Everest from the north (Tibet, north col)
So much has already been written and continues to be written about it. Good and bad, fascinating, cautionary, electrifying, odd, disturbing, and interesting. You can think what you want, but it is and remains the mother of all mountains. It’s the mountain whose history of ascents is unsurpassed, bursting with drama, madness and heroics. The playground for the top climbers of our time and the life-long dream of so many climbers from around the world. It‘s not just a mountain. The Everest is a myth. And it makes you a hero.
We are the first independent European tour operator to offer Mount Everest tours from both the North and the South at the same time. With the highest possible safety and quality standards and the comforting ressurance of dealing with a fully licensed and strictly tested Austrian expedition organizer.
- 1:1 client to sherpa ratio on summit day
- Minimum 8 bottles of oxygen per client
- UIAGM mountain guide
- 2017 success rate 100%
- 2018 success rate 100%
- 2019 success rate 100%
- Smallest groups compared to other tour operators for more safety and higher chances of success
- Including a high altitude tent for pre-acclimatization at home!
- Shorter expedition duration due to pre-acclimatization
North vs. South
The two "normal ascents" on Mount Everest each offer certain advantages, but also pose their own risks and challenges. Ultimately it should be a well-informed decision on the part of aspirants whether to climb from Tibet in the north via the North Col and Northeast ridge, or from Nepal in the south over the Khumbu Icefall, Lhotse face and the Southeast ridge. In many cases, a decision in favour of one or the other side will be a result of several factors including the experience of the participant, his personality, and his exact plan for ascent, Perhaps one side is more appealing to you, it exerts more attraction or catches your eye with a beautiful line. Listen to your intuition, which usually provides the best advice in such cases, or seek personal advice from us!
+ objectively the safer ascent route
+ the last camp is higher (8300m) resulting in a shorter summit stage
+ more comfortable and luxurious basecamp due to road access
- longer exposure to wind and cold during ascent
- technically more challenging during the last third, more cliffs
- descending from the summit is more difficult
+ technically the easier and longer ascent, sheltered from the wind
+ statistically a higher chance of reaching the summit
+ lower altitude base camp, resulting in better regeneration
- ice fall and avalanche hazard at the Khumbu icefall and the Lhotse slope
- last camp is at 8000m, resulting in a longer, more strenuous summit day
- Overall ascent from the base camp is somewhat longer and requires more stamina
Furtenbach Adventures Everest Expeditions
We are offering Everest expeditions in unique style with maximum oxygen and Sherpa support to achieve the greatest amount of security and the highest chances of success. The exclusive spirit of Furtenbach Adventures makes our expeditions a touch different. Maybe even a touch better.
- We provide 15 years of experience in the organization of expeditions to eight-thousanders in the Himalayas and Karakoram.
- We provide experienced, state-certified (UIAGM) western mountain guides, accompanied with a tried and tested Everest Sherpa team.
- We provide sherpas to our members who have repeatedly stood on Everest and know exactly how they can best support our climbers during their summit attempt.
- In contrast to many other tour operators, we provide the most advanced, most reliable and easiest oxygen system from Summit Oxygen which is available on the market.
- We provide each participant with at least 8 bottles of oxygen, more than any other organizer. Thus, our participants can rise at a higher flow rate and sleep with oxygen at Camp 2 (North Col) and Camp 3, thus conserving energy.
- Our participants are better acclimatized when they arrive to the mountain because they have already started acclimatizing at home 6 weeks prior to the expedition. The complete high altitude generator equipment including training plan is included in the price and will be delivered to your house and picked up when training is completed. You don’t need to take care of anything.
- We provide one of the most comfortable base camp facilities Mount Everest has ever seen
- We provide a kitchen team and food which you would not expect at a base camp on a glacial moraine at the end of the world.
But above all, we provide the Furtenbach Adventures promise of quality:
You get more Sherpa support, more oxygen and more comfort than with any other provider. This leads to better recovery, more safety and, ultimately, to higher chances of success. The total travel time can be shortened by pre-acclimatization at home.
The following schedule is planned:
The exact schedule on Mount Everest depends on regulatory requirements, the weather and snow conditions as well as the progress of security work along the route. In addition, the schedule of other groups is taken into account in order to avoid any potential traffic jams. In addition to the basic framework which we provide, such as oxygen, Sherpa support, base camp, route, high camp etc., a successful ascent also requires a great deal of luck, good weather, good physical condition and mental strength of the participants. We allow maximum flexibility. The expedition can be extended if required by the circumstances, as long as the participants wish to do so and are ready to bear the additional costs incurred.
Day 1: Arrival and get-together at the hotel in Kathmandu
Meet and greet the other participants while enjoying a beer in the hotel gardens. A great adventure awaits us. You can feel the tension rising. Soon we will embark on our journey and already there’s a feeling of pride and grandeur.
Days 2 – 3: Free days in Kathmandu
Those who do not yet know Kathmandu will love it. Relax in the comfortable hotel, shop and people watch in Thamel, enjoy the cultural program, or simply soak up the atmosphere. To each his own.
