With guides Ben Jones, Eric Murphy and Jangbu Sherpa leading the way, our 2019 team had over 90% success rate and all team members who started with us, completed the expedition! We encourage you to chat with last year’s climbing team! And we also offer a Camp II climb.
Please note the following:
- Scheduled lead guide for 2021: Ben Jones along with Jangbu Sherpa and Eric Murphy.
- Lakpa Rita Sherpa is our 2021 Everest expedition manager
- As in past years, we offer 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio (on summit day)
- Our climber-to-guide ratio is 4:1 or less
- Wi-Fi available at Base Camp
- We provide oxygen above Camp II and a four-liter flow from High Camp onward
- We are committed to small team size, operating one fully guided expedition for increased safety, climber care, and environmental concerns at Base Camp
- We are offering the Everest-Lhotse combo climb
- Consistent with past years, we are committed to wages on the high end of the pay scale for Sherpa team and staff, often setting industry standards
Our 2021 team will be led by Alpine Ascents’ Everest guide Ben Jones along with Jangbu Sherpa and Eric Murphy. As always, we will employ our famed Sherpa staff. Our Sherpa team is legendary throughout the climbing community and will be the mainstay of our summit support team. The Sherpa team, organized by Lakpa Rita Sherpa, will set the route and manage a quality Base Camp, which is renowned throughout the great tent city at the foot of the mountain. We look to bestow our traditions and expertise on every climber.
Similar to past years, we are committed to high-quality logistics, using low ratio guiding with professional mountain guides, and leading small groups of climbers supported by a strong Sherpa team. Research shows that the Alpine Ascents’ guiding style has a much higher success rate (as much as 50% higher), than less supported climbing teams.
Mt. Everest, rising 8,850 m (29,035 ft.) above sea level reigns as the highest mountain on Earth. Since the first ascent in 1953 by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, reaching the summit of Everest has been considered one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering. Every spring, Alpine Ascents International embraces this challenge, taking a group of qualified climbers to climb Mt. Everest via the South Col route in Nepal.
With over 25 years of guiding experience on Everest, Alpine Ascents is recognized as the premier guide service to provide you a truly rewarding experience climbing to the summit of the highest mountain in the world. We are known for the quality of our logistical services and the expertise of our guides, Sherpa team, and Base Camp staff. We have the latest technology in weather forecasting and communication systems both on and off the mountain. Our Base Camp services, which provide private tents and well-
prepared meals by western trained chefs allow you to relax and regain strength when returning from your acclimation climbs.
On the mountain, our guides and Sherpa are focused on your welfare and safety. Our philosophy is that by working together as a team we will climb safer and have more climbers reach the summit. Through leadership and excellent climber care, this has proven true year after year, giving us the highest success rate on the mountain and an excellent safety record.
Alpine Ascents has always been on the cutting edge of innovations in guiding. In 1991, we co-founded the Russian company, Poisk, and designed the Poisk Oxygen Cylinder, which is still the lightest and most efficient bottle used on the mountain today. In 1992, we led the first successful guided expedition to Everest along with Rob Hall’s team. That year we also introduced the idea of (and helped facilitate) bringing Russian Mi-17 helicopters to Nepal to provide more reliable expedition transportation to the mountain. Alpine Ascents pioneered the idea of a 24-hour Everest and Lhotse summit climb, and in 2012, we led the first guided expedition up Everest and Lhotse, putting three climbers on top of two 8,000 m peaks in under 24 hours. This had never been achieved before, guided or otherwise.
We are proud to look back at the many years of achieving these goals and supporting over 300 climbers in stepping foot on the summit of Mt. Everest. Looking forward to 2020, we plan to continue our well-maintained expeditions with extremely experienced climbing guides, Sherpa with years of climbing expertise and unparalleled Base Camp and ground support.
Depart country of origin.
Transit (overnight en route).
Arrive Kathmandu. You’ll check into the renowned Yak and Yeti Hotel, a cornerstone of the Kathmandu scene, and attend a welcome dinner with other trekkers and climbers.
Kathmandu. Gear Check.
After final administration requirements, we’ll fly via Twin Otter to the landing strip in Lukla. Weather permitting, this flight offers outstanding views of the eastern Himalayas. In Lukla, we meet and join our Sherpa staff, load the yaks and begin the ascent to Base Camp. Our first day is an easy walk to lush environs of Phakding, located on the Dudh Kosi river. Hiking time: 3-4 hours
We’ll follow the Dudh Kosi, ascending 2,300 ft./700m through Himalayan pine and Doedar cedar forests, to the celebrated village of Namche Bazaar (11,300 ft./3,444m). The village of Namche is an historic trading post where Nepalese and Tibetan traders exchange salt, dried meat, gold and textiles. Besides being a superb place to shop for traditional crafts, Namche remains the central trading post in the Khumbu, attracting Himalayan and lowland merchants. Our group will spend two days in Namche, affording us the opportunity to acclimate, visit local markets and spend time with friends in town. On the hike, we’ll capture our first glimpses of Everest and neighboring peaks. Hiking time: 5-6 hours
In the morning, we’ll take an acclimatization hike, gaining 1,000 feet to take in the amazing mountain vista. In the afternoon, we’ll have time to visit sights in Namche Bazaar, including the local marketplace.
