Aconcagua is the highest peak in South America, which gives it membership to the “Seven Summits” club.
It is also the highest trekking peak in the world, though the fact that it is a 'trekking peak' does not mean that it’s easy. The altitude and weather combine to make this an adventure that tests even the toughest. In good conditions it is hard but not technically difficult. In bad conditions it is virtually unclimbable.
As a result of this we build plenty of rest and contingency days into the itinerary. This gives you the best chance of summiting and seeing the great views of the Andes from the top. Our highly experienced local guides have a great record of getting climbers to the summit safely.
If you have already climbed Kilimanjaro, or summited one of the trekking peaks in Nepal, then this is a great next step. However, make sure you turn up the fittest you have ever been and ready for an endurance marathon. The reward for those summiting are amazing - stunning views across the Andes!
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Recommended route
We recommend what is known as the ‘Normal’ route to climb Aconcagua, as this has the best success rate. A map of this route is below.
The Normal Route has a high success rate for four reasons.
- It is the only route that does not require technical climbing experience
- The distance between the high camps is relatively short and the camps are relatively evenly spaced. This makes the effort over the final summit days more manageable
- It is much cheaper and easier to hire private porters on this route which can be a huge help
- The approach from Confluencia is easier, so less energy is used before you really get into the climb
Not only is the success rate highest on the Normal Route, but it is also the safest route. This is because there is a medical service in the Confluencia and Plaza de Mulas base camps, where the level of care is very high. Since it is the busiest route, it is monitored very closely by the Rescue Patrol, which has its operation centre in the Plaza de Mulas base camp. If anything should go wrong, help can be at hand very quickly.
A final attraction of the route is that the descent is the fastest and most direct, taking only two days to the Park exit.
One downside of this route is that the high camps are very exposed to wind storms - our itineraries have contingency days built in to mitigate this. During the high season, it is the busiest, as everyone wants to climb the route with the best chance of success.
When is the best time to climb Aconcagua?
The best time to climb Aconcagua is during the high season, from mid December to the end of January. This period generally offers the most stable weather on the mountain and lots of summit window opportunities. If your schedule doesn't allow for a high season climb, then we recommend looking at the shoulder weeks of the mid-season from either early December or early February.
There are three contingency days in our itinerary to allow for unpredictable weather and the best summit window opportunity. The chart below summarises the weather conditions by climbing season.
How hard is it to climb Aconcagua?
There is no technical climbing on the "Normal Route" up Aconcagua. You need experience walking in crampons and with the use of an ice axe but nothing more. However, the sheer height of Aconcagua, along with extremely cold temperatures on the mountain, make it a challenging ascent, even for accomplished mountaineers.
Since the summit is close to 7,000m, climbers have to spend sustained periods camping in tough conditions at high altitude - this can be mentally and physically draining. Climbers also have to help take kit to the high base camp which involves carrying more than your day pack.
Moreover, weather conditions high up on the mountain can change rapidly, with extremely cold temperatures as low as -30°C not uncommon.
Aconcagua is a big step up from Kilimanjaro. That being said, summiting Aconcagua via the Normal Route is very attainable for those with the right attitude, who have trained well and are mentally prepared for the rigours of high altitude trekking.
Day 1 Arrive in Mendoza
Day 2 Mendoza to Penitentes
Day 3 Los Penitentes via the Horcones Valley to Confluencia (3400m)
Day 4 Confluencia – Plaza de Francia – Confluencia
Day 5 Confluencia – Plaza de Mulas
Day 6 Rest and acclimatise day at Plaza de Mulas
Day 7 Plaza de Mulas – Cerro Bonete – Plaza de Mulas
Day 8 Equipment carry to Plaza Canadá returning to Plaza de Mulas
Day 9 Rest day in Plaza Mulas
Day 10 Plaza de Mulas – Plaza Canadá
Day 11 Canadá – Nido de Condores
Day 12 Nido de Cóndores – Berlín
Day 13 Summit day (6962m)
Day 14 Contingency day
Day 15 Contingency day
Day 16 Berlín – Plaza de Mulas
Day 17 Plaza de Mulas – Mendoza
Day 18 Departure day
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