Amadablam is one of the most beautiful aesthetically and exposed Himalayan mountain in the Everest region. It is considered one of the most sough mountains to climb by mountaineering enthusiast, we can see why? It is exposed widely and is clearly visible from most part of Everest region. This expedition involves a cultural trek into base camp, technical rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.We will climb Ama Dablam via the SW ridge, a technical route, and considered to be the standard route. The route is considered a relatively safe route by Himalayan standards.
It was first summited on 13th March 1961 a Silver hut scientific expedition lead by Sir Edmund Hillary. Ever since this beautiful mountain has been a dream expedition for many. Its Southwest ridge line is the most safest route to climb this amazing peak.
Amadablam however is not a easy climb, you will need previous experience of peak or mountain climbing of over 6000-6500 M high and have necessary skills on use of ropes, use of crampons and ice axe have necessary experience on exposure to high altitude climb. You will need a liaison officer and experienced guide to take you to the summit. It is necessary to have experience of ice climbing, peak climbing Island peak or Mt. Blanc before taking on this expedition. Interested climbers with the necessary experience is highly recommended to have the initial necessary experience.
This expedition consists of 3 camps. We will climb through the south west ridge route, which is the most safest compared to others. Once established in Base Camp, we move loads to Camp 1 (5,807m/19,052ft) via a long slope to the beginning of the South West Ridge. The technical climbing begins after Camp 1 as the route consist of slab of rocks then a vertical rock climbing ridge with support of fixed ropes leading directly to Camp 2 (6,277m/20,594ft). The very exposed nature of the route makes for exciting climbing yet the climbing is not as steep as one would imagine. Climbers with moderate technical experience can attempt this route. On summit day, the route crosses between the ice cliffs, then follows a snow arête directly onto the 6,828m/22,401ft summit. However, the climbs are physically demanding and long hours of climbs are necessary on the final summit day.
Amadablam is a climbers mountains. You will need your fitness and climbing skills to be able to look after yourself for long hours during the climb according to terrains. You should be able to take care of yourself even during the though climb session, eating well and staying hydrated from the start of the expedition, making sure your gears are in check and functional during the climb. Your Sherpa expedition leader will guide and motivate you throughout but a lot of the effort lies within your ability to climb and you will be liable to yourself. So, we suggest certain skills especially for Amadablam style expedition.
Rock climbing indoors and outdoors - (i) learn the basics of wearing harness and helmets (ii) tying figure 8 knot and stopper knot (iii) basics of using belaying device correctly (iv) Use ascending and descending devices (iv) basics of using ropes , start/end when climbing (v) learning knowledge of moving while using the gears and being checking the safety features simultaneously.
The more experience you have rock climbing tougher rotes in different types of rock the better it is for you to get familiar with climbing and adjusting during the expeditions.
Abseiling.This is the simplest yet the one of the most important skills to master. Some multi - pitch abseiling knowledge/experience are also required
Climbing on different terrains. Slab rocks, vertical rocks. Scrambling on steep terrains.
Use of Crampons and Ice axe. Winter ice climbing or mountaineering courses are recommended. You should be able to kick step and balance with ice axe on icy slopes to ascend on vertical climb. Ice arrest skills to save your self incase of slips or fall, being comfortable while descending and abseiling on crampons in all the terrains.
Climbing in Altitude. We will be climbing Island peak as a training/acclimatising peak. Your prior experience in climbing should give you a good understanding of your body coping in the altitude. You will be liable to yourself so it is best to build you fitness up to the best level. Our itineraries are designed to be able to help you with proper acclimatisation but you will also have to be aware of your eating pattern and staying properly hydrated.
( All training will be provided in Amadablam base camp by your expedition leader, to refresh your skill memories and get you started into climbing )
Guides /Sherpas. Ratio : clients. Qualification and level of English
On this expedition we aim to have max 8 climbers, we have 1 Main guide who will be IMFGA / NMA certified. He is the main leader of the team. Western guide with IMFGA certified can be arranged upon request. Additional* charges apply. But we believe that Nepalese IMFGA certified guides are more than capable in this day and age and have an excellent level of English. We are committed to responsible tourism and want to enhance and prioritize local Nepalese leaders first, but if the clients request a western guide personally then we can have that arranged.