On perhaps one of the most fascinating days of the trek, we’ll travel to the village of Thame (12,464 ft./3,800m), off the main trekking path. We’ll have the unique opportunity of visiting the home of Lakpa Rita Sherpa, our Sirdar (lead Sherpa) and Everest climbing guide. His family has been a mainstay of this small community, raising yaks and farming. This gives us an intimate view of Sherpa culture while visiting a traditional home. Interestingly enough, a number of famous climbing Sherpa have come from Thame. The Thame experience is one rarely afforded to trekkers. After lunch, we climb to the Thame monastery and further explore local Buddhism. We’ll tour this 400 year-old gompa (monastery) and learn about its inner workings and the lives of its monks. As we view the monastery, we’ll discuss the wall paintings and artifacts that are central to Buddhist practice. Hiking time: 5 hours
From Thame, we’ll walk to the beautiful twin villages of Khunde and Khumjung (12,400 ft./3780m), two of the largest villages in the Khumbu and home of Sir Edmund Hillary’s hospital and school. The day’s walk is moderate and pretty, winding through thick cedar forest. Hiking time: 6 hours
We’ll continue on and climb to the village of Tengboche (12,683 ft./3865m), the cultural and religious center of the Khumbu. At the monastery we’ll attend Buddhist ceremonies and rituals performed by local monks. Vistas from Tengboche are spectacular. The jagged peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega stand to our south, as Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam are visible to the north. The Monastery at Tengboche is one of the most well-known in the world, as the Rinpoche is revered throughout the Buddhist community, and has authored a number of books and essays.
Views from this locale (one of the finest on earth), include Kwangde (20,293 ft./6,185m), Tawachee (21,457 ft./6540m), Nuptse (25,843 ft./7876m), Lhotse 27,883ft/8498m, Everest 29,029ft/8848m, Ama Dablam 22,487ft/6,854m), Kantega (22,235 ft./6,777m), Thamserku (21,674 ft./6,606m). Hiking time: 4-5 hours
We’ll climb to the village of Pheriche (13,907 ft./4,238m), which is not far from Dingboche (a village en route to Island Peak). Pheriche has become famous for its high-altitude medical clinic. The clinic attracts world-renowned physicians who from time to time acquire data to analyze the effects of high altitude on human physiology. We’ll visit the clinic and learn more about the effects of high altitude on Himalayan climbers. Hiking time: 4 hours. We’ll also spend an additional day further acclimatizing and hiking.
Above Pheriche, the character of the terrain changes, and we’ll begin to understand the starkness of the high alpine landscape. Our path climbs the terminal moraine of the Khumbu glacier and continues to the settlement of Lobuche (16,174 ft./4,929m), where we’ll spend one night. This trail passes through a famous memorial that honors the many Sherpa who lost their lives in the high mountains. Lobuche is located on the flank of an old lateral moraine of the Khumbu glacier. Hiking time: 4-5 hours
We’ll leave Lobuje and eventually cross the moraine of the great Khumbu Glacier to reach Base Camp, which lies beneath the sweeping ridges of Everest and Nuptse. Everest Base Camp at 17,598 ft./5,364 m, is a sprawling tent city set amidst glacial debris. There, the climbers will begin final preparations for their ascent of Mt. Everest. Conditions permitting, we will venture to the edge of the notorious Khumbu Icefall to see climbers en route as they negotiate this complex maze of ice. Overnight at Base Camp. Hiking time: six hours.
Day 15 – Base Camp
Years of experience have helped us to establish the finest Base Camp (17,598 ft./5,364 m) on the mountain with the highest quality tent structures, including private sleeping tents. Our dinning tent is carpeted and heated with Wi-Fi and a movie screen is available. We provide hot showers at your request. We have western-trained cooks that prepare fresh local products as well as imported foods. We strive to ensure that the time at Base Camp is restful and revitalizing. By providing these accommodations, we make every effort to keep climbers healthy and rested.
Here we take a leisurely day at Everest Base Camp, enjoy morning tea at our tent, and spend the day checking out the life at Base Camp. We will spend time watching the daily preparations of our climbing team, taking a look at how meals are prepared, and have a chance to meet our Everest Sherpa staff.
