Manaslu is the 8th highest peak in the world. Located in the east of the Annapurna region, Manaslu dominates the Gurkha Valley skyline. Manalsu is also referred to as “The Mountain of Spirits”. This expedition can be your first entry expedition into 8000M altitude and is a must for any aspiring mountaineers who are considering climbing other 8000M peaks in Nepal, China, or Pakistan. Primarily because the Manaslu climb gives you the same strenuous and challenging climbing experiences, climbing through the death zone to the summit, and following the same high altitude strategies of climbing Everest or other major expeditions.
Pre-requisite experiences (at least one 6000M & 7000M + multi-pitch climbing & ice climbing): Lobuche East & Island Peak, Chulu West, Khumbu 3 Peak expeditions, Mt, Blanc, Baruntse peak, Himlung Himal, Ama Dablam. (Similar 4000M - 6000M peaks or higher), multi-pitch climb (rock or ice), rock climbing grade up to 5-9+/- to 5.10 a,b,c, and Ice climbing WI-3 to WI-4.
Our expedition begins with a helicopter flight to Samagaun 3690M on the third day of the expedition (trek Manaslu trails for anyone wanting to trek and reach the village, additional 5 days are required in the itinerary). After acclimatizing for a day in the village we begin our climb to Manaslu base camp 4800M where our camps will already have been set up by our expedition management, Sherpa & porter teams. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and it culminates in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape and is a dominant feature when seen from afar. Please read below the Manaslu Expedition strategy for more detailed climbing strategies.
This expedition is also a part of our “Road to EVEREST” program, Manalsu Expedition being the final preparation expedition before taking on the Big E.
*History: Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition.
• Manaslu 8163M Summit
• North East face route
• Helicopter to Sama Gaun and back to Kathmandu after the expedition. • 1:1 Guide/Client ratio during summit climb
• Camp 1 - 4 strategy with rotation and rest days
Camp 1 - Camp 4 and Summit of Manaslu
We ascend by the North East Face, utilizing four camps along the way. The climbing route from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a strenuous and hard climb where the team ascends moderate-angled snow slopes on the lower reaches with a short steep slope above Camp One. Climbing through steep slopes requires close attention, and is expected to take anywhere from 5 hours or more until you arrive at camp at 6,300m. The views from camp 2 really are breathtaking, and the peak of the mountain is getting visibly closer.
The route from camp 2 to camp 3 is mountain straight forward, requiring steady progress up some snow slopes, and one short but steep section, before arriving at 6,700m in 2-3 hours. Camp 3 to camp 4 is around 4 hours up rather steep slopes, relying on the fixed ropes and your crampons to get you up to 7,300m. We will be doing a frequent rotation of high camps to lower camps to get well acclimatized before making the final ascend to the summit.
The move from camp 4 to the summit is not as technical between the camps, but longer and requires more steady progress over the rolling snow slopes, but now with the final target in your sights up ahead. The views all around this section are as incredible as you can imagine they would be heading towards the 8,000m point. After around 5-6 hours you will arrive at the ‘false summit’ where a lot of the operators end their summit bid but Namas Expedition Sherpa team will always aim to fix the rope to the ‘true summit’ which is the highest point for Manaslu but requires much care due to the unstable nature of the snow.
Descending the mountain is quick and straight forward but equal care is required as clients will be tired after the summit. Making it to the summit is halfway there so our objective will be to reach camp 2 safely by the afternoon or early evening hours. The very next day then descent from camp 2 to base camp should take 3 hours to ready for a nice lunch. The way home involves the same trek back down into Samagaon, followed by a night here before catching the helicopter back to Kathmandu where will have another two nights at the Kathmandu hotel for well-deserved celebrations, showers and rest, before departing back to your homes.
Manaslu is for enthusiast climbers who aim to go high into 8000M+. You will need your fitness and climbing skills to be able to look after yourself for long hours during the climb according to the terrain. You should be able to take care of yourself even during the tough climb session, eating well and staying hydrated from the start of the expedition, making sure your gears are in check and functional during the climb. Your Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within your ability to climb and you will be liable to yourself.
The more experience you have rock climbing tougher routes in different types of rock the better it is for you to get familiar with climbing and adjusting during the expeditions.
Abseiling: This is the simplest yet one of the most important skills to master. Some multi-pitch abseiling knowledge/experience is also required
Climbing on different terrains: Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.
Use of Crampons and Ice axe: Winter ice climbing or mountaineering courses are recommended. You should be able to kick step and balance with an ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on the vertical climbs. Ice arrest skills to save yourself in case of slips or falls, being comfortable while descending and abseiling on crampons in all terrains.
Climbing in Altitude: Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of your body coping in altitude. You will be liable to yourself so it is best to build your fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatization but you will also have to be aware of your eating pattern and stay properly hydrated.
MANASLU ITINERARY (+7 Days via trekking to Samagoan)
Day 1 Arrival, Airport pick up by Namas members
Day 2 Briefing and equipment review at hotel in Kathmandu, last minute shopping, group dinner. Stay at hotel.
Day 3 Fly to SamaGaun, 3,690 meters (12,106 feet)
Day 4 Rest in SamaGaun. Acclimatization, re-packing and preparation for Expedition. Day 5 Hike 6-7 hours to base camp, 4,800 meters (15,748ft).
Day 6 - 9 Rest in basecamp. Acclimatization, training (Crampon works/Abseil/climb Fixed line/ Ladder climbing training), and Puja (Ceremony)
Day 10 Climb to camp 1 return base camp
Day 11 Rest in base camp
Day 13 Climb to camp 1 and sleep there.
Day 14 Climb to Camp 2. Return to base camp.
Day 15 Rest in base camp.
Day 16 Rest in base camp.
Day 17 Climb to camp 1 and sleep there.
Day 18 Climb to camp 2 and sleep there.
Day 19 Climb to camp 3. Return to base camp.
Day 20 Rest in base camp. Acclimatise Regain strength.
Day 21 Rest in base camp. Regain strength and training
Day 22 Rest in base camp.
Day 23 Climb to camp 1 and sleep here
Day 24 Climb to camp 2 and sleep here
Day 25 Climb to camp 3 and sleep here
Day 26 Climb to Camp 4. Sleep
Day 27 Summit attempt
Day 29 Summit attempt, descend to camp 2. Sleep here
*Climbing note Day 29 to 35. Seven days of contingency climbing day’s in case of bad weather and adjustment on climbing strategy)
Day 36 Pack and prepare to depart. Trek to SamaGoan.
Day 37 Fly to Kathmandu
Day 38 Celebration Banquet. Packing and final shopping in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel Day 39 Departure or Further extend your stay in Nepal
*Schedule subject to change based on route conditions, weather conditions, and climber health.