Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world is located in the South of Everest massif, separated by the Everest South col. Generally we operate Lhotse expedition in post monsoon season (spring) though it can also be organized in autumn season on request. Lhotse is a massif of different in the Lhotse range such as Lhotse shar, Lhotse middle, Lhotse East and we climb the highest peak of the massif.
Lhotse Climbing route follows the Everest route until Camp III, then splits off to “Lhotse Camp 4” steep up the Camp III. Our Sherpa team will fix the route all the way to the summit, but there is steep ice and rock in the Lhotse Couloir so you need to be very fit and capable.
Our Lhotse expedition begins after a panoramic flight to Lukla, following the classics Everest route, we set up base camp on same as Everest Base camp, after our strong team of Sherpas set up various camps, whereas members have the chance to up and down acclimatizing and on a favorable day we attempt to climb this impressive mountain.
To help you prepare your Lhotse Climb expedition and clarify your probable doubts we have noted few points as under whether they might be useful:
FULL BOARD SERVICE UP TO SUMMIT
Full Board Service Means:
Asiana Nepal Treks & Expedition offers Full Board Service up to Summit for our entire range of flagship Mountaineering Expeditions to all 7000m to 8000m peaks. Our Full Board service means that we will provide a Trekking service, an in-Base camp service and High camp service executed by your Sherpa Climbing Guide. All our Full Board clients will have a personal Sherpa Climbing guide exclusively dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating on the route; Establish all high camps with camping equipment, provisions and oxygen and prepare high altitude food for his client; Assist his client on the route and ensure client safety and wellbeing on the route through guiding and negotiating the route access priorities at pace and schedule determined by clients’ physical condition and preferred pace; Ensure total commitment to the client in case of emergency with clients’ safety and well being as overriding priority.
High camp service for Full Board Service clients will consist of provision of all equipment necessary to fix the route, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, including mask and regulator and latest model of Poisk oxygen, Summit system of Mask regulators in quantities specified in your climbing itinerary as per height of Mountain.
Length of Lhotse Climbing Expedition
Lhotse Expedition total duration is 50 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu), this duration is planned for the overall expedition such including administrative formalities, approach to/from Base Camp, acclimatization at Base camp, and above Base camp for the summit attempt etc….The daily waling /climbing / ascent duration depends on each camp basis, such as during approach to Base camp an average walking duration is 5-6, whereas from Base camp to Camp III is about the same duration and from Camp III to Lhotse summit is 9+ hours depending on each climber. The above average duration is just generalized, but the actual climbing duration depends on each climber.
Administrative Formality for Lhotse expedition
There are quite lot of government formalities for obtaining the Lhotse Climbing permit, and as a professional Lhotse Expedition organizer company we take every administrative formalities for climbing Lhotse seriously so that the member/client could enjoy a hassle free Lhotse Climbing. We process the permits 3 months in advance, therefore you are requested to send the relevant documents (please print them, fill up, scan them & send us by e-mail along with a scan passport photograph):
Difficulty of Lhotse Climb
This is another major question frequently asked. And the answer to this is rather simple; the difficulty of any mountaineering depends on your previous climbing experience, physical fitness, mental preparedness etc… Lhotse Climbing is of course difficult for those who are not completely prepared for climbing. Lhotse expedition route is same as for Everest climb up to Camp III i.e. first through the Khumbu ice-fall then to Camp I and Camp II to Camp III on the yellow band, from where the route for Lhotse Climbing separes stiff climbing, so you should have technical climbing as well and at the same time due to its harsh weather conditions, high altitudes can make the climb difficult, but our climbing sherpas will fix ropes at some technical sections such as between camp III to the Summit. There will be fixed ropes from the Khumbu Icefall to Camp III, so if you are bit careful about using your personal equipments, good preparation before coming on the Lhotse expedition will surely lead us to the summit. Beyond your personal efforts, of course we do our best as well, proving good logistical support, itinerary modification etc....Before coming on Lhotse expedition we suggest you have at least 7000m climbing experience, do physical exercises by running, long walking, cardio vascular exercises etc. It is also important that you have general check up with your doctor before coming on the expedition.
At an Emergency
ASIANA NEPAL TREKS & EXPEDITION prides itself on being prepared for any emergency during Lhotse expedition. Our guides / Sirdars are trained in first aid and can deal with most of the basic ailments that are associated with the Lhotse Climbing / mountaineering. When a serious emergency does occur, then outside help is needed and such rescues are expensive therefore every climber should have his or her own insurance arranged before coming to Nepal. It is advised that you buy the Insurance Policy right from the home Country through a reliable Insurance company covering medical, accidental and rescue evacuation. Please ensure with your insurance company whether they really cover the risk for such high altitude mountaineering expeditions such as for Lhotse (8,516 m / 27,940ft).
