Climb of Mount Elbrus - South Route

We offer an eleven day guided climb of Mount Elbrus by the easier south route with five or six trips every season from May to August. The nearest airport is Mineralnye Vody (normally via Moscow) and the minibus journey to the Baksan Valley is about four hours. 

Accommodation is in a local hotel in the village of Cheget called Hotel Nakra. We acclimatise for three days hiking in the surrounding hills before going on the mountain for a total of six days staying in comfortable mountain huts (rooms sleep up to six). This allows for excellent acclimatisation and two possible summit attempts. The ratio of guide to client is 1:4 for mountain days and 1:6 for valley days and our average summit success rate is 85% on those days when the weather allows a summit attempt. Our trip package includes all accommodation, transport, meals and guides. There are no kitties or extra expenses other than those listed. Mount Elbrus is the highest peak in the Caucasus and in Europe, and one of the famous Seven Summits. The South route is the most common ascent route offering more infrastructure and access to ski lifts and snow machines for carrying equipment and more developed mountain hut accommodation. With an elevation of 5642 metres, Mt Elbrus is a fine ascent which requires basic mountaineering skills, although altitude and unpredictable weather make for a challenging and adventurous trip. It is perfect for people who wish to gain ice and snow experience as full training is given. Despite the fact that it is not a very technical peak to climb, people can get into trouble on this mountain largely due to carelessness, forgetting basic mountaineering principles of going to high altitude and trying to cut costs. Common practises include not providing enough days to acclimatise, and starting the summit day from a lower altitude to avoid the more expensive higher huts. Guides are often working back-to-back trips with no rest, and clients are often given no training in self-arrest or safe movement on crampons.

MOUNTAIN GUIDES ON ELBRUS

We are very proud of our staff who have been working with us since 1999 and are highly experienced and knowledgeable. Sasha Lebedev is our lead guide and organiser; he is also an award-winning author, photographer and anthropologist. Together with Gavin Bate they have achieved a 100% safety track record for Adventure Alternative on the mountain since 1999, largely due to a proper acclimatisation plan, providing proper training on the snow and ice and safe guiding. Other main guides are Jura Lutsak and Sasha Schukin, plus a pool of local guides and mountain rescue personnel who are very well known to us. "Adventure Alternative were brilliant from the word go. Their communication and personal touch from the outset made this an adventure that will live long in the memory. Everything was planned brilliantly, making sure that everyone felt safe and most importantly summited Mt Elbrus. We had a guide who was vastly experienced and always made sure you were safe while enjoying the whole experience. It was a very friendly atmosphere with enough variation in the acclimatisation climbs to keep everyone motivated and enthralled by the amazing place we were in. Seeing other groups form other companies rush the experience confirmed that I really had made the right choice." (S.Butler, 2016) 

MOUNT ELBRUS PROGRAMME

The first few days of acclimatisation in the valleys are very enjoyable and give a taste of the region and the beauty of trekking in Russia. Some people say it is like the Alps fifty years ago, the local food and drink is excellent and there is lots to see and do. This is an important time for acclimatising and very enjoyable, staying in the hotel and having Russian saunas after a days Alpine walking to a maximum height of around 11,000 feet. Once acclimatised the group move onto the mountain, carrying only day sacks (main bags are taken by cable car and snow machine) and staying in the huts which are quite comfortable with eating areas and either bedrooms or dormitory areas. Toilets are 'long drops' and there are no showers. After a few days practising with crampons and further acclimatising to the height of Pastukhov rocks, it is a matter of waiting for the weather to allow for a summit period. From the final National Park Hut to the summit is completed in one day but there will be a prior acclimatisation trek up as far as the Pastukhov Rocks which is around 16,000'. On the summit morning a snow machine ("ratrack") takes you back to these rocks early in the morning which allows time to summit by about midday and descend in the afternoon. We do provide two opportunities to summit the mountain if weather is bad, depending on acclimatization and the group itself. For an entertaining read here is an article on climbing Mount Elbrus by our friends at Sleeping Wild, and the summit days on Elbrus. Adventure film maker Elia Saikaly offers salutary advice on climbing Mount Elbrus and mentions Adventure Alternative. No hidden extras We know that many people hate to arrive into a country and be surprised by hidden costs or essential trip elements not being included in the expedition fee so we offer a comprehensive expedition with no hidden fees or kitties. All meals, land travel, accommodation, saunas, park fees, snow cat and staff salaries are included. The only thing you need to pay for on the ground is additional drinks or other items of a personal nature such as souvenirs or phone calls, and any kit rental you might need. Additionally our itinerary is long enough to give excellent acclimatization and two summit days. Less days are dangerous for a peak just short of 6000 metres (equivalent to Camp 1 on Mount Everest). Reducing the number of days may make the price cheaper but the chances of summitting reduce to around 25% and it is potentially dangerous. Russia is full of red tape and only experienced companies that know the right people and have the right contacts and history in the region smoothly run expeditions in the region. We have years of experience (from 1999) and an excellent team to look after you so that you get the best out of your time in Russia.

WHAT IS THE ROUTE LIKE ON ELBRUS?

