The Nirekha at 6169m is one of the last real pearls in the Solo Khumbu region. Officially, it was first climbed in 2003 and has not had many visitors since then apart from a few private groups. Even though the location is absolutely ