Mount Tilicho Peak Expedition

Elevation: 7,134m (23,406ft)

Location: Nepal/Annapurna Region

Coordinates: 28°41′04″ N 83°48′16″ E

First Ascent: Emanuel Schmutz (French), 1979

Climbing Season: Late spring and autumn

Expd duration:32 days (typically)

Climbing duration:9 days (typically)

Group Size: 02-15 person per Group

Tilicho peak Expedition (7,134m)

About Tilicho Peak:

The Peak Tilicho situated at the north of Manang in Annapurna Region. This peak is towers at the height of 7134m in altitude. Tilicho Peak’s northeast ridge covered with snow majestically towers the high Kali Gandaki valley to the west and the Marshyangdi Valley to the east, while the hidden pro- kingdom of Mustang lies just few miles to the north. Maurice Herzog reported Tilicho in 1950 during his exploration of Annapurna. French climber Emanuel Schmutz climbed peak Tilicho for the first time via Northwest Shoulder, which reaches the shores of Lake Tilicho. This is a standard climbing route of the peak with the Base Camp (4800m) located on the Northwest end of the lake.

Tilicho Peak Climbing:

Tilicho Peak Climbing is a technical climb and not so easy one. We follow the classic route of Annapurna circuit trekking up to Manang and then proceed towards Tilicho Lake to approach the mountain. There will be three high camp established in the approach to the summit of Peak Tilicho. The climb is very straightforward from the Base Camp to Camp 1 (5800m) on a shelf below the Northwest shoulder along on 50deg mixed rock and ice 590m route. Camp 2 (6200m) is located on the shoulder and accessed via 55deg 450 m snowfields. The shoulder itself is also a 55deg 800m snowfield with a low objective danger and very low exposure due to very large width of the shoulder. Climbing Tilicho Peak with fixed ropes is required on 40 degrees slope to reach Camp II at 6300m Summit approached with climbing on some stretches of 60 degrees slope.

A standard access to the Base Camp of Tilicho Peak is through Besishahar via Marsyangdi valley within 10 days trek and affording an excellent acclimatization. After the Tilicho Peak climb one can fly-out from Humde, only one day hike from the Tilicho Base Camp or from Jomsom with 3 days hike via Thorong La pass (5416m). Tilicho Base camp is also accessible from Kali Gandaki valley through difficult Mesokanto Pass (5300m). The view from Tilicho is breathtaking on Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateau and down to the deepest valley in the world the Kali Gandaki valley.

There are two ways to reach up to Base Camp of Peak Tilicho. The Peak expedition starts up with a drive Besishahar, followed by several days trekking to Base Camp as well as another way is can fly from Pokhara to Jomsom and start further. However, we choose the first idea as this allows enough time for acclimatization and less difficulties for taking all the logistics. The views on the routes are breath taking; anything that can surpass your imagination. What you see is Tilicho Peak and the azure and peacefulTilicho Lake below. It is a glacial lake and unfriendly to marine life. People say they often find marine fossils (shells) that probably support the fact that the Himalayas were once beneath the sea.

We set up the base camp for Tilicho Peak Climbing near the lake some of days will be rest celebrating the Puja by Buddhist priest. Tilicho stands as a daunting task above the camp, which is on a moraine. From the Tilicho base camp (around 4400m) we set out for our final goal – Tilicho 7,134m as seen from near the Base Camp.

• Base Camp to Camp (I) - Climbing route is straight steep 70º / 90º
• Camp (I) to Camp (II) - Climbing route is strait steep 90º with ice vertical.
• Camp (II) to Camp (III) -Climbing route is steep to get summit 40º/ 60º or Max. 70º

Itinerary