Day 4: Flight to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet – one of the probably most stunning mountain flights in the world where you might be able to already catch a glimpse at the Everest. The rest of the day remains to explore Lhasas’ old town or enjoy a traditional Tibetan dinner.
Day 5: In the morning, we have time for sightseeing at the most important sights of Lhasa: the Potala Palace, the former residence of the Dalai Lama and the Jokhan Cemetery which shows us the rich culture of this beautiful country.
Day 6: Today we start travelling to Shigatse (3800m), the second largest town in Tibet, where we will spend the night at a decent but clean hotel.
Day 7: Transfer to Tingri at 4300m. The accommodation is again very simple, but the food isstill very good!
Day 8: A day of rest for everyone in order to acclimatize. Again, beautiful 5000m high hill to hike. One wonders about the sheep with their shepherds, because it is even more barren here.
Day 9: Transfer to the Everest base camp (driver`s camp) at 5200m.
Day 10 -12: Rest days for acclimatization and for organizing the loads for the yaks.
Day 13: Ascent to the middle camp at 6200m on the way to the advanced base camp (ABC).
Day 14: Arrival to the ABC at 6400m. Here you’ll feel the benefits of the pre-acclimatization in the high altitude tents at home.
Days 15 – 51: Careful acclimatization with a climb to approximately 7500m. Our Sherpa team will set up three high camps at 7000m (North Col), 7800m and 8300m. The actual ascent of Mount Everest is scheduled between the 15th and 26th of May, during which time most of the successful summit days took place in the past. Then we wait for the right weather for our first summit attempt. After the steep glacier climb to the North Col we`ll stay in Camp1, following the less demanding north ridge which later leads to the northeast ridge we stay in Camp2 at about 7800m and Camp3 at 8300m. From here we cross below the northeast ridge to the north-west flank and then back to the ridge with the secured 1st, 2nd and 3rd step and finally we tackle the summit slope. From Camp 2 onwards, oxygen is available. At Camps 3 and 4, we will also sleep with oxygen. There is plenty of time for a few days of rest and a second try at the summit.
Day 52: Return trip ABC – BC
Days 53 – 54: Transfer back to Kathmandu with an anticipated stay of one night at the halfway point.
Day 55: Kathmandu.
Day 56: Return travel.
- All expedition organization costs
- International Economy Flight to Kathmandu (Business Class on request)
- State certified (UIAGM/IFMGA) German / English speaking mountain guide throughout the expedition
- 4 nights in an upscale hotel in Kathmandu in a twin room (single room supplement)
- All transfers including transport from Kathmandu – Everest BC – Kathmandu in off-road vehicles
- Customs clearance at the Chinese (Tibetan) border
- Full board for the duration of the trip (except in Kathmandu — breakfasts only)
- Drinks during group meals (except alcoholic beverages)
- Twin room for stop-overs on way to base camp
- Baggage transport to base camp and back (max 40kg baggage per person)
- 1 Two-roomed tent with bed at base camp per person
- Sleep mat for ABC
- High camp equipment (tents, cooker, gas, crockery, food)
- All safety equipment for the route
- Use of fixed ropes along the route
- Waste transport away from base camp
- High altitude porters and climbing Sherpas (1:1 Sherpa client ratio on summit day)
- Oxygen package provided by Summit Oxygen with mask & regulator and 8 bottles per participant
- Hypoxic tent and generator for 6 weeks prior to expedition
- Insurance and equipment for Nepalese staff
- Emergency medical oxygen
- First aid kit, high altitude emergency medicine, pulsoxymeter
- Kitchen crew
- Comfortable, heated group tent, shower tent, etc. at base camp
- Satellite communications (WIFI, laptop, solar battery charger)
- Two-way radio for each climber
- All summit fees & permits
- Weather updates
- Safety and reassurance of an Austrian tour operator
- Lunches and non-group dinners in Kathmandu
- Excess baggage fees on included flights
- Personal insurance
- Visa for Nepal (available at the airport, multiple entry 100 days USD 100, bring a passport photo!)
- Personal medications
- Alcoholic beverages
- Personal mountain and climbing equipment
- Sleeping bag for base camp and high camp
- Charges for satellite phone use, emails
- Summit bonus for personal climbing Sherpas
single room surcharge € 500,-
The FA Team continues to prove year after year they are a top expedition organizer & leader. 2019 was no different. Are you going into the Baltoro, up a Tibetan 8,000m route, or to a similar big mountain objective? If so, Furtenbach Adventures is a sound choice. The principles & standards FA deliver on make a significant experiential difference when you're on the mountain. My most recent FA climbing team enjoyed thorough pre-trip organizing/prep, amazing food quality through to the last moment of the trip, impressive camp infrastructure, and world-class guides. On top of that, their climber selection process yielded an incredibly strong team to which I was fortunate to join. Taken as a whole, the FA Team was one of the strongest on the mountain during the 2019 Everest season. I would not hesitate to choose Furtenbach Adventures for any high-consequence expedition in the future. Lukas is of course fantastic. The FA team members he surrounds himself with are also fantastic (e.g. Patricia, Luis, Rupert, FA's Makalu Posse, & more).