General Climbing Schedule: schedule on the mountain is approximate and subject to changing conditions. Delays/early departures can occur.
Climbing route: By the time we reach Base Camp, our climbing leaders and Sherpa will be well on the way to having the lower part of the mountain (the Khumbu Icefall) already fixed with ropes and ladders. We’ll establish four camps on the mountain. The first, Camp I, at 19,500 ft./5,943 m, is situated at the top of the icefall. This camp functions as an intermediate camp until Camp II (Advanced Base Camp) is established at 21,000 ft./6,400 m in the Western Cwm. Camp II will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping. Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500 ft./7,162 m and 26,300 ft./8,016 m respectively).
Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse Face, will consist of three- and four-man tents. This intermediate camp helps us to reach Camp IV (High Camp) on the South Col. Most of our Sherpa are able to carry directly from Camp II to Camp IV, so large amounts of gear are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp II to help aid climbers in reaching High Camp before attempting the summit. From Camp IV, we’ll travel along the Southeast Ridge to the South Summit. From there, we’ll traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the Hillary Step and then onto the main summit.
Summit attempts: After Camps III and IV are established and all our supplies are in place, we return to Base Camp (and lower villages) for a rest. At Base Camp, we’ll organize our summit teams and prepare ourselves for summit attempts. Once we are ready, we’ll return to Advanced Base. If good weather prevails, we’ll move the summit team to Camp III. On the second day, the summit team will move up to Camp IV. Day 3 will be summit day. We’ll start very early that morning and attempt to reach the summit before midday. After the summit, we’ll retreat back to the South Col and the next day descend to Camp II. Guides and Sherpa will accompany all summit attempts and climbers will use oxygen.
Fly to KTM.
Arrive in home country.
- Two nights’ accommodations in Kathmandu before climb
- All food and lodging during the trek and climb. No expense is spared in providing high-quality food from the USA and Nepal. If you have particular dietary requirements, please give us specific details and we will accommodate your needs.
- Unlimited access to a medical doctor in Base Camp
- All transportation in Nepal, including round-trip flights from Kathmandu to Lukla/Syangboche
- All group equipment needed to reach Base Camp and climb the mountain: cooking gear, fuel, stoves, ropes, all forms of rock and ice protection, radio communications, oxygen, medical supplies, etc.
- Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, camp staff, and guides
- Wi-Fi available – fees to apply
- All administration fees owed to Nepal, including climbing permit.
- $25 wire transfer fee (if applicable)
- International round-trip airfare (USA-Nepal-USA)
- Meals in Kathmandu and hotels after the climb (once the climber has left the mountain)
- Personal gear, clothing and sleeping equipment (see Gear List)
- Insurance. Climbers are required to have a comprehensive medical insurance policy in order to embark on this expedition.
- Trip cancellation insurance. This is highly recommended and can be purchased through Alpine Ascents.
- Comprehensive medical exam. A physician-signed medical release form is required.
- Alcoholic beverages and bottled drinks
- All expenses incurred in the event of early departure (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.)
- Personal Items
- Charges incurred as a result of delays beyond the control of Alpine Ascents International
- Personal communication (phone, fax, email) between Nepal and home country
- A medical evacuation insurance policy is mandatory. Available through Alpine Ascents (included in our standard Cancellation/Refund Policy.)
WHAT IS THE SKILL LEVEL OF THIS CLIMB?
Climbers should have a well-proven track record of high-altitude climbs, Denali, Cho Oyu, or 8,000 m peaks are most relevant. Most climbers begin with our mountaineering school and then climb more challenging peaks, taking on greater altitude. Training courses and climbs on Rainier, Ecuador Volcanoes, and Denali are the most common path. We are happy to email our “From Mountaineering School to Everest” brief and work with you individually.
WHAT IS THE PHYSICAL CONDITIONING LEVEL NEEDED FOR THIS CLIMB?
Climbers must be in excellent physical condition. This is a long expedition requiring patience, stamina, mental fortitude, and strong willpower. Summit day can be 20 hours long.
ANY TIPS ON HOW CLIMBERS CAN MAXIMIZE THEIR CHANCES OF SUCCESS?
Along with the required climbing skills, review cardio training on the Everest Training page. We strongly recommend following the advice of our guides to acclimatize properly.
WHO IS THE GUIDING TEAM COMPOSED OF (HOW MANY GUIDES? CLIMBER-TO-GUIDE RATIO?)
Your expedition leader will be one of our professional mountain guides. We are well known for our expert guides and climber-to-guide ratio and invite you to read our Why Climb Everest With Us page.
WHAT IS THE BEST SEASON TO CLIMB / WHICH DATES WILL HAVE THE MOST CHANCE FOR SUCCESS?
The best time to climb Everest is in the Spring, April–May.