Forbidden Peak's massive granite summit dominates the view from Bostin Basin. It provides
airy and exposed ridge climbing with constant views of the rugged North Cascades all around.
The West Ridge of Forbidden is a highly sought after climb, included in the list of "50 Classic
Climbs in North America". Though only 5.6 at its hardest point, it is a stellar alpine challenge
and requires a long day of engaging ridge climbing with exciting exposure and unbeatable
scenery. This climb is suitable for fit individuals with prior alpine rock climbing experience.
From camp, we approach our climb over glacially scoured rock slabs which give way to snow
higher up. To gain the West Ridge, we climb steep snow early in the season or moderate rock
later on. Several hours of climbing and exposed ridge traversing bring us to the summit, at
which point we reverse our route by downclimbing and rappelling. Stellar climbing in its own
right, this route is also excellent practice for climbs like the Matterhorn or Ama Dablam.
Suggested trip length is 4 days.
You will need to arrive in the greater Seattle area or SeaTac Airport no later than the evening
prior to your scheduled climb. Lodging this night is at your expense. You will be responsible for
providing your own transportation to the specified North Cascades Ranger Station
approximately 2 hours driving time from Seattle.
Day 1: Meet at the designated North Cascades Ranger Station at 8:00 a.m. for group
registration. After a gear check and issue of group gear, hike in to camp below the intended
objective and establish camp. The evening can be spent in review of ropes, knots, rigging and
preparation for the following day.
Day 2: First available day for training, instruction or an ascent of a peak as per your
arrangement with IMG.
Day 3: Typical summit day in the North Cascades, after a day of training out of high camp.
Return to high camp for the night.
Day 4: Casual morning breakfast, take down camp and descend to trail head.
Day 5+: Add additional training and climbing days as your schedule and interest permits.
Recommended trip length is 4-5 days for maximum climbing opportunities.
This was a custom climb of Forbidden's North Ridge, guided by IMG Senior Guide Justin Merle, in September 2018. 2 climbers... 1 guide... 4 days... a challenging and rarely-climbed route... spectacular conditions... laughter and good times all the way! If you are an advanced climber looking for the safest and best guiding available in the North Cascades, IMG is the way to go in my book. More details on my blog: http://pottinger.net/osm/2018/11/forbidden-peak-via-north-ridge-day-3/
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