Food safety & the types of food
Food safety to keep our Lhotse expedition members is always a priority for us; therefore we brief you about the food safety before departure on an expedition. All food we take for Base camp use are freshly bought from the market, properly checked the date validity or their freshness before dispatch to Lukla and all our cooks and kitchen staffs are trained in cooking varieties of hygienically prepared foods and good taste.
During approach to/from Base camp you will have your breakfast and dinner at tea houses. We stop for lunch at one of the various trailside restaurants. And snacks are always easy to find. During your stay at Base Camp our well trained and experienced cook will prepare fresh and tasty meals and snacks. We will have plenty of food including the traditional Nepali meal Dal Bhat (rice, curry, and lentils), noodles, rice, potatoes, vegetables and soup and Nepalese versions of western food such as pizza and French fries etc... There will be also various types of snacks such as biscuits, chocolates, nuts etc also special cakes prepared by our cook with plenty of drinks such as tea, hot chocolates, coffee, juice etc… And for the Full board expedition service food for higher camps above base camp will be various types of light / energy foods such as chocolate bars, dry fruits, biscuits, tea, coffee, sugar, whole meal packed food etc….
Drinking water during Lhotse expedition
During approach from Lukla to Base camp and Back to Lukla all teahouses have boiled water that is quite safe to drink. Your guide will provide you with all the water you need during your trek to Base Camp, though you may also buy bottled water on the trail, but we do not encourage much on this as the plastic bottles are difficult to dispose off and have become an environmental problem. During your stay at Base camp the water source is either from a small stream, ice or snow melting that our cooks boil and 100% safe to drink or cooking. Above Base camp in the mountains the water source is from snow melting which is safe for drinking as well.
Equipment you should bring for Lhotse expedition
Choosing the right equipment is very important especially for climbing. All group climbing equipments for Lhotse expedition such as ropes, tents, snow bars, ice-screws, shovel, cooking pots are provided from Asiana Nepal Treks & Expedition for full board Lhotse expedition service, whereas you need to have enough personal clothes to stay warm and good gears for climbing or cool yet not over packed. Usually you will have warm days and very cold nights. Detailed information about the personal gear is available on request or briefly explained about the gear list section of the page.
Extra money to bring
Without knowing your proper service selection of the expedition either Full Board expedition service, Base camp service or any other services, it is next to impossible to justify the correct amount you would need to bring, but there will be always only little money that you can bring for personal expenses such as souvenirs, drinks, personal equipment etc... Therefore, we advise you on this after your chosen expedition service.
Experience of our guides / staffs
ASIANA NEPAL TREKS & EXPEDITION has some of the most dependable and experienced guides / Climbing Sherpas. All of our guides / Climbing Sherpas have spent years climbing mountains and Lhotse Climbing experience with many times to the Summit, so you can be confident in our staffs.
Accommodations & toilet facility
We provide a single room for Lhotse Climb expedition members in Kathmandu. During your approach to/from Lukla -Base camp you need to share room with other people as there are no single room facility in lodges. At Base camp you will be provided a single tent with thick mattress and pillow to make your sleep comfortable and at Camp I and above to Camp Four, you need to share tent with another member which will be also warmer. There will be also a separate toilet and shower tent facility at Base Camp.
Our approach is to raise environmental awareness among Climbers making the Lhotse expedition an Eco-Lhotse expedition. We also give information to our valued clients on how to minimize maximum damage on the environment. We clean up and bring all our garbage back from Base Camp and from the mountain as far as possible produced during the expedition. Yearly we invest 3% of our net profit for the above purpose and furthermore, in participating in various social works in Nepal. We always heartily welcome and enchant your comments and suggestions for a better way to serve our customers, environment and nature.
All Lhotse Climb Expedition material copyright-Asiana Nepal Treks & Expedition Pvt. Ltd.
World’s 4th highest mountain
Elevation: 8,516 m / 27,940ft.
Coordinates: 86°56’00”E-27°57’42”N, located in Himalaya (Sagarmatha Zone, Nepal
– Tibet, China border)
Activity: Mountaineering expedition
Grade: 4 (needs high level of physical fitness & climbing experience at least above 7000m)
First Ascent: Fritz Luchsinger & Ernst Reiss, Swiss climbed Lhotse on 18th May 1956
Starting from: Lukla Ending at: Lukla
Lhotse Climb Expedition Fixed Departure
Outline Itinerary Expedition
Day 01: Arriving in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
Day 02: Preparing expedition in Kathmandu & hotel
Day 03: Expedition Briefing in department of tourism
Day 04: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding stay lodge
Day 05: Trek Phakding & Namche Bazaar stay lodge
Day 06: Acclimatization, day hiking uphill stay lodge
Day 07: Trek Namche to Thyangboche 3860m. Lodge
Day 08: Trek Thyanboche to Pheriche4240m.Lodge
Day 09: Trek Pheriche to Lobuche 4900m. stay lodge
Day 10: Lobuche to Lhotse base camp and camping
Day 11 – 44 Climbing Period Lhotse 8516m
Day 45: Trek base camp to Pheriche and stay lodge
Day 46: Trek Periche to Namche bazaar stay lodge
Day 47: Trek Namche bazaar to Lukla staying lodge
Day 48: Fly to Kathmandu airport and transfer hotel
Day 49: Free day and relaxing in Kathmandu -hotel
Day 50: Transfer to airport from Hotel for departure
The above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customized according to your available time and requirements.
