Makalu guides

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• Bold Himalaya

  ERTI 3.75 overall

  Based in Nepal

About Makalu

Elevation

8,481 m (27,825 ft)

Country

Nepal

Climbing history

First ascent on May 15, 1955 by French expedition led by Jean Franco. At 8,485m, the fifth highest peak in the world. Known for its perfect pyramid shape and technical difficulty. Fewer than 400 successful ascents.

Notable itineraries

Makalu Base Camp Trek (18-22 days): Challenging trek through Arun Valley to base camp at 4,870m. Sherpani Col Trek: Technical mountaineering route crossing high passes to Everest region. Normal Route (climbers): Northwest ridge requiring advanced skills. West Face: Technical climbing route.

Weather and best time to go

Weather: During the climbing season, temperatures are generally warm in the valley on the approach to Makalu. Temperatures then drop rapidly as elevation is gained and are well below freezing at the summit. The spring climbing season generally means there is more snow on the mountain. Toward the end of the autumn climbing season, temperatures are the coldest., Best Time to Visit: April to May, September to October, Average Expedition Length 50 to 60 days

Currency

Nepalese Rupee (NPR) is the official currency. Very remote region with limited facilities. Combination of teahouse and camping required. Restricted area permits needed. Budget $3,500-5,000 for organized trek.

Languages

Official: Nepali. Regional: Rai, Sherpa languages in different valleys. The Arun Valley is home to diverse ethnic communities. English limited to guide staff. Rich biodiversity with rare wildlife.

Every review is checked by our team before it's published, and guides cannot pay for a better rating.

Recommended gear for Makalu

High-altitude essentials picked for 8,000m expeditions. Recommended by our expert team.

• Rab Expedition 8000 Suit (Men's) (8000m suit): View at CampSaver
• La Sportiva Olympus Mons S Boots (8000m boot): View at CampSaver
• Black Diamond Absolute Mitts (expedition mitts): View at CampSaver
• Rab Expedition 1200 Sleeping Bag (down sleeping bag): View at CampSaver
• Petzl Ascension Ascender (ascender): View at CampSaver
• Global Rescue membership (rescue and evacuation): View at Global Rescue

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The ERTI badge beside each name is a company-wide score out of 5, built from reviews we verify and many other factors. It is not a rating for this route.

Last updated 9 October 2026 (editorial review).

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Frequently asked questions

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Every review is checked by hand by our team before it's published. Critical reviews stay up, and paying ExpedReview never changes the ranking.

Which guides run trips to Makalu?

Bold Himalaya.