Matterhorn Summit

Introduction

The Matterhorn is one of the world's most iconic mountains. From the mountain village of Zermatt, its profile is unmistakable as your gaze is drawn towards the foreboding north face and striking north east ridge of the Hörnligrat. On the tick list of every aspiring Alpinist, the mountain is also famous for its difficulty in less than perfect conditions. Thesedays the loose north face is rarely climbed outside of the autumn and winter months when it is frozen and there is less risk from stonefall, and the two easiest routes; the Hörnli ridge and Lion ridge need to be clear of snow to be attempted at anything like the guidebook grade. Even when the east face is visibly free of snow and the Hörnligrat is dry, climbers need to be competent at rock and mixed climbing in crampons, as crampons are typically required above the 'Shoulder'.

The aim of the week is to attempt the Hörnli ridge from Zermatt (though there may be circumstances where the Guides' prefer to climb the Lion ridge from Cervinia, on the Italian side). Both are a similar grade, though the Lion ridge has more fixed ropes on it. You will start in Chamonix, where the focus will be on preparing for the Matterhorn, with ascents on rock and mixed terrain. You will also need to get acclimatised by spending at least one night in a mountain hut. On Wednesday morning you'll transfer to Zermatt and have three days set aside to attempt the mountain.

Experience Required

The Matterhorn Summit week is suitable for Alpinists with previous experience climbing Alpine routes of AD and above. The ascent from the Hörnli hut typically takes 4 - 5 hours, with a similar time required to descend. Please contact us with your Alpine climbing CV and a reference from a Mountain Guide if you have not climbed with Jagged Globe previously, before booking this course.

Please note that any progress onto the Matterhorn is dependent on the weather forecast, the route being in condition (free of snow) and on the Guides' approval of your climbing ability. In short, if the mountain is out of condition, you will climb something else and if the Guide or Course Director doesn't think you are ready of the Matterhorn, you will have the option of climbing something else in the Zermatt valley. A flexible approach is also necessary to make the best use of the weather during the week.