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  2. Gasherbrum I
  3. Gasherbrum II
  4. Gasherbrum I & II Expedition
1.4
1 Ratings

Gasherbrum I & II Expedition

Summit Climb Germany
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  • Overview
  • Itinerary
  • Inclusions
  • Reviews

The traverse of these two beautiful 8,000 meter high pyramids was made by Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander in 1984. In fact, also for us, Gasherbrum I (known as Hidden Peak) and Gasherbrum II together in one expedition simply make sense: an "easier" and a "medium" 8,000 m peak ascent with the same approach and departure and base camp. Our team is stronger, the service in the base camp is more extensive and our experienced expedition leaders organize the joint logistics. Only from camp 1 at about 6,000m altitude the ascent ways separate. Depending on your skills and interests you can join for G2 or G1 or both 8,000m peaks as part of our expedition.

Itinerary

I. Reaching the Gasherbrum mountains

Day 1 - Arrival: Individual departure: scheduled flight from Europe, probably with QATAR or TURKISH Airlines.

Day 2 - Islamabad: Arrival early in the morning, airport transfer, and accommodation in a simple, private hotel in Rawalpindi/Islamabad - For security reasons we avoid the big international chains. Expedition briefing. Hotel BnB.

Day 3 - Skardu / Chilas: Ideally flight to Skardu (requires approx. USD150 additional costs). Otherwise by bus via the Karakorum Highway to Chilas. From Besham, a small market town, where lunch is served, the most impressive part of the journey begins. We drive through the dizzying gorge of the Indus River. Journey approx. 10 hours. Flight approx. 45 min - overnight stay. Hotel FB.

Day 4 - Skardu: Reserve day: If the flight takes place, we continue with the program of day 5. The journey takes another eight to ten hours, passing Nanga Parbat and through the deep gorges of the Indus to Skardu. Overnight stay in the comfortable Concordia Motel with a wonderful view over the Indus valley, we will stop for a break. Camp FB, altitude: 2,280m (7,480 ft)

Day 5 - Skardu: Free day to organize. If you are interested, we can drive by jeep in half an hour to Satpara Lake with its crystal clear water, from where we will take a half-day acclimatization hike with a view of the first mountains of the Karakoram. The expedition leader stays in Skardu and takes care of the last formalities. Camp FB, altitude: 2,280m (7,480 ft)

Day 6 - Askole: By jeep, the Braldu Gorge is reached through the lovely Shigar Valley via Dasu. Depending on the conditions, the road can be driven to Askole, the last village, or vehicles may have to be changed about 8 hours drive. Camp FB, altitude: 3,048 m (10,000 ft)

Day 7 - Askole - Jhola: The expected 7-day march to Gasherbrum base camp begins. Today we follow the course of the river Braldu past the Biafo glacier, Korophon (lunch break) to the junction with the Dumordo river. We cross it to reach the camp Jhola, approx. 5 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude above sea level: 3,160 m. (10,367 ft)
Day 8 - Jhola - Paiju: Continuing, partly adventurously close, along the Braldu we reach after some up and down the camp at a green forested island called Paiju, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB.

Day 9 - Paiju: At Paiju, already with a view of the Great Trango Tower and the spikes of the cathedral, we spend a traditional rest day for the porters and for acclimatization. Camp FB, altitude: 3,450 m (11,320 ft)

Day 10 - Paiju - Urdukas: The next day, after a short distance, the 60 kilometers long Baltoro glacier is entered. A laborious up and down over moraines (but with a view of the Trango towers) leads to the southern edge of the glacier, past the Liligo camp to Urdukas, approx. 8 hours hike. Camp FB, altitude: 4,150 m (13,615 ft)

Day 11 - Urdukas - Goro II: We enter the glacier and walk past Masherbrum and Muztagh Tower to the campsite, from now on the ice, approx. 6 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,350 m (14,272 ft)

Day 12 - Goro II - Concordia: In view of the ever more powerful Gasherbrum IV we reach the famous Concordiaplatz with a view of K2, Chogolisa, and Broad Peak, approx. 4 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 4,800m (15,750 ft)

Day 13 - Concordia - Gasherbrum BC: The trail branches off to the south. Along with the upper Baltoro and Abruzzi glaciers, we reach the base camp under the basin of the Gasherbrum group, about 5 hrs. Camp FB, altitude: 5,000 m (16,404 ft).

