Makalu is an impressive mountain mass of red granite located 22 kilometers (14 miles) east of Mount Everest in Makalu-Barun National Park northeast region of Nepal is the world's 5th highest mountain. Nepal and Tibet border is separated by the Makalu summit ridge. The name Makalu is derived from the Sanskrit word “Maha Kali” (the Great Black Goddesses), a name for the Hindu goddess in Nepali. If we may judge by photographs…. “Makalu is incomparable for its spectacular rugged grandeur.” This was the view what the great George Mallory had expressed, who as part of the Everest Reconnance 1921 was the first foreigner to be able to observe Makalu from close proximity
The first attempt to ascent of Makalu was by the French team in 1934 from the Tibetan side, as Nepal was still closed to foreigners, but the Lhasa government rescinded which was given OK before. After overthrown of the Rana dynasty in 1950, Nepal was open to the outside world and since then many expeditions have been carried out to this region including ourselves that we organize almost every year.
Our caravan route for the Makalu expedition will be from Tumlingtar-Tashigaon and finally to Makalu Base camp. There were as many as three expeditions who used this approach route climbing Makalu in 1954: American expedition led by Willi Siri, Edmund Hillary and French team led by Jean Franco. After gaining lots of experience from the 1954 expedition most of the same expedition members formed and a team and the entire team reached to the summit of Makalu in 1955 on 15th 16th and 17th May. The members included Jean Couzy, Leonel Terray, Franco, Magnone, Bouvier, Leroux, Coupe, Vialatte). It was also the first record in mountaineering that the entire team had reached to the summit. Then there after an international Team led by Hermann Warth, Germany climbed this mountain Makalu (8,463m / 27,767ft) & survived bivouac at 8250m on the descent.
There are few books written about Makalu expedition and one of the good books written on this expedition is by Hermann & Datelined Warth, Germany titled "Makalu Expedition in die Stille", ISBNin German version and the same book translated in English titled "Makalu in Simple Harmony", ISBNcontaining the details about their 1982 Makalu Expedition and Nga Temba was one of the Nepalese supporting climbers on this expedition.