Gasherbrum I Overview

Situated in the heart of the extremely remote Karakoram Mountains, Gasherbrum I is the second tallest mountain in the range, the third tallest in Pakistan and the eleventh highest on Earth.

Also known as Hidden Peak, due to its remote location, the mountain is located within a group of peaks that sit atop the massive Baltoro glacier and form a semi-circle around the South Gasherbrum Glacier.

As a result, not only is the approach to the peak a challenging trek, but the climb itself is full of technical difficulties. For these reasons, Gasherbrum I is the least climbed 8,000-metre (26,200-foot) peak in the world.

However, these factors also make it one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. For advanced trekkers, heading to the peak’s base camp is a popular, but challenging, way to spend a month

Quick Facts about Gasherbrum I

When Gasherbrum I was first mapped by the English, it was named K5, following suit with other mountains in the region. However the name eventually changed back to Gasherbrum, which means beautiful mountain in the native language.
Due to the combination of its remote location and level of difficulty required to climb, only about 200 people have successfully made it to the summit of Gasherbrum I, most of whom are professional mountaineers.
The western side of the mountain is the one most commonly climbed side as it is easier to ascend and access. However, climbing from the Chinese side of the border offers some of the most spectacular views of the mountain range.

History of Gasherbrum I

Gasherbrum I was first seen by Westerners in 1856 during Thomas George Montgomerie’s survey of the Indian subcontinent for the British army. He named the peak K5, with the K standing for Karakoram followed by a number.

The first attempt to climb the peak came in 1934 when a large international expedition led by Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth made it to 6,300 metres (20,670 feet) before having to turn back.

After this initial attempt, there was another attempt in 1936, in which a French expedition made it to 6,900 metres (22,640 feet) before also having to turn back.

The first successful ascent of the peak came more than two decades later in 1958 when an American expedition led by Nicholas Clinch made it to the summit via the Roch ridge.

Experience Required for Climbing Gasherbrum I

Gasherbrum I is widely considered to be one of the toughest 8000ers to climb. The ascent is long and requires a mix of technical snow and ice climbing. The approach is also challenging and requires scrambling as well as glacier travel.

Among the many challenges involved with climbing Gasherbrum I, the altitude is one of the biggest. The vast majority of the ascent takes place at more than 6,000 metres (19,700 feet), so plenty of time is required to acclimatise and climbers should be in excellent physical condition.

The main route up the peak is also quite exposed, which makes climbers vulnerable to the rapidly changing weather conditions found in this part of Pakistan, so previous experience at high altitude is a must.

Main Routes up Gasherbrum I

While there are several different routes that lead up to the summit of Gasherbrum I, the vast majority begin from the western side of the mountain, where the only base camp is located.

None of the routes are climbed frequently enough for there to be a normal route, but the northwest ridge and the south ridge are among those most commonly taken. The Roch ridge and south face are also climbed.

Each of these requires highly technical snow and ice climbing before arriving at the Japanese couloir at the top of the northwest face. From here, climbers make the final ascent up to the summit.

Gasherbrum I Expedition

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