MATTERHORN, HÖRNLI RIDGE (CH)
The ascent to the summit of the Matterhorn (4,478 m) from the Hörnli Ridge on the Swiss side follows in the footsteps of the first mountaineers who conquered this perfect pyramid. A challenging yet invaluable experience for every mountaineer.
While technically less difficult than the Lion Ridge, this ascent itinerary to Matterhorn summit on Hornli Ridge is by no means easy nor should it be underestimated. The mountain’s sheer size, the route’s length and complexity, its countless hidden dangers, paired with the altitude and harsh environment, make this an extremely challenging ascent. The climb should only be attempted with stable weather, route in good conditions and proper preparation. What’s more, it is important to pay attention at all times and especially during the descent.
Drop: 680 m
Acent time: 2 hours
Meeting point: meeting in Zermatt for equipment check and a short briefing.
We take the lifts up to the Schwarzsee station (2,583 m). An easy trail leads us to the Hörnli Hut, a picturesque refuge at the feet of the Hörnli Ridge. The view of Matterhorn from here is breathtaking.
Drop: 1,220 m
Ascent/descent time: 10-12 hours
We set out from the hut around 5 am. The route is fairly intense and challenging all the way to the summit, which affords some mind-blowing views. The descent, by the same route, can be intimidating and is as challenging as the ascent, if not more.
- the assistance of a UIAGM certified Mountain Guide
- liability insurance
- loan of shared safety material
- research and rescue insurance with UVGAM coverage (recommended): €5 per person for 3 days
- the hiring of any personal equipment (harness, ice axe, crampons and helmet): €20/day per person while supplies last
- the Mountain Guide’s expenses (lifts, transfers, meals and accommodation)
- transfers, meals and accommodation
- transfer: Great St. Bernard tunnel return ticket €44.60 per person; parking in Tasch; train from Tasch to Zermatt return ticket CHF 10 per person (if you come from Italy)
- half-board in mountain huts: €150 per person at Hörnlihutte, beverages not included
- lifts: return ticket for Zermatt-Schwarzsee cableway CHF44 per person
- anything that is not mentioned under "The rate includes"