The final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extended depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
FULL BOARD up to SUMMIT SERVICE COST included:
US $ 16,999 per person (Inclusive of all taxes)
Group Size: Minimum 12 people required
Cost Included Full Board Services:
- ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: Pick up and drop off services for both international & domestic flights as per the itinerary
- HOTEL ACCOMMODATION: 5 nights Hotel in Kathmandu one double room with breakfast basis
- WELCOME DINNER: A welcome dinner with Office Staff in a typical Nepali restaurant in Kathmandu
- TRANSPORTATION: Kathmandu to Base Camp to Kathmandu transportation cost for our overall expedition crew for the entire expedition and trekking
- CLIMBING PERMIT: Expedition Royalty and Climbing Permit Charge by Nepal Government to climb Mount Lhotse expedition
- ROUTE FIXING CHARGE: Lhotse summit route fixing charge
- TRASH: Stool shipment and other garbage disposal fee
- MEALS: Fresh Meals on full board (Breakfast + Lunch + Dinner) with Hot Drinks/ Tea/ Coffee/ fresh meat & fresh vegetable during the climbing and trekking days
- LIAISON OFFICER: Government Liaison officer and his daily wages, equipment, food, insurance, and both way airfare
- COOK AND KITCHEN HELPERS: Experienced and well-trained base camp cook, Camp-2 cook and Kitchen helpers
- PORTERS:Porters up to the Kathmandu to Base Camp to Kathmandu and return from the base camp
- STAFF WAGES: All wages, equipment, food, accommodation, and insurance for all staffs in trekking and expedition
- MEMBER PERSONAL BAGGAGE:Maximum fifty kilograms per member as a personal baggage
- BASE CAMP TENT:North face, Kailas, Red Fox or any other branded tent and each expedition member will have an individual tent available at the base camp
- BASE CAMP EQUIPMENT:Dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet tent, hot shower tent, communication tent, mattress, pillow, table, chair, and other required equipment
- ELECTRICITY: Generator at the base camp and solar panel at C2 for light or charging any electronic devices
- HEATER: Heater at the base camp for a member and staff
- COMMUNICATION:Communication device like Satellite Phone & Willkie-Talkie in case of emergency.(USE PAY)
- Portable Altitude Chamber (PAC) & Gamow Bag along with the comprehensive First Aid Kit.
- Emergency Oxygen with regulator and mask while on mount Everest Expeditions.(USE PAY)
- INTERNET AND CELL-PHONE: Internet service, satellite and cell-phone network available at the base camp (chargeable as per use)
- MEDICAL SERVICE: HRA medical camp provides emergency medical services with certain charge
- WEATHER FORECAST: Availability of the daily weather forecast during the entire expedition
- OXYGEN: O2 Poisk oxygen 5 bottles allocated for member and 2 bottles for each climbing Sherpa
- MASK AND REGULATOR: Will be provided Top Out or Summit mask regulator for each member and climbing Sherpa
- BACKUP OXYGEN AND MASK REGULATOR: In case of emergencies, sufficient oxygen and mask regulator available at our base camp
- HIGH ALTITUDE TENT: North Face, Kailas, Red Fox or any other branded tent from Base Camp to C1, C2, C3 and C4
- GENERAL CLIMBING EQUIPMENT: EPI gas and gas burner, dynamic climbing rope, ice screws, snow shovel, snow bars, carabineers etc.
- CLIMBING SHERPA GUIDE: One professional climbing Sherpa per member
- CLIMBING SHERPA ALLOWANCE: Equipment that requires advance payment,daily wages, carrying bonus and summit bonus
- EQUIPMENT ALLOWANCE FOR STAFF: Equipment allowance for Base Camp cook, camp two coo, and kitchen helpers
- RESCUE INSURANCE: Helicopter rescue insurance for high altitude climbing guide, cook, and staff
- Emergency Helicopter rescue arrangements,
- FAREWELL DINNER: Farewell dinner with expedition staff in a Nepali typical restaurant with the cultural show in Kathmandu
Full Board Services Cost Excludes
- International flight ticket, taxes and visas
- Lunch & dinner, hotel after 5 nights in Kathmandu
- Personal trekking & climbing equipment
- All expenses of personal nature like bar bills, laundry, telephone etc.
- Insurance for travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost baggage.
- Applicable permit fee & custom fee for SAT phone, filming camera, communications – equipment (if brought)
- Extra yak charge