Day 14 - Gasherbrum BC (Basecamp): We spend a full day to set up and further acclimatize. Camp FB, altitude: 5,000m (16,404 ft).

II. Climbing Gasherbrum I / II

We have 26 days for acclimatization and climbing. The ascent is along the normal route and the climb is very much exposed to weather and conditions. A possible (idealized!) procedure would be

Day 15 - Camp 1 (C1): Ascent and setup for an overnight stay in the 1st high camp - C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)

Day 16 - Camp 2 (C2): Ascent and material depot in the 2nd high camp - C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft) - and descent to the overnight stay in C1.

Day 17 - BC: descent and rest in base camp

Day 18 - BC: Rest day at base camp

Day 19 - C1: Ascent to the overnight stay in C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)

Day 20 - C2: Ascent to overnight stay in C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft)

Day 21 - Camp 3 - Touch: Ascent and material depot in the 3rd high camp at 7000m (22,965 ft) and descent to C1.

Day 22 - BC: Descent and rest in base camp

Day 23 - BC: Rest day at base camp

Day 24 - BC: rest day at base camp

Day 25 - C1: Summit push: Ascent to C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)

Day 26 - C2: Summit push: Ascent to C2 at 6,350m (20,670 ft)

Day 27- C3: Summit push: Ascent to C3 at 7000m (22,965 ft)

Day 28 - Summit day: Ascent to the Gasherburm II - summit at 8,035 m (26,362 ft)

Day 29 - C1: Descent to the C1 at 5,900m (19,355 ft)

Day 30 - BC: Descent to base camp

Extra days (31-40): We have a total of ten days as a reserve. Most likely we will need additional days due to weather (snow, wind, storm) or conditions (danger of avalanches). The acclimatization at 5000m altitude (base camp) level is certainly not yet completed after 2 weeks and further nights in the comfortable base camp will improve our later summit chances.

Hidden Peak (G1): The team at Gasherbrum I will proceed similarly and try to reach at least 7000m altitude during the acclimatization. With the help of our porters/guides, we will set up the camps and attach fixed ropes. The team of the doubleheader G I & G II (if necessary +8 days) will use these and relieve the 1st team during the dismantling.

III. Trek via Gondokoro La

Day 41 - Base camp: Today you have to arrive at the base camp at the latest and should prepare your things for the next day's departure.

Day 42 - Base camp - Camp Ali: We dismantle the base camp and cross the upper Baltoro glacier to Camp Ali at 4,820m (15,815 ft) between Mitre Peak and Chogolisa.

Day 43 - Camp Ali - Gondokoro: As the last highlight of the expedition we cross the Gondokoro La Pass at 5,650m (18,540 ft) into the Hushe Valley. The pass has to be crossed early (or at night) - in the sunrise a great panorama shows up - and then follows the steep descent to Husbang, the crossing of the Gondokoro glacier.

Day 44 - Camp Ali - Gondokoro: The last stage with views of the K6-K7 region and the other side of Masherbrum brings us back to Hushe - towards civilization. The drive through the green Hushe Valley back to Skardu takes six hours. Accommodation as at the beginning of the Concordia Motel.

Day 45+46: Return flight to Rawalpindi. Should the weather not be suitable, we have to start the return trip in 24 hours via the Karakorum Highway.

Day 47: Day for debriefing at the Ministry of Tourism and free time in Rawalpindi / Islamabad. Reserve day for the return journey.

Day 48: Return flight in the early morning and arrival in Germany or Austria, Switzerland.

