Brief Description of Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado is the highest volcano in the world, located on the border between Argentina and Chile in the Andes mountain range.

With an elevation of 6,891 meters (22,608 feet), the dormant complex volcano is the second-highest peak in South America and the continent’s representative of the Seven Volcanic Summits.

The volcanic peak comprises two summits – one on the Chilean side of the border and the other on the Argentine side. The Chilean summit is slightly taller, but the elevation difference is unnoticeable to the human eye.

Despite these distinctions, Ojos del Salado and the surrounding mountains remain far less popular than Aconcagua, the continent’s highest peak. Nevertheless, several hundred climbers attempt to reach the summit each year.

Part of the reason for this is the mountain’s location in a remote region of the Andes, meaning any expedition requires a high degree of logistical planning. Furthermore, Ojos del Salado remains a challenging climb due to its high altitude, harsh climate and technical difficulty (on the Argentine side).

Quick Facts about Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado gets its name from the large salt deposits surrounding its summit.
Due to its remote location, astronomers are currently considering whether to build an observatory on the mountain.
While the last eruption occurred at least 35,000 years ago, the mountain still features several active fumaroles, a potential hazard for climbers.

History of Ojos del Salado

The volcanic peak was first mentioned in the historical record in 1896 by the Chile-Argentina boundary commission, which named it Ojos del Salado.

Previous evidence suggests indigenous routes through the mountains did not pass by the peak, and several explorations by Spanish conquistadores did not reference Ojos del Salado.

The first recorded ascent of the peak came on February 26, 1937, when a team of Polish mountaineers – Justin Wojsznis, Stefan Osiecki, Witold Paryski and Jan Szczepański – reached the summit and left a cairn, which was subsequently destroyed.

Due to the flaws of elevation measuring techniques at the time, there was a long-running dispute over whether Ojos del Salado was taller than Aconcagua.

Initial media reports cited incorrect barometric readings as evidence that the volcano was South America’s highest peak. However, more advanced GPS measurements later corrected the record.

Experience Required for Climbing Ojos del Salado

Ojos del Salado is considered a trekking peak since it requires no technical mountaineering abilities, but it still demands a high degree of physical fitness and previous high-altitude experience.

The dormant volcano is quite prominent, with a 3,688-metre (12,100-foot) change in elevation between its base and the summit. As a result, acclimatisation is critical to success for those beginning the ascent from the base.

Along with elevation, the extreme climate of the mountain presents plenty of challenges, including intense sun, cold temperatures and high winds along exposed slopes and ridges.

Due to these difficulties, a high level of physical fitness is required to make the steep and steady ascent, with few opportunities to stop along the way.

Main Routes up Ojos del Salado

Three main routes lead up to the summits of Ojos del Salado. Two begin from the Argentine side of the border, and one starts from the Chilean side.

The route starting from the Chilean side is the easiest and most popular since it is possible to drive four-by-fours to a higher starting point on the mountain than on the Argentine side.

The ascent from Chile begins at Refugio Atacama at 5,200 metres (17,000 feet), with hikers trekking up the side of the mountain, cutting diagonally across one of its slopes toward the summit.

The final section of the climb is the most challenging part and requires some previous scrambling experience along the volcanic scree. While scrambling is not difficult, the wind and altitude make it harder.

The Ruta Varsoviana is the most popular route on the Argentine side and is known as the normal route.

From El Arenal, climbers ascend the mountain’s steep southern slope before reaching the saddle, with some sections of the ascent requiring a bit of scrambling.

From the saddle, climbers continue scrambling along the steep ridgeline, past the base of the summit pyramid and up to the top.

The Mike Dorse Direct route is the third one that leads to the top of Ojos del Salado and is also the toughest.

The route also begins from El Arenal before veering off to the left. Climbers hike to the base of the mountain’s glacier before climbing it.

Once at the top of the glacier, climbers follow the same ridgeline as the Ruta Varsoviana to the summit.

Ojos del Salado Expedition w/ Adventure Peaks

Reviews