Sherpa ratio 2:1. Our Sherpas are NMA ( Khumbu climbing center trained/certified ). Personal Sherpa for 1:1 can be arranged who will be solely responsible for the clients but extra additional charges apply. Our Sherpas have an intermediate level of English. Can understand, reply and instruct very well.
Day 1 / 2 Arrival and gear check
Day 3 Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding
Day 4 Trek to Namche
Day 5 Namche
Day 6 Tengboche
Day 7 Dingboche
Day 8 Chukung
Day 9 – 10 Island Peak Climb to prepare for Amadablam climb
Day 11 Ama Dablam Base Camp
Day 12 Ama Dablam Base Camp
Day 13 Climb to Intermediate Camp
Day 14 Climb to Camp 1, sleep IC
Day 15 Camp 1
Day 16 Climb to C2, return to Camp 1
Day 17-18 Base camp
Day 19 Camp 1
Day 20 Camp 2
Day 21 Camp 3
Day 22 Summit and back to Camp 2
Day 23 Base Camp
Day 24 Rest day
Day 25 Return trek to Namche
Day 26 Return trek to Lukla
Day 27 Fly Lukla to Kathmandu
Day 28 Kathmandu relaxation day
Day 29 Departure
- IMFGA/NMA certified Guide leader
- 1:2 Sherpa/Sardar ratio. ( 1:1 Sherpa can be arranged, extra charges apply)
- Head chef and 2 kitchen helpers ( Helpers increase with the numbers in climbing team members )
- Arrival hotel in Kathmandu
- All trekking permits (Khumbu Region Permit and TIMS)
- All internal-local transportation to and from the trekking trail head
- Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner on trek days. (one meal order)
- Lodge accommodation during the trek
- Full porter support to / from Base Camp
- Fooding and camp lodging arrangements at Base Camp on a full board basis (this includes 3 course meals, services of cook crew, camping equipment, kitchen tent, dining tent, toilet tent, shower tent, kitchen items etc)
- Lobuche Peak 6118M acclimatisaion peak
- 40 kgs personal weight
- Freezed dried meals during camping days ( Chicken, mushroom, vegan options etc )
- Single tent for individual use at Base Camp
- Solar charging at Base Camp (Comms will be given the first priority)
- Snacks and goodies for rest days including olives, dry meats, pate, crackers and cheeses,chocolate bars, ground coffee, nuts. Whole bunch of super foods. Hydration/electrolyte tables.
- Tents, pots and pans for use on the mountain
- Expedition tents ( 2 or 1 person tents ) Brands Salewa, Mountain hardwear, samaya equipment, Kailas
- Food and fuel above Ama Dablam Base Camp. Minimum choices from Camp I to Camp III.
- Porter service upto camp I.
- Namas staff stationed at Camp 1 who will be melting ice and providing hot water for you when you camp there
- Training day with technical skills. This is not a course day and you should already be well familiar with abseiling and basic climbing technicques
- Ropes, climbing gear required for equipping the mountain, ice screws, snow stakes etc
- Expedition 1st aid kit including antibiotics and medicines for use at altitude
- Insurance for Base Camp crew
- Insurance for the Climbing Sherpas
- Insurance for porters
- Radio comms team at Base camp
- Frequent update on expeditions
- Porters throughout the expeditions
- Arrival pick up and departure
- Internal flights
- Welcome/Farewell leave Dinner
- Visas and travel insurance
- Entertainment and food ( Kathmandu )
- Bottled drinks and beverages
- Evacuation (will be done in your account)
- Tips (Service Charge in Hotel and Restaurants are included)
- Single supplement Charges
- Laundry, Phone services, Personal expenditure transactions
- Optional trips
- Tea breaks, chocolates or other snacks and any meals beside breakfast, lunch and dinner.
- Delay and cancellation because of natural phenomenon
- International flights to Kathmandu