The ascent of the West Peak (Standard Route, South Face) is a long ascent over a moderate incline that requires good acclimatization but has few technical difficulties or objective dangers such as crevasses. However, despite the apparent simplicity of this route, it can be dangerous. The altitude, variable weather and low temperature transforms the ascent into a real high altitude adventure. It follows the broad slope as far as the small rock islands known as Pastukhov Rocks and continues straight up for 400 metres towards the East Peak, gradually bearing left until reaching the saddle or col which is a good place to rest and eat. Head west and to the left side of the saddle, ascending the steeper snow slope on a rising traverse to the shoulder of the West Peak and a short distance directly up to the plateau. After crossing the broad and largely featureless plateau there is a short ascent to gain the small summit pinnacle. The average time is from eight to ten hours for the ascent and about four hours for the descent. Crampons, ski poles and a walking axe are necessary, as well as a harness, slings and karabiners for safety, especially on the rising traverse above the Saddle where there is a fixed line to clip into. Helmets are not mandatory, there is no danger of rockfall from above but a chance of head injury in the event of a fall.

MAP OF ELBRUS

Key points on the mountain: Azau Valley:           2350m  - this is the height of the towns of Terskol and Cheget Glacier Lake:          3300m  - this is a lake we sometimes visit on acclimatisation days Bockha Barrels:      3750m  - top of the chair lift and the summer snow line, also known as Garabashi National Park Huts: 3900m  - these are seven new huts which we use as the mountain base Priut–11 Hut:         4050m   - the famous old hut which was burnt down and is now not used Pastukhov Rocks:    4670m - the high point of the acclimatisation walks Saddle:                  5300m  - between the two peaks of the mountain West Summit:        5642m - 50 metres higher than the east peak Read our blog entitled Huts on Elbrus for the full history of the mountain and pictures of all the huts.

EXPERIENCE FOR MOUNT ELBRUS

It is certainly beneficial to have experience of moving on snow and ice for this trip to Mt Elbrus although we provide on-site training in alpine skills such as moving on crampons and self-arrest with a walking axe. This trip tends to attract a wide range of abilities, from people with Seven Summits aspirations who have climbed Kilimanjaro, to experienced hill walkers. This does mean that we have to be sure that everybody has the necessary skills for safety on the hill such as personal movement, understanding of layering and personal climate, handling a slip, being familiar with all the equipment and working in a team. Elbrus is often sold as a walking holiday, but the weather means it can often turn out to be a proper winter mountaineering experience even in the height of the summer season. Comparisons to Kilimanjaro don't work really; this is a lower peak but much colder and requiring movement over permanent snow-covered slopes. Even though the normal route is clear and safe, the mentality towards experience has to be focussed on winter skills.

FITNESS TRAINING FOR ELBRUS

We recommend you work towards this trip with the aim of being capable of multiple days out on the hill carrying a pack up to 10kgs. People who are active in the hills generally have few problems on Mount Elbrus, but extra work on the calf muscles and thigh muscles will help. Cardio-vascular fitness can be assisted by swimming, circuit training and working on a HIIT programme. Altitude is not such a problem on Elbrus because of our acclimatisation programme but summit day is still a big jump in altitude and a long day on the hill in the cold. Eating, drinking and sleeping well and keeping healthy at altitude are equally as important. Our programme allows everyone to build their 'mountain fitness' before going high and acclimatising not just to the height but also the climate and new surroundings. Fitness is mental as well as physical, so we like to promote a happy and positive team spirit before rushing to the top!

EQUIPMENT FOR ELBRUS

July and August are normally quite hot in the valley so you could be wearing shorts and T-shirts with a fleece for the hikes. However you should prepare for winter conditions on the mountain itself. It can be extremely cold and windy with either hard pack, ice or soft snow on the trail.

Make sure boots are double boots (plastic or hybrid), down jackets are mountain quality with hoods, mitts and gloves are warm and waterproof for the snow. Take sunglasses which cover around the eyes because the reflected glare off the snow can be intense, and goggles can either be full UV or yellow tinted for whiteout conditions. Good layering is essential and your daysack should be big enough to accommodate the bulky clothes when you are not wearing them.

For the colder June trips it is important to be particular about the warmth value of your equipment, especially jackets, hats, gloves and mitts and good quality socks in your boots. The slopes are more likely to be hard pack and ice so crampons should be sharp.

For the climbing equipment we recommend a straight walking axe for use on easy slopes and for self arrest, and lightweight is best. Crampons can be 10 point since there is no front pointing, either strap on or clip on depending on your boot. An alpine harness with a 120cm sling and two locking karabiners in case of needing to rope up and also for tying into the fixed line are also necessary. Helmets are optional, there is no danger of rockfall from above but head injuries can be caused in a fall.