Inclusion/Exclusions
Inclusions

Full-service price: including all services (base price, base camp, high camp) from DE/AT:

Organization of the whole expedition
SummitClimb expedition leader 
Scheduled flights to Islamabad (Pakistan) - from Germany / Austria
Departure: Berlin, Frankfurt, Düsseldorf, Munich or Vienna 
4 nights in a pension in Islamabad in a double room

Base price includes the "basics" for your Gasherbrum expedition:

  • G1 or G2 climbing permit at a reduced rate (currently 60%)
  • Permit for both mountains (at surcharge)
  • Liaison officer and his costs
  • Fees of the Ministry of Tourism
  • Environmental fee Baltistan-Gilgit
  • Accommodation and full board during the trip from Islamabad to Skardu
  • Local flight ISB-Skardu-ISB or alternatively acclimatized bus
  • Transfers according to the program ISB-Askole-ISB incl. 40 kg of personal luggage
  • Deposited guarantee* for a helicopter rescue (USD 15'000)
  • Extensive emergency pharmacy + pulse oximeter + medical oxygen + hyperbaric chamber.
  • Trekk to base camp incl. 40kg personal luggage
  • Trek in tents (double accommodation)
  • Full board during the trek
  • Boiled water during the trek
  • Transfer of up to 40kg personal luggage
  • All BC equipment:
    - one single tent per participant
    - group tent for (dining tent), kitchen tent, gear tent
    - shower tent and toilet tent
  • Catering by an experienced Pakistani kitchen team
  • Full board in base camp (three warm meals, snacks)
  • Boiled and filtered water at base camp
  • Satellite phone and email in BC (usage at a charge)
  • Solar power system with battery.

Your full-service membership additionally includes:

  • Experienced expedition leader
  • Pakistani high camp porters and/or Sherpa:
    - 1 porter per 4 participants
    - Helicopter rescue insurance for the staff
  • All high camp equipment like tents, stoves, pots, and gas
  • Fixed ropes, group ropes and fixing material
  • UHF/VHF radios (5 Watt)

Exclusions

What is not included?

  • International flights to/from Islamabad
  • Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance*
  • Personal climbing equipment and clothing (available on request)
  • Oxygen bottles, regulator, and mask (available on request)
  • Gratuities for staff
  • Pakistan visa
  • Cost transportation if leaving early

