expedition leader, and worked really hard at helping us learn to work together and “buddy-up” effectively. His attention to detail both before the expedition, at Base Camp and on the hill was very impressive – we felt both safe and confident because of his leadership. We helped each other, because he encouraged us to do so, and he managed the different styles and personalities really well. As a result of our trip together, we planned to tackle Everest with a small group. I then could not get the time off work, so Tim eventually took the group and there were several successful summits. I summited two years later. On Ama I learnt the skills, decision making and the confidence I needed to tackle Everest in a similar manner. A significant part of that confidence came from the way Tim led team, encouraged us to make our own decisions, and enabled us all to feel our own stake and responsibility for our expedition, rather than leaning on, sitting in judgement and then blaming the expedition leader for any shortcoming or lack of planning on our part. I would not hesitate to recommend Tim Mosedale to lead anyone considering an adventure in the high Himalayas. Roger Owen Ama Dablam 2007
Very happy to recommend Tim – he runs a tight ship, is good …
Year of Expedtion: 2019
Very happy to recommend Tim – he runs a tight ship, is good craic, knows pretty much every stone on Ama and looks after his clients and crew really well. I particularly liked the way that Tim gives the group a lot of autonomy to go at their own pace and has a deep connection with the people of the Khumbu.
Year of Expedtion: 2017
Here is my comprehensive review of our 2017 Ama Dablam expeditions. Sit back, have a brew, read at leisure. Three words spring to mind – slick, experienced and knowledgable. I decided to go with Tim Mosedale after speaking with a leader of one of my previous expeditions. Tim was highly spoken of by other top expedition leaders and to me, having the backing and support of other top leaders speaks volumes. Tim was on hand prior to the expedition at all times. Any questions were answered promptly and comprehensively from kit, to travel, routes, contingency’s, emergency plans and everything in between. First rate service and it was clear from the start that Tim was incredibly knowledgable and had bags of experience that he readily and happily shared. On to Nepal. Logistics were seamless from the start. Being picked up at the airport tying in many other clients from many different country’s was seamless. A few days in a lovely hotel in Kathmandu, taking in the sights and sounds of the city with Tim imparting local knowledge was a cultural experience that would put most holiday providers to shame. Meals out and good chat between members ensured we gelled right from the off. Tim was friendly, approachable and bags of energy. Very welcoming! On to the trail. Here I must emphasise something important. Tim was very clear from the off that this expedition was to be our own. We would have freedom to make whatever decisions we felt were right with Tim providing knowledge and experience to best guide us. Ama Dablam is a serious mountain. If you aren’t experienced enough to look after yourself on a big hill then simply, you shouldn’t be there. This was a big selling point for me. Taking ownership of your own expedition to gain the most from it. The degree of flexibility Tim provided was fantastic for someone who wants to build on skill and knowledge rather than be spoon fed all the way to the summit. Of course, if that’s what you want I’m sure Tim would provide, but then ask yourself should you really be on the hill to start with. The trail to basecamp was fantastic. Again flexibility was great. Tim would explain the days Route with uncanny detail clearly showing his experience of the area and we were free to go along our merry way rather than in the rank and file of some other expeditions. We stopped along the way at many friendly tea houses where Tim and the team were greeted and treated as members of the family. Tim clearly gives a lot to these local community’s in a not so fortunate part of the world. Basecamp was a delight. We actually had our own camp away from the other commercial teams which was a huge bonus. A tent to yourself with a mattress, toilet tent, shower tent and mess tent – all fairly standard on big expeditions but with a top rate cook crew who were friendly, chatty and helpful throughout the trip providing good, fresh local food was ace – best base camp I’ve had. Fresh snacks to nibble on, plenty of chat and Tim providing top tips and handy hints throughout the trip was invaluable. A training sesh was put on by Tim as a refresher and brush up on skills for using the fixed lines with Tim outlining the pros and cons for various methods. On the hill. Again flexibility with top logistics and a top crew. Tim outlined a standard acclimatisation plan with the teams free to make decisions on the hill when necessary. One example, myself and my small 3 man team of members who stuck together throughout the trip decided to have an additional day at ABC – most teams don’t use an ABC (again bonus to have that flexibility) meaning we would require some extra food sent up. Tim would check in each day with every member of the team via radio to see how everyone was getting on and what their plans were so that provisions were in place. The next morning a large bag of additional food was outside our tent before we had even woken up – first class service. Tents already up for us when we arrived at each of the camps and fresh hot water was provided by the porters whenever we needed it. Good food with plenty of variety was provided at base camp for you to select and carry up with a good selection of boil in the bag meals for the high camp – high calorie, low weight, perfect for summit bid. For me this was a great idea. A variety of normal food I.e beans, mash potato, rice meals, meats, cheeses, biscuits etc for lower down and a higher calorie diet with low weight for when it’s required. Summit bid. Weather updates were regular and spot on. That combined with first rate Sherpas and detailed explanation of route meant we had the best chance of success. And succeed we did! Side note – 1 member of our team did suffer frostbite on his hands, but that was due to their own mistake not changing gloves when required. With help from super strong Sherpa, he was down to base camp and slick logistics meant a helicopter was called in the next day for immediate treatment back in Kathmandu the next day, no doubt saving fingers due to the promptness! Back down the hill, camps were quickly dismantled and whisked away. Flexibility again provided if members wanted to take a different route home taking in more sites of the khumbu. Tim again providing local info on the best and safest places to go. More friendly tea houses, relaxed atmosphere, card games, connect 4 (don’t play Tim…he’s unbeatable) and good times all round. Overall I can’t speak highly enough of Tim AND his team. If you’re someone who wishes to improve skill, gain knowledge and undertake a serious expedition that is made to feel your own then look no further! Tip top!
