
Australasia's highest mountain - the most mysterious of the continental summits
Introduction
Rising from the dense tropical jungle of West Papua in Indonesia, Carstensz Pyramid is the most elusive of the Seven Summits. Its remoteness, combined with government restrictions, political instability in the region and frequent tribal warring, has meant that few people have climbed it since the first ascent in 1961. It is undoubtedly the most adventurous, exciting and uncertain trip that we do. Since 1994 we have organised eleven expeditions to Carstensz Pyramid, with each one being different in some way. This new itinerary uses a helicopter from Timika to travel to base camp. The climb itself follows fixed ropes up slabs and corners on the north face of the mountain to reach the summit ridge. The lower section of the climb involves scrambling and rock climbing up to grade 'severe' (USA 5.4). On the ridge, three 'notches' must be negotiated, the first of which is crossed using a fixed cable. Team members need to have appropriate ropework skills and rock climbing experience. If you are considering Carstensz Pyramid, please recognise that this expedition contains a degree of uncertainty, with the potential for political upheaval and for last minute itinerary changes. It is essential that you approach this challenge with a high degree of flexibility, as it is possible for dates and itineraries to change. However, for those looking for a real adventurer’s trip, undeterred by the bureaucracy and uncertainty of Indonesian politics, Carstensz defines organised 'adventure travel' at its most audacious. Join us on Carstensz
- Expeditions planned and led by Jagged Globe
- 100% success in August 2015 via the trekking route from Sugapa
- All permit fees included in the price
- Jagged Globe organises expeditions to all of the Seven Summits and we first climbed Carstensz in 1994
Experience Required
Carstensz Pyramid is the lowest of the Seven Summits, but it is one of the hardest to climb. Unlike the other continental summits the main challenge on Carstensz is technical rock climbing, rather than simply the rigours of climbing at high altitude. Participants need to be familiar with rock climbing techniques and associated ropework. The climb is made from base camp and is usually a 12-14 hour round trip. Team members also need to be proven acclimatisers, having climbed to altitudes of over 5,000m previously. Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.
Day 1-2: Fly to Bali.
Day 3: Gear check and rest day in Bali.
Day 4: Fly to Timika.
Day 5: Helicopter flight to Carstensz Pyramid base camp (3,700m).
Day 6: Rest day/acclimatisation in Base Camp.
Day 7: Climb Carstensz Pyramid. The climb follows an intricate scrambling and rock climbing route up the North Face, utilising fixed ropes to safeguard you. Once you hit the ridge, three notches must be crossed, the first of which has an iron cable suspension 'bridge' across it. The views from the summit across the jungle of West Papua are quite spectacular. Descent is by the same route and involves abseiling. Summit day from base camp to base camp is typically a 14-hour round trip.
Day 8: Helicopter flight to Timika.
Day 9: Fly to Bali.
Day 10 - 11: Spare days. In case of delays.
Day 12: Fly home.
- Economy class return airfares from the UK (unless joining in-country.)
- UK airport taxes
- Road transfer to/from Chamonix from Geneva Airport
- 2 nights' hotel accommodation in Chamonix on a twin-sharing (occasionally triple/quad), half-board basis
- 1 nights' hotel accommodation in London on a twin-sharing (occasionally triple/quad), half-board basis
- 1 nights' mountain hut accommodation in a shared dormitory bunk, half-board basis
- 4 nights' hotel accommodation in Bali: two on outward journey and two on return journey (on a twin sharing, bed and breakfast basis)
- Up to 2 nights' local hotel accommodation in Timika (on a twin sharing, full-board basis)
- All camping facilities and breakfast/lunch/dinner in base camp (single tent in base camp)
- Return flight from Bali to Timika
- Indonesian government royalty fees
- Environmental fee
- All climbing permits
- 3 days' guiding with a qualified IFMGA Mountain Guide in Chamonix. Ratio 1:2 maximum
- All costs for Jagged Globe leader and local guides on Carstensz
- Baggage allowance of 20Kg on internal flight to Timika
- Baggage allowance of 15Kg on helicopter flight to base camp
- Jagged Globe kitbag
- Overseas airports taxes not paid in advance through the international airline ticket
- Visa fees for Indonesia
- Airport transfers in Bali
- Additional hotel/meals in Timika if delayed there
- Lunch and evening meals in Bali
- Lunches in Chamonix
- Any costs incurred as a result of delays or of finishing the expedition early
- Evacuation or unplanned departure from the mountain costs due to illness or other problems
- Excess baggage charges on Timika flight or helicopter flight
- Bar bills and laundry
- Cancellation and medical insurance
- Optional trips
- Tips
- $15,383

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