🏔 Baruntse 7129M Expedition

EXPEDITION OVERVIEW

Baruntse Peak climbing is one of the best accessible peak climbing to achieve at 7000M level. Mount Baruntse peak is located just between Mt. Everest, Lhotse Shar, and Makalu 8463M with other Himalayan peaks stretching on either side. This climb will give you the necessary experience and skills to progress onto other higher mountains. We do not accept anyone with no-peak climbing experience before and firmly check if you have any prior experience climbing alpine/mountain climbing.

There is no question about the beauty of climbing this 7000M giant but this peak is by no means a walk in the park. Graded at AD+ the climbing route consists of some technical climbs as well as glacier routes. This mountain will shape you with the right experience into climbing 7500M + to 8000M climb should it be your next mountain climbing goal. The steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters make the South-East Ridge of Mount Baruntse a somewhat difficult climb. Therefore, we choose a more accessible and popular alternative via South Ridge.

Our expedition consists of two camps, Camp 1 just after West Col at an altitude of 6,100M and Camp 2 on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. Baruntse Peak expedition itinerary also includes a few days’ treks into the scenic heartland of the Khumbu region.

Expedition Strategy

The steep sections of ice at 50 degrees and a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000 meters make the South-East Ridge of Baruntse a somewhat difficult climb. Therefore, we choose a more accessible and popular alternative via South Ridge. To acclimatize for this 7000M peak we climb the Mera Peak (6476m/21,246ft) which falls on the same route, which gives us a perfect opportunity to get stronger and get ready Baruntse . Our expedition consists of two camps, Camp I just below East Col at an altitude of 5,700m and Camp II on the South-East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. Book Baruntse Peak Adventure Holidays also includes a few day's trek into the scenic heartland of the Khumbu region.

Why is Namas team not acclimatizing at Mera Peak 6476M?

Simply to have more days for rotations and climbing days on Baruntse peak and not get tired/fatigued from the Mera peak climb. Our team has decided to slightly change the strategy with the climbing itinerary as we've found out, clients are not being able to recover fully after climbing Mera Peak and be stronger for the main climb to Baruntse. Recovery at 5400M (Baruntse BC) is challenging. That is why we wanted to go ahead with the new itinerary, we acclimatize at 5840M with the Amphu Lhabtsa pass (rather technical than Mera Peak) climb, and have more days (15 days) arranged for rotations/contingency days and summit push-like our other 7000M peak expeditions. We believe this will set our team in a better position to take on Baruntse peak 7129M.

Amphu Lapcha Pass 5800M via Khumbu region

Amphu Lapcha hosts zigzag glaciers with base camps on the North and south where we have to stop for a camp night. Amphu Lapcha pass is considered one of the toughest passes in Nepal and requires your full climbing skills to make it over the pass. Jumaring up to climb the face of the wall and climbers will also have to scramble/traverse the rocky section of the mountain.

View from Amphu Labtsa passes Imja valley, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island peak, Ama Dablam, and Baruntse, and surrounding peaks are just grand and mesmerizing.

Baruntse Base Camp 5460M

Baruntse base camp is at 5640M, a few kilometers further up the glacier at the entrance to the valley which gives access to East Col. From a camp set up immediately below the pass, it is easy to cross East Col to West col, and reaching Camp 1 (6,146 M) at a large snowy plateau, on the Lower Barun Glacier. This places the expedition team immediately below the South-East Ridge of the mountain and provides a suitable spot for Camp 2 or Advanced Camp 2 (AC2). This plateau could be reached directly up the Lower Barun Glacier but this approach is not recommended as an icefall at the toe of the glacier has made the route impassable in previous years. So a different strategy where one more camp higher on the mountain, at about 6,500 M is placed, from where the summit is attempted.

Our team will practice ascending fixed ropes and rappelling on steep, icy terrain. Hike the glacier just outside of camp and spend a few sessions perfecting skills on overhanging ice. Meanwhile, the Sherpa team will be fixing ropes high in the mountain for the team. Additionally acclimatization hike to the base of the fixed lines below camp 1. The hike features dirt trails, scrambles over rocks, and crosses beautiful glaciers. The day is spent training and preparing for the expedition just below Baruntse peak and then heading back to Baruntse base camp.

Puja Day Ceremony at Base Camp - West Col - Camp 1 (6100 M) Approx 6 hours

Puja ceremonies are performed by praying and asking permission from the god mountain for safe passage, success, and safety of the team in the morning, which is customary before beginning a climb. Many of the western climbers participating take part by placing an object to be used in the climb - ice axe, crampons, boots - on an altar that was made from stones and adorned with Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags. The ceremony is concluded with readings and ritual blessings.

Sherpas’ team carries the loads from basecamp at 5400 meters to camp 1 at 6100 meters and then returns to basecamp. The climb mostly consists of a moderate climb with steeper sections at the West col which is the final ascent before reaching Camp 1. Only the last part is more difficult, where the west col consists of 45 degrees 200-meter-high ice wall. Beautiful views of the surrounding mountains: Ama Dablam, Baruntse, Makalu, and other Himalayan peaks are visible.

Clients are meant to carry their personal loads 60L - 70L throughout the climb.

Guiding Sherpa leader teams fix the rope on all the main difficulties of the summit ridge. Sherpas set up the safest way through the crevasses, overhangs, and icefalls.

Camp 1 - Camp 2 (6,400M) | Time approx: 3 - 4 hours

Camp 2 (6,400M) or advanced Camp 2.1 around 6,500m, in a small col between Baruntse 2 and Baruntse itself. Baruntse 2 is also called Baruntse southeast. The camp lies between the two summits in a saddle-like slope.

Camp 2 - Summit Push and Back to Camp 1 | Time approx: 10 - 12 hours. Technical Challenges at 6900M ridge

Very sharp ridge at (approx 6900m). The sharp ridge provides excellent ice climbing over several steep ice walls and extremely exposed cornices. Ladders are required due to the crevasse at 6900M. Sherpa team fixing the rope will assess the crevasse opening ridge. But normally combining the skills of ice climbing on overhanging ice and through the assistance of fixed rope walking on the narrow steep wall ice wall climbers can overcome the final section of the ridge, then a further 60 - 90 min climb to reach the summit. The summit hosts some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu which can be seen anywhere in the Himalayas.

Making it to the summit is 60% job done. Descending is one of the grueling parts of climbing parts of mountain climbing. From there the descend with all the abseiling skills will demand the climbers’ full attention. So, climbers can celebrate their moment at the top. If weather permits and stays non-windy then climbers might be able to enjoy 30 - 60 min of a celebratory moment with the panoramic view Himalayas. But normally our guiding team will advise the climbers when to descend. It’s best to celebrate and at the same time refuel and gain some of your energy back to be able to descend back to camp 2 or 1 safely. A lot of mountain incidents happen on the way back while descending.

Advice to climbers keen on climbing Baruntse Peak

To Baruntse Summit 7129 M

Interested climbers will definitely have to prepare themselves for technical climbing. On the last 200 meters of altitude, the climbing gets rather technical. Route fixing guides/Sherpas have to take a large number of ropes to fix the way. Baruntse is not for novice climbers. Climbers need to have relevant experiences of previous non-technical and technical climbing experiences. Climbing experiences in the alps, Andes mountains, and the Himalayas is necessary. For climbers with some experience in mountain climbing, it is another great experience to climb Baruntse to further bag and gain a lot of knowledge in mountaineering.