Ama Dablam, exceeding expectations
Year of Expedtion: 2019
Wow-what an expedition, bottom line upfront. I highly recommend Tim Mosedale and his Ama Dablam Expedition, it truly exceeded all of my expectations and is very much value for money. Everything truly exceeded my expectations. It’s always a little unnerving, booking an expedition “blind”, not meeting the leaders face to face beforehand and not knowing the team members you’ll be climbing with. I did speak with Tim several times by phone when booking and to go over logistics, he really made me feel comfortable with my choice of attempting Ama Dablam. It all gets real when you land at Kathmandu airport, will there really be someone there to greet me? How will I find them? Tim had provided me instructions prior, when I arrived and got my bags, I was greeting remediation and I felt relieved and glad that things were falling in place. Arriving at the hotel, Tim greeted me and we went out to dinner, what a great start. The trek from Lukla was well designed, easy walking each day as we slowly gained altitude and acclimatized. Tim was greeted as family at each Tea House, we were treated the same. Just a really fun hike to base camp as the team bonded and new friendships were made. Base camp far exceeded my expectations. A lovely 3 man tent to myself, with a mattress no less 🙂 Kitchen tent where many good meals were served, laughs shared and games were played. Two toilet tents, and a bonus, a shower tent !!! The climbing was really fun, the support of our Sherpa crew and their friendliness was fantastic. Not having to lug tents and set camp felt a little unusual as I’m used to being self-supported, but heck it’s nice to hot camp 2 and not having to spend time finding a platform and pitching tents. Even better was having a supply of water, hot and cold when you needed it. Summit day we set out from camp 2,m the Sherpas came with us for safety and support. Wow are they amazing, without them I doubt I’d have summited. I did get some frostbite during summit day, that was totally my fault for lack of self-care though. Back at base camp, Tim managed to whistle up a helicopter to get me out and for treatment back in KTM. So nice to have someone who cares for you and is well connected to get you to safety when needed. I’m pretty much all healed up now, probably due to the quick extraction and treatment. Thanks Tim ! If someone has taken the time to read this review, you’re probably serious in attempting Ama Dablam. I’d HIGHLY recommend going with Tim Mosedale, its value for money, amazing service and all-around a fantastic experience. Please don’t hesitate to contact me directly if you’d like more insight into my experience. Five stars, only because the rating doesn’t have 6 stars 🙂
Wonderful experience. Highly recommend it!