Reviews
1.4/5
based on 1 reviews
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C
Christina P
Gasherbrum I & II Expedition
Die Expedition zum Gasherbrum I und II hatte ich als Full Service Paket gebucht und bezahlte ca. 16.000.- EUR. Felix Berg war der Expeditionleiter (Organisation SummitClimb Deutschland). In allen Bereichen der Expedition gab es jedoch Gründe für Beschwerden, von der Organisation, der Kommunikation bis zum Kundenumgang. Meine Erfahrungen: • Der Reiseplan wurde ohne eine wesentlichen Grund geändert. Laut Plan sollte die Akklimatisierung am Gasherbrum stattfinden (siehe Webseite von Summit Climb). Das wurde geändert und die Akklimatisierung wurde auf den Broad Peak festgelegt. Zur Besteigung hatte ich kein Permit. Deshalb weigerte ich mich am Broad Peak zu klettern. Einen Alternativ-Plan gab mir Herr Berg nicht. Er schlug mir vor zum Gasherbrum Base Camp zu wechseln. • Bezahlte Leistungen (Satellitentelefon, Duschzelt, Reiseapotheke, Gepäcktransport ins Base Camp) wurden nicht oder verspätet erbracht. Zu o.g. Akklimatisierung: Anschließend saß ich alleine fast eine Woche bei schönstem Wetter ohne Messezelt und Gepäck im Gasherbrum Base Camp. Ich hatte zunächst keine Kontaktmöglichkeit per Satellitentelefon zu Herrn Berg. Herr Berg meinte zu einem späteren Zeitpunkt, ich hätte mich selbst um mein Gepäck und die gesamte Organisation rund um den Wechsel ins andere Base Camp kümmern müssen, da ich freiwillig gewechselt sei. Des Weiteren gab es während der gesamten Zeit im Base Camp kein Duschzelt und keine vollständige Reiseapotheke. • Die Kommunikation und der persönliche Umgang zu mir war generell unhöflich und von Arroganz geprägt. • Beim Bergsteigen war man auf sich alleine gestellt. Ein Team aus Hochlagerträgern und Expeditionsleiter begleitete einen nur, wenn es sich zufällig ergab. So ist Herr Berg beim Summit Push bei einem überraschend einsetzenden Sturm weiter geklettert, während ich mit den Hochlagerträgern umgedreht bin. Herr Berg war über Stunden hinweg per Funk nicht erreichbar. Nachdem ich keine Beratung/Info zur weiteren Wetterentwicklung hatte, bin ich teils alleine, teils mit den Hochlagerträgern abgestiegen. Herr Berg begründete später sein Weiterklettern zum Gipfel damit, dass er die Route einrichten musste. Es waren aber zeitgleich mit Herrn Berg zahlreiche andere Expeditionen am Summit Push dabei, die ebenfalls die Route einrichteten. Und ich war der einzige Klient von Herrn Berg. • Herr Berg ist ein professioneller Bergsteiger mit jahrzehnter langer Erfahrung und vielen Erfolgen. Jedoch ist er kein staatlich geprüfter Bergführer (nach IVBV). Die Hochlagerträger verfügen über keine entsprechende Ausbildung. Sie sammeln ihre Erfahrungen direkt am Berg. Weiter sprechen die Hochlagerträger wenig bis kein Englisch. Fazit: Es bleibt die berechtigte Frage: Für was habe ich 16.000.- EUR bezahlt? Ich habe einen Basis Service mit Hochlagerträgern erhalten. Preisgünstiger ist es einen lokalen Anbieter direkt zu buchen (z.B. Mashabrum Expeditions, Karakorum Expeditions, BlueSky). Der Preis für das Trekking und den Gepäcktransport zum Basis Lager und das Base Camp selbst (u.a. Verpflegung, Zelt, Messe-/Dusch-/Toilettenzelt, Satellitentelefon, Expeditons-Apotheke) liegt bei ca. 6000.- US-Dollar (Basis Service). Wenn man einen Hochlagerträger zusätzlich möchte, kostet das 2000.- bis 4000.- US-Dollar (Full Service). Hochlagerträger übernehmen in der Regel den Transport von Zelten, Gas und Kochern ab dem Base Camp bis zum Camp 3. Dazu kommen noch Trinkgelder und Gebühren zum Einrichten der Route (zwischen 400.- bis 800.- US-Dollar). Gut zu wissen ist, dass jede ausländische Expedition (wie z.B. Summit Climb) mit einem lokalen Anbieter zusammen arbeiten muss (gesetzlich festgelegt in Pakistan). Daher ist es wesentlich günstiger den lokalen Anbieter direkt zu buchen. Wenn man vollkommen zum Gipfel getragen werden will, kann ich sehr Kobler & Partner empfehlen. Die sind zwar teurer als Herr Berg, aber das hoch professionelle Gesamtpaket, das man von denen erhält, ist einfach perfekt. Herrn Berg mit seinem Unternehmen Summit Climb kann ich nicht weiterempfehlen.
Year of Expedition : 2022
05-08-2022
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Summit Climb Germany
Expedition Information
Price
$9,753 - $15,001
Months
June, August 17 Days
Activity
Mountaineering, Trekking
Fitness Level 4
Technical Level 3
Guide:Client ratio 1 : 1
Expand location information
Continent: Asia
Country: Pakistan
Location: Gasherbrum I
Elevation: 8,080m/26,509ft
Continent: Asia
Country: Pakistan
Location: Gasherbrum II
Elevation: 8,035m/26,362ft
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$9,753
Expand for Expedition Information
Summit Climb Germany
Expedition Information
Price
$9,753 - $15,001
Months
June, August 17 Days
Activity
Mountaineering, Trekking
Fitness Level 4
Technical Level 3
Guide:Client ratio 1 : 1
Expand location information
Continent: Asia
Country: Pakistan
Location: Gasherbrum I
Elevation: 8,080m/26,509ft
Continent: Asia
Country: Pakistan
Location: Gasherbrum II
Elevation: 8,035m/26,362ft
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