MOUNTAIN FACILITIES ON ELBRUS

What are the huts like inside? - The newer National Park huts have electricity and wi-fi, with rooms that accommodate up to six people in bunks that have mattresses. You need to bring your own sleeping bag. There is electricity and some heating. What type of food do we get on the mountain? - We bring our own cook and fresh supplies, and there is a kitchen area where meals are prepared. Soups, stews, pasta, chicken, rice, potatoes and vegetables. Mostly meals high in carbs, plus hot drinks with sweets and biscuits. For breakfast mostly porridge and bread with preserves. What about washing facilities? - There is an opportunity to get some hot water to wash your face and hands but no showers. What about the toilets? - In the new huts the toilets are good but still long drops, but much better than the old infamous ones at Priut-11 hut. Bring some toilet paper of your own and hand gel. How is water prepared? - All water is boiled from the ice and filtered into thermos flasks or used for hot drinks. Do any of the huts have bottles of oxygen or Gamow bags? - No, because there is very quick descent access with the snowcats and on the chair lifts and cable cars. It is very easy to get a sick person down to low altitude very quickly. Is there helicopter evacuation on Elbrus? - No, again because the speed of descent is so quick with the snow cats and cable cars. Further up, rescues are managed by the snow cats and the guides and mountain rescue personnel. How are the snowcats managed on Elbrus and how much do they cost? - Snowcats are owned by individuals who are contactable by mobile phone. They generally try to fill a vehicle with up to 11 people plus kit on a summit morning to take them up to Pastukhov Rocks, and this is organised amongst the Russian guides. Prices change according to numbers but an average is 90 euro per person for a one-way trip. For descents, it is possible to call a snowcat to as high as 5000 metres to pick up a team but the price will be higher, again depending on group size. For our groups we pay for the ascent to Pastukhov Rocks and also for transferring gear to the huts out of the trip fee, but any additional journeys which are not emergencies have to be paid extra by the clients. What happens in an emergency on Elbrus? - All mountain situations are handled by the guides and mountain rescue personnel on the ground, who liaise with the snow cat drivers to effect the optimal rescue scenario. Any emergency descent due to health risk or extreme weather is paid for by the company. There is an emergency shelter in the Saddle where people can rest and mobile phone signal across part of the lower route (not in the Saddle or on the summit). There is no helicopter available so rescues happen using all available human resources on the higher slopes, followed by snowcats from about 5000 metres down to the chair lifts and cable cars. In the valley there is a small clinic and there is a main hospital in Nalchik, about 2 hours down the road. How can we monitor our altitude health on the mountain? - We provide our guides with pulse oximeters to provide a general assessment of oxygen saturation percentage in the blood, and also a stethoscope to listen for potential liquid on the lungs for pulmonary conditions. They also carry common altitude drugs like Diamox. However the guides are not Doctors and therefore each person is free to use these items for self-assessment and discuss any decisions about continuing ascent. The number one rule though is that any sort of persistent altitude symptoms should be treated with a descent. How many times do we get to try and summit? - Two. However in our experience if you try the first time and get turned back by weather or exhaustion, then it is extremely difficult to gather the reserves of energy to try and again the following morning. The two days are mainly to cover weather delays.

WHY CLIMB WITH US?

• We have our own registered guiding company in Russia with guides who have worked with us since 1999 and a reputable network of support staff. Organising trekking trips in Russia is not easy and we take care of all the bureaucracy.
• Our price has no kitties or hidden extras. We include snow machine and cable car costs for the ascent, all meals, a cook with every group providing fresh food, and the correct ratio of guides.
• We provide training in alpine skills on the mountain including self-arrest, crampon movement, using a walking axe correctly. We also provide a comprehensive personalised pre-trip advice service with our head guide.
• We do not attempt the summit in too short a time, our trip allows for good acclimatisation and adequate climbing period with two possible summit windows if the weather and the group capability allows.
• We guide you through all the preparation for the trip to Elbrus including providing the letter of invitation for the Russian visa which allows you to climb the mountain. Safety is our number one priority.

GOING ON A CLIMBING TRIP TO ELBRUS

Climbing the tallest mountain in Europe is a highlight in any outdoor and adventure travel career. With that being said, there are a few differences from home that we would like to shed some light on. Organisation and services in Russia can be very unpredictable. Adventure Alternative guide Sasha and Andrey in the Moscow office will be spending a large amount of time prior to your trip and during its course in contact with various other people trying to ensure that everything runs smoothly. However, the Russian organisational and political culture is different to that in the West and the rules are sometimes changed at the drop of a hat with no explanation or chances for appeal. Do not be too surprised if a routine check of papers takes 3 hours rather than the 15 minutes that it would appear to need. Be assured that Sasha will get the process over with as quickly as possible. He is very good at this after a lifetime of dealing with these issues. To a Western eye, however, it may look like he is not pushing for service, this may sometimes be the worst possible thing to do and will result in an even longer wait. Please do trust Sasha's judgement on this. Security There are occasional reports of instability in the region and we advise all clients to read the FCO website. We make our decision to run our trips based on continual fact-finding from many different sources. Sasha, our Russian Director, is always in touch with local people in the region and every year before the season begins he will visit and assess the local situation. We carry out our threat analyses and risk assessments and make our decisions. In 20 years we have not yet cancelled a trip, and none of our groups have ever run into any problems. Clearly however the decision about whether to go or not is yours, and all we can do is assure you that we have many years of comparison and experience to draw on.