Year of Expedtion: 2019
Here is my end-to-end review of our 2019 Ama Dablam expedition, with Tim Mosedale. I am describing all stages of our trip in chronological order. As you can see, they are generally very positive with a few items that potentially could have been different. Our decision to go with Tim: We were a team of three climbers living in the US. We contacted 13 different expedition companies asking various questions about: cost, food, Sherpas, facilities, itinerary and ‘leave-no-trace’ policies. We created a decision matrix by assigning weights to each of the 12 different factors, including ‘responsiveness’. At the end two companies came to the top: Tim Mosedale and a well-known New Zealand company. We found no way to justify the significant price difference for our specific needs. So, our small group unanimously decided to go with Tim. Before the trip: As we approached the trip, we got more comfortable that we made the right decision. Tim was available to talk on the phone and continued to be very responsive on emails. He helped with all sorts of planning and gear questions. Two of us planned to start their trip 3 weeks early by trekking in the area before joining the rest for Ama. Tim helped curating a customized itinerary for them, which worked perfectly fine. We realized the value of working with a small company: we were directly communicating with a mountaineering expert who would accompany us on the actual trip. No communication gaps, no misunderstandings, no organizational layers, no delays. Kathmandu: Received in-time instructions on how to cross the customs and fill the forms at the airport. Smooth arrival. Great hotel. Met our friendly guide face-to-face. All good. Trek to basecamp: This was the fun part. As we trekked our way up, we realized how flexible Tim’s approach is toward the expedition. He would accommodate different needs and preferences. He knew every single turn on the trek. He was greeted by the Tea Houses as if he was a native Tibetan – some called him their son. He was actively working to contribute to the well-being of locals and our entire team was treated with special care in return. This is when we realized this is not just about climbing a mountain, but a more meaningful cultural and a deeper human experience. Very valuable indeed. Also every night Tim provided valuable tips and tricks on how to stay warm, how to sleep well, how to stay hydrated and generally how to enjoy our time at altitude. He continued to be available any moment to answer our questions. I cannot emphasize enough on the value of the information we received along the way. Ama Basecamp: We met the rest of the expedition team at the Basecamp. To keep it short: everything and everyone was at or above expectations: the tents, the food, the snacks, the entertainment, the puja ceremony and more. No complaints. Tim brought some quality snacks from the UK which was really appreciated for our long stay at the Basecamp. High camps: Again everything went smoothly. Tim customized the expedition based on the needs/condition of each individual. We were not forced to stay together or move together. Our team of Sherpa’s were very experienced. Tim was dynamically adjusting the plan and giving advice to each climber. Although some people began to suffer from altitude at Camp 1. Summit push: Here is when I think certain things could have been different. One was the food for the summit push: I generally lose my appetite at altitude. This happened to me at Aconcagua a year earlier and happened again at Ama. I could not eat the food that was provided. I am not sure if it would be possible to have more options to choose from (honestly have had limited experience in such expeditions). But I can say that I ‘wish’ I had different food for the high camp. Not sure if I could blame Tim for this, but since I could not eat well, I did not have enough energy on the summit push. The other thing was the weather: we faced very cold weather and very strong winds on the summit day. Our lead Sherpa indicated that this was one of the coldest days he had experienced. The team was caught off-guard and some suffered frostbites. I ‘wish’ we had the heads-up to expect what was coming, and perhaps adjusting accordingly. Again, not sure how accurate the weather models are for Ama. But we did not know about the very challenging conditions which was ahead of us. Finally, it was my Sherpa: I had hired a one-to-one Sherpa so I can have the flexibility to adjust my pace on the summit day. I was hopping to go ahead of the rest of the team to avoid delays on the anchors (which was even more important in very cold and windy conditions). Unfortunately, my Sherpa was reluctant to separate from the rest of the team. Considering the conditions (strong winds), he was not able to communicate properly. So I cannot tell if he had legitimate reason to stay with the rest of the team or simply did not have the confidence to lead. Anyway, our pace was very slow all the way to Camp 3 when I insisted to go ahead and he reluctantly agreed. Despite all of these wishes and the challenging weather, our team had a successful summit day. A large majority of the team summited with no incidents (beside frostbites). Back to Kathmandu: The fun started again once we returned to the Basecamp. Laughs and celebrations all the way back to the hotel. I think Tim was very generous in his hospitality in Kathmandu after our return. We could not ask for more! All in all, very successful tip. If I want to reemphasize on one item it would be Tim’s vast mountaineering experience, flexibility and unique leadership. He was a main reason why enjoyed this trip and had such good success record. I hope I can go on more expeditions with Tim. I strongly recommend him on any major expedition!
I felt the need to write my review of my successful Everest …
Year of Expedtion: 2011
I felt the need to write my review of my successful Everest Expedition in 2011 after reading a couple if very poor reviews, painting Tim Mosedale in colours I simply do not recognise. I have been climbing with Tim for many years, starting with Ama Dablam, moving onto ChoOyu, and culminating in summiting Everest with him in 2011. I have always found him an inspiring motivator, an unsurpassed logistician and an extremely trustworthy guide, to the extent that, had Tim not contacted me to ask if I were interested in climbing Everest as his first guided group on that mountain, I probably would never have attempted the climb, since large groups of non-mountaineers with a bucket list didn’t appeal. I put this down to his professionalism and expertise, and I trust him completely. He runs his expedition on different terms to many others, in that he will only take small groups of experienced mountaineers who are unlikely to be a liability to themselves or others on the mountain. His staff are all experienced professionals with many seasons under their belts. His basecamps are well-served, comfortable and fun. Team members are included in decision making, and have a certain autonomy, or as much is as allowed by the flexibility of himself and his team, which leads to a great camaraderie which seemed to be missing from some of the larger commercial groups. If you don’t have the right experience, need to be babied up the mountain, or expect everything to go like clockwork on a fixed itinerary in a way that almost never happens in this kind if environment, Tim may not be the leader for you, but if you have mountain experience, are personally resourceful and want to take ownership of your climb, whilst given all the logistical and emergency backup you might need by a team of very capable professionals (Tim can’t personally be everywhere at once), then I wouldn’t hesitate to join Tim for a very different experience to the Everest Tours that are taking over the mountain.
