Carstensz Pyramid

Australasia's highest mountain - the most mysterious of the continental summits

Introduction

Rising from the dense tropical jungle of West Papua in Indonesia, Carstensz Pyramid is the most elusive of the Seven Summits. Its remoteness, combined with government restrictions, political instability in the region and frequent tribal warring, has meant that few people have climbed it since the first ascent in 1961. It is undoubtedly the most adventurous, exciting and uncertain trip that we do. Since 1994 we have organised eleven expeditions to Carstensz Pyramid, with each one being different in some way. This new itinerary uses a helicopter from Timika to travel to base camp. The climb itself follows fixed ropes up slabs and corners on the north face of the mountain to reach the summit ridge. The lower section of the climb involves scrambling and rock climbing up to grade 'severe' (USA 5.4). On the ridge, three 'notches' must be negotiated, the first of which is crossed using a fixed cable. Team members need to have appropriate ropework skills and rock climbing experience. If you are considering Carstensz Pyramid, please recognise that this expedition contains a degree of uncertainty, with the potential for political upheaval and for last minute itinerary changes. It is essential that you approach this challenge with a high degree of flexibility, as it is possible for dates and itineraries to change. However, for those looking for a real adventurer’s trip, undeterred by the bureaucracy and uncertainty of Indonesian politics, Carstensz defines organised 'adventure travel' at its most audacious. Join us on Carstensz 

• Expeditions planned and led by Jagged Globe
• 100% success in August 2015 via the trekking route from Sugapa
• All permit fees included in the price
• Jagged Globe organises expeditions to all of the Seven Summits and we first climbed Carstensz in 1994

Experience Required

Carstensz Pyramid is the lowest of the Seven Summits, but it is one of the hardest to climb. Unlike the other continental summits the main challenge on Carstensz is technical rock climbing, rather than simply the rigours of climbing at high altitude. Participants need to be familiar with rock climbing techniques and associated ropework. The climb is made from base camp and is usually a 12-14 hour round trip. Team members also need to be proven acclimatisers, having climbed to altitudes of over 5,000m previously. Our Scottish Winter Courses and our Alpine Courses provide good skills preparation for an expedition.