Dear Lukas, I would like to send you a very big THANK YOU for making my dream possible. I participated various expeditions during the last years, but I have never seen a better set-up than yours during the 2018 Everest North SIDE Expedition. What you offered was just perfect, professional and safe. I have spent more than seven weeks with your company and team. To be honest there is no single point I could complain about. The entire set-up like equipment, staff, Sherpas, guide, food, hygiene, weather forecast was the best I have seen in any expedition. Staff and Sherpas are always doing the hardest job at the mountain, but what your guys where pulling off was just amazing. The mountain and the surprises mother nature has are hard enough for the rest Furtenbach is a guarantee that things that could be under control, are under control. I always recommend your company to my friends and there would be only one operator for my next expedition, it would be Furtenbach. Thanks a lot! Viele Grüße! Dennis
The expedition was so well organized, staffed, and executed that I won't climb an 8000m peak with any other guide service. It's tough for me to think about what the Furtenbach team could do better because the expedition was so well done. Most importantly, the guide and Sherpa teams were very, very experienced. I'd argue that they were the most experienced group on the mountain. I noticed right away that they tended to be a bit older, more mature, and had more summits than other teams. The lead Sherpa, Mingma, had summited 22 times and was tied for 2nd most summits ever. Our lead guide, Rupert, had not only climbed Everest solo without oxygen and without Sherpa support but also he performed a harrowing rescue of a snowblind climber 300 feet below the summit. My personal Sherpa partner Renji had 8 summits, and all the Sherpa that partnered with the members had summited before, often from both North and South sides. These are people you want to have around if something unexpected were to happen. Second, the Furtenbach team screens the other members very well. This allowed the team to move and function safely. Naturally, if there is one person on a team struggling or in trouble, then all resources should and do rush to that person to help them. Furtenbach prevents this as best they can by making sure all the members are truly qualified and prepared for the climb – with enough experience and prior summits to safely and successfully climb Everest. It’s important to them not only that they summit each year, but also that every member does so – therefore, they screen members well, and as a result, every member benefits. This is unique and rare and yet of the utmost importance. Finally, the accommodations, camps, and food were amazing. My team joked that we all came back from our Everest climb fatter because Thiren and the kitchen staff made such good food. We ate dinner at a table with armchairs and dessert every night except the 3 to 4 nights above 20,000 feet. Additionally, no one on my team had any GI or stomach issues, which speaks to the high hygiene standards of the kitchen. It’s almost inevitable that each climber will experience GI/stomach issues during an expedition, so the fact that none of us did with Furtenbach speaks volumes of their standards, staff, and quality. I highly encourage my climber friends who want to climb Everest to do so with Furtenbach. A friend who had climbed Everest twice (second time without oxygen) recommended Furtenbach. It’s the best Everest advice I ever received, and I want my friends to be safe and successful. I’m happy to talk with any prospective Furtenbach climbers directly (email@example.com).
In spring 2018 I had the amazing experience of climbing Mount Everest together with Furtenbach Adventures. In short – it was marvelous. Previous to the trip I have done quite a lot of research on different providers and options. And as you are probably aware, there are many in the market. In retrospective, I must say that it was just fantastic. Lukas Furtenbach and his team are doing an outstanding job. - Pre-trip organization: It was just perfectly organized. There were continuous updates that gave full transparency and clarity on progress and planning. It was just so easy to follow, and not even one moment of doubt or ambiguity. - Pre-acclimatization: The pre-acclimatization at home was definitely worth it. Especially when climbing from the north side, where you arrive in the base camp quite quickly. Nobody of the team had any problems with the altitude. We arrived in basecamp and were extremely fit and felt great! When I looked at other camps the picture was quite worse at some points – lots of suffering and illness. - Base camp: The base camp is just fantastic. The tents are great, ranging from the supreme, heated living room tent, to the cozy dining tent, shower tent, our private sleeping tents – all perfect. The food and kitchen were astonishing. The kitchen team provided excellent food (up to 7000m actually), snacks and drinks were available all the time and everywhere. Like living in a giant supermarket with a personal chef. - Climbing: We were doing 3 rounds in total which shown to be super effective. First round was to ABC (for two days), second to 7300m and third to summit and back. The approach ensured that nobody of the team felt sick at all. While the moving days were given, I was quite happy that everybody was able to walk on his on (slower or faster than the others). There was always a possibility to get accompanied by a Sherpa (or Rupert) which gave us all the feeling of safety and freedom at all times. Overall, it was astonishing. The team is absolute great, super nice, funny and helpful at all times. Rupert (our guide) did an outstanding job – an absolute dream team with the Sherpas. Feel free to contact me in case of questions. Best Michael Lutz (firstname.lastname@example.org)