I successfully climbed Everest via the South Col in 2016 wit …
Year of Expedtion: 2016
I successfully climbed Everest via the South Col in 2016 with Tim. The expedition was exactly what I was looking for, with it being a small team led by a highly experienced mountaineer in Tim, supported by some of the best, tried and tested logistics on the mountain. I wanted to experience Everest in a way that I could use my previously gained extensive mountaineering knowledge and experience to the full and to feel as independent as possible whilst knowing that I had the support and benefit of decades of experience on the mountain, because I knew I would probably only ever have one chance to achieve my dreams of summiting Everest and I wanted it to be a positive, memorable experience whilst being as safe as climbing an 8000 metre mountain can possibly be. I met with Tim more than once before the trip, in the Lake District and I soon knew that this was someone I could trust and would enjoy spending time with on the expedition. I am a good judge of character and I have continued to climb, and also work, with Tim in more recent years and I find his company to be great fun and also confidence inspiring. See my reviews on the Ama Dablam trips I have shared with Tim for more information. Tim’s website was a great resource before the trip but any questions that I had about the itinerary or equipment were swiftly answered by him in detail, this meant that I arrived in Nepal confident in my choice of gear and how the expedition would unfold and allowed me to really enjoy the scenic trip to Base Camp, which took us away from the crowds and allowed the team to bond and acclimatise, and arrive into Base Camp healthy and feeling motivated to make a start on what, at the point, still seemed like an impossible challenge. The basecamp support was fantastic, with excellent food and no shortage of snacks and familiar goodies for higher up the mountain. The communal tent was always a fun place to be, with regular treats to lift people’s spirits on what was a long and obviously strenuous trip. We were well situated close to the Icefall and whilst we kept ourselves to ourselves, it was clear from who was visiting our basecamp from other major teams, that Tim was very well connected and was sharing and receiving the best information, which allowed the best plans to be made, and adjusted. Knowing that Tim was liaising closely with other “big names” on Everest was reassuring and there was certainly a sense that our team, despite being relatively small, was viewed as one of the main players on the hill. Mountains are dynamic environments and Everest more so than anywhere else, the sheer number of other teams operating, alongside the challenging weather forecasting, added to the separate “rope-fixing” logistics, means that being in the right place at the right time on the mountain is absolutely crucial to getting a shot at the summit. I was able to have two summit attempts extremely close together (within the same week) which was possible due to our own stamina and ability on the mountain but also due to the flexible nature of the trip Tim runs which allows individuals to develop their own itinerary and also for changes to be made at short notice to react to the ever changing environment and to make the most of opportunities as and when they present themselves. Basically if you can make the most of the opportunities, they will be there. I saw on Everest, and have seen since on other mountains, the importance of having good connections and established relationships when things happen that require a rapid and effective response. Tim has long standing trust-based relationships with key people in Kathmandu and in the Khumbu which mean that, for example, if a helicopter is needed for a rescue/evacuation/emergency, it will be there when needed and likely it will be one of the first to arrive. You are in safe hands with Tim and his team and should extra resources be required, they will be readily available. This is not always the case with other operators. I would say that if you are an experienced mountaineer and are looking for the opportunity to achieve your high-altitude goals and ambitions, Tim Mosedale is the guy to go to. You will have a great time from the first meeting in Kathmandu to saying farewell as you travel home at the end of what was hopefully a successful trip and I would have no hesitation in recommending Tim.
