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Climb the Matterhorn 6 day course

Chamonix Experience (Chamex)
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  • Overview
  • Itinerary
  • Inclusions
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Introduction

Guided Matterhorn ascent via the Hornli ridge from Zermatt. An exceptional 6 day mountaineering course to climb the Matterhorn, the most dramatic mountain in the Alps. Climb the ridge from the Hornli Hut to reach the summit of your dreams: the Matterhorn.

Mount Matterhorn

The Matterhorn (also known as Monte Cervino in Italian or Mont Cervin in French) is probably the most iconic mountain in the Alps; the typical pyramid shape of the Matterhorn summit is familiar even to those who don’t have any mountaineering background. This 4478m high mountain is located in the Swiss alpine region of Zermatt in the Pennine Alps on the border between two countries, Italy and Switzerland.

History of the Matterhorn

This extraordinary mountain is famous not only for its place in mountaineering history, but also for its striking shape and the beautifully exposed climbing it offers. The Matterhorn remained for a long time the unclimbed dream summit of all alpinists; its technical difficulty combined with the impressive appearance of the steep walls made all the early climbers turn back. It was not until 14 July 1865 when a team led by British mountaineer Edward Whymper succeeded to reach the summit. They succeeded by a route which is today the normal route, known as the Hörnli ridge. The first Matterhorn summit came at a terrible price; four of the team climbers - Douglas Hadow, Michel Croz, Lord Francis Douglas and Charles Hudson - fell tragically to their deaths on the descent. Even today, Matterhorn is a very respected mountain by all alpinists. Climbing the Matterhorn requires good levels of fitness, climbing experience and determination.

Our Matterhorn Climbing Course

We have created a 6-day course for groups of up to 4 persons or private individuals to climb Matterhorn. The actual ascent from the Hornli hut normally takes 2 full days. Our 6 day programme includes crucial preparation time for acclimatising and training on warm-up routes. These days will give you a chance to practice moving quickly on similar steep and technical terrain, before tackling the Matterhorn itself. Our UIAGM qualified mountain guides will work with you on your rock climbing skills and foot work with and without crampons, rope work skills and the basic glacier travel techniques. You will climb classic alpine routes around Chamonix and Courmayeur in Italy. If conditions and weather permit, you will climb the iconic Dent du Geant (4013m) as part of your preparation for the Matterhorn.

The last two days of the course will be spent in Zermatt. By this point, you should have the required level of rock and ice climbing and be well acclimatised. The route that we normally use to climb the Matterhorn is the Hörnli Ridge, which offers sustained climbing on a relatively difficult and continuously exposed ridge. This is one of the easiest Matterhorn itineraries and is the first route to be opened on the Matterhorn. At 4478m, climbing this magnificent summit requires a careful technique and efficient movement, not to mention commitment and endurance. The route is 1200m long, so you need to be able to move fast and efficiently on technical terrain to have any chance of reaching the summit within a safe timescale. A big part of the climb is low-grade rock climbing with and/or without crampons over exposed terrain. The descent follows the same route so you will have to climb back down exactly what you have climbed up.

Our Matterhorn mountaineering course is created and calculated for small groups. While this increases the cost of the course, it has significant advantages for you and the success of your summit attempt. Except for the first day, the preparation days will be run on 3:1 and 2:1 client to guide ratio basis, which allows a more personal approach from your mountain guide and more rapid progress in your training. It also allows greater flexibility to focus on whichever techniques you need to improve the most. The Matterhorn ascent has a 1:1 client to guide ratio, which will guarantee you the full attention of your mountain guide and a much greater chance of success.

Climb Matterhorn Private Trip

Don’t hesitate to contact us if you prefer private 1:1 guiding - we would be delighted to create a custom-made programme and budget to meet your needs. Our mountain guides will work with you to plan a trip that will help you achieve your goals and exceed your expectations. As well as planning your training and itinerary, we can also assist with booking accommodation and organising all aspects of your trip - all you have to do is contact us and we'll take care of the rest!

