Day 1 - 7: Arrival in Islamabad and onwards journey to basecamp
Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad and meet-up at the Hotel in Islamabad
Free day for the participants while the expedition leader takes care of the last administrative formalities the authorities.
Day 2: A flight to Skardu awaits us. Expect beautiful views of the Pakistani mountains. Overnight stay at hotel in Skardu.
Day 3: We spend the day in the small but lively town of Skardu at 2300m. The carriers are organized, the luggage loaded, and you can run some last errands or go on a hike.
Day 4-7: Shortest possible way from Skardu to the base camp via Gondogoro pass. This usually takes around 4 days.
Day 8 - 21: Ascent to Basecamp and Broad Peak summit attempt
Day 8-21: We will have about two weeks for the ascent of Broad Peak, however we want to stay flexible due to weather and snow conditions as well as the participants‘ needs and requirements. We will set up 2-3 high camps. The first, which we could skip later on, will be situated on a small plateau following the first firn flank at 5700m which will be secured with fixed ropes. The next camp will be at ca. 6300m and the last one at 7100m.
The summit tour first takes us to the 7800m high saddle between the northern peak and the pre-summit, then via the wide ridge with a few easy climbs (second level of difficulty – here we will use a fixed rope) to the pre-summit. From here we easily (walking terrain) continue over a wide, gently sloping ridge that is by far not as long as often described, towards the main summit. This ridge is often blown off, facilitating easy advancement. If conditions are good, and participants are in a healthy and normal state, we can accomplish this in about half an hour there and 20 minutes back.
Day 22- 36: Ascent to K2
Day 22: The K2 aspirants undertake a comfortable 3 hour hike over the Godwin Austen glacier to our K2 base camp at 5100m.
Day 23-36: First, we rest and recharge our batteries, organize material and then wait for suitable weather for a direct ascent attempt via the Abbruzzi spur with 4 high camps. We will reach camp 1 at 6000m with relatively low difficult via a 40 degree steep Firn flank. From there it continues through snow gullies and mixed terrain to the first key point, the approximately 25m high House Chimney which will be secured with fixed ropes. Shortly thereafter we reach camp 2 at 6600m. The way to camp 3 is strongly dependent on the conditions. It’s a mix of snow slopes, rocky passages and mixed terrain with individual steep stretches until our south spur coincides with the east ridge (Black Pyramid). From here we follow the easier eastern ridge to camp 3 at 7350m. The route from Camp 3 to Camp 4 at about 7900m on the shoulder is a technically easy snow ridge.
In Camp 4, we see two things very prominently: the intoxicating panorama on one side and the dangerous serac with the infamous “Bottleneck” on the other side. This is the most dangerous part of the route. The bottleneck will be the key passage for the summit day and as such it will be secured accordingly with fixed ropes. At the latest from here on in, we will use oxygen which can help us master this dangerous passage faster and safer in both the ascent and the descent. Approximately 100m after the bottleneck the terrain becomes a bit more subdued, and a few more meters of a simple snow slope lead us to the summit.
Weather permitting, we may have time for a second summit attempt. Again, we recommend to book a flexible return flight, so that we can extend the expedition for a few days if necessary or travel home earlier if we successfully complete the expedition ahead of schedule.
Day 37 - 42: Return, Islamabad and journey home
Day 37-40: The group makes their way back to Skardu via the shorter route over the Gondogoro pass or stay at a smaller base camp with reduced service (without a guide?) for another summit attempt, in case the first one was not successful. The way back to Islamabad is organized for the group, an individually planned return is available at extra cost. Overnight stay in tents and in the hotel in Skardu.
Day 41: Flight back to Islamabad from Skardu. Finally back in civilization, we will enjoy a good nights sleep in nice beds in a hotel in Islamabad.
Day 42: Islamabad or flight back home.