Problems with leadership and logistics damaging an otherwise amazing trip
Year of Expedtion: 2017
Deciding to climb Everest isn’t something that you do overnight. You climb a lot of hills on the way and see lots of well run and less well run expeditions. Tim runs a small, less commercial climb and while that appealed to me (along with the price tag), on reflection it came with additional risk and lower quality than expected and ultimately we were at the mercy of bad decision making from our leader. Tim is a quirky guy I’m sure he is some climbers cup of tea, I would suggest getting to know him very well in advance so avoid surprises. Even those climbers I have met which like him and are in awe of his achievements accept he is not everyones cup of tea. On the mountain the main reason I will mark this trip down is 2-fold 1) Logistics logistics logistics. Radios which didn’t work. Not providing the sherpa cover as promised. Borrowing and listening in on other teams weather and sometimes not having a forecast as a result. 2) Leadership and decision making. I still cant believe what he did on our summit push, and frankly those of us on this trip are often looked at in disbelief by climbers, expedition leaders and lay people alike when we detail what happened. We went for an early summit but aborted before camp 3 as a result of heavy snows and failed rope work higher up. We returned to base camp to wait for the next window and all decided as a team following review of the forecasts that we would take a break down in namche and recuperate. Two of the team walked to Namche, three of team took a helicopter. Just as everyone was settling down in Namche Tim contacted us to say he had spoken to the Ghurka team and changed his mind and thought we should go for summit immediately with them. Weather wasn’t perfect but doable and the they would set the ropes themselves and we’d go right behind. We all discussed and decided that given this would be our last shot (as he explained it), we were tired and could use R&R, and there were still no ropes or summits yet in the season, we should stop focusing on being the first up the mountain and just fall in line for a later window. We weren’t trying to be heroes. When we told Tim of the decision of the whole team, he said fine but I am going to climb with the Ghurka anyhow and take the assistant guide as he needs to get home early. So off went Tim and we were left with no comms for days. A new window opened which we missed as a result and then finally when Tim came back he suggested we wait despite there being another window. The assistant guide who Tim had brought promptly went home. Finally we did manage (thankfully) to find a window on the last day of the season. Tim suddenly “found out” he couldn’t summit a second time without paying a further fee and as a result didn’t end up climbing on our final summit push from camp 4 at all. Simply bizarre and certainly not as advertised. We made it so I won’t give a 0 or 1 , but the risks were higher on this trip over other (largely more expensive ones to be fair) as far as we could tell – we had been willing to give up some pampering but had been sold on expert risk management. Tim disappearing for 6 critical days as the short weather window opened also gave us all a lot of stress as we started to think our trip was being ruined and we wouldn’t get a shot at all. The silver lining is the climbers who went through this crazy experience have bonded and we’re all now great friends for life
Year of Expedtion: 2017
Tim is an excellent climber. Tim is a nice guy. His logistical company do a pretty good job despite their questionable reputation. The food Tim provides is excellent. The start of the expedition was fantastic. We did an ‘off the beaten path’ trek to Base Camp which saw some amazing sites and got us to BC nicely acclimatized. At Base Camp, Tim worked his hardest to ensure all climbers were well informed and comfortable. He even spent of a lot of time with me personally helping me through a bad injury which nearly ended my expedition before it started. Above Base Camp things were very different. I spent a few hours climbing with Tim on my first rotation. I didn’t really see him on the trail after that. Despite promises of a 1:1 Sherpa Ratio I only had a sherpa with me on my summit day, even he disappeared for an hour after unclipping, slipping and disappearing but that is another story. The higher we got and the more difficult it became for Tim to manage an Everest Team and a Lhotse team, cracks started to appear in his leadership. By the time we were heading for the summit there were a plethora of errors, shortcuts, ridiculous situations, and dangerous events. Here is a summary. Sherpas were too stretched setting up camps to climb with clients. Tim never climbed with clients (or at least myself) We never had radios ourselves, not even on summit days this became dangerous as we were usually alone without guides or sherpas. Tim was trying to manage two teams on two different mountains at the same time which did not go well. Tim borrowed weather reports from other teams and tuned into other team’s radio conversations trying to get information on weather. The weather on our summit day was terrible. We descended from the summit in a terrible storm. We were one of two teams summitting that day. Tim did his personal Everest summit before the rest of the team using up his one permit meaning he could not accompany us to the summit despite ensuring he would. Lots of promises at sea level did not come to fruition at 8000m. Tim would have sudden furious outbursts at team members for no apparent reason. Back down in the valley prices for helicopter rides always increased when we needed to return to BC. And much much more more. Overall I cannot recommend Tim Mosedale or Himalayan Guides Nepal for an Everest Climb. I feel my expedition was very dangerous and I am very lucky to have come back down – no thanks to the guides. Like I said, Tim is a nice guy and a good climber but I don’t think he should be running a Mountain Guiding Business.