Itinerary



Welcome Meeting in Chamonix



Our Matterhorn expedition starts with an evening meeting between you and your mountain guide at our Chamonix office. Your guide will go though the plan for the week and answer any questions you may have. We will also check your equipment.




Day 1 - Rock Climbing in Chamonix



Today we will go rock climbing at one of the great multi-pitch routes in Chamonix to refresh our rope work skills. We will choose nice easy itineraries that will give us the opportunity to check your level and work on improving your climbing and rope skills. Les Aiguilles Rouges or Plan des Aiguilles offer some great climbing and scrambling terrain to practice on.




Day 2 - Multi-Pitch Climbing in Chamonix



Climbing the Hornli Ridge on Matterhorn will require you to be fast and confident at climbing and scrambling over exposed terrain. This is what we will practice today and routes such as the normal route on the Peigne, Traverse des Crochues or Traverse des Perrons de Vallorcine offer the perfect terrain to do so. Moreover, these are magnificent climbs offering stunning views of the Chamonix valley!




Day 3 - Climb Aiguille d’Entrèves in Italy



Today you will meet your mountain guide in Chamonix in the morning and then drive across to Palud in Italy, where you take the cable car up to Pointe Helbronner (3462m) from where we will climb the Aiguille d’Entrèves. This climb follows a spectacular ridge offering great exposure and amazing views. You will spend the night at the Torino Refuge.




Day 4 - Climb Dent du Géant



The Dent du Géant is a classic Chamonix climbing route that reaches the small summit of the prominent ‘fang’ like feature on the Franco-Italian boarder. The approach to this climb is done in mountaineering boots with crampons. Once at the base of the climb you will put on your rock shoes. The descent consists of a series of spectacular rappels down the vertical south face. Afterwards you will return to Chamonix for the night.




Day 5 - Hike to Hörnli Hut in Zermatt



Today your mountain guide will meet you at our Chamonix office and check if anybody needs to collect any last minute items before the 3 hour drive to Zermatt. You will park in Tasch and take the train to Zermatt, where you will take a cable car up to Schwarzsee. From here it is about a 2.5 hour walk to the Hörnli refuge, where we will stay overnight before beginning our ascent of the Matterhorn the next day.




Day 6 - Climb the Matterhorn



Summit day! You will leave the Hörnli refuge between 3-4am, in the dark with head torches on. The summit climb is with a smaller guide to client ratio (1:1) and will take 4-5 hours to complete. The steeper sections are equipped with fixed cables. The descent will take approximately as long as the ascent. When you return to Zermatt you will have a celebratory late lunch, before making your way back to Chamonix with your mountain guide.


Please note that this is an example itinerary. The exact programme will depend on the weather forecast, conditions and overall climbing level of the group.

Inclusion/Exclusions
Inclusions


  • Mountain Guide Fees

  • Transport

  • Group Equipment

  • Office Support

Exclusions


  • Mountain huts

  • Lift Passes

  • Personal Equipment

  • Insurance

  • Accommodation in Chamonix

  • Travel to Chamonix

  • Food & Drink

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Chamonix Experience (Chamex)
#Mountain Guide, Ski & Adventure Specialists
Expedition Information
Price
$2,890
Months
July, August 6 Days
Activity
Trekking
Fitness Level 4
Technical Level 4
Group Size 1 - 3
Expand location information
Continent: Europe
Country: Switzerland
Location: Matterhorn
Elevation: 4,478m/14,692ft
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$2,890
Expand for Expedition Information
Chamonix Experience (Chamex)
#Mountain Guide, Ski & Adventure Specialists
Expedition Information
Price
$2,890
Months
July, August 6 Days
Activity
Trekking
Fitness Level 4
Technical Level 4
Group Size 1 - 3
Expand location information
Continent: Europe
Country: Switzerland
Location: Matterhorn
Elevation: 4,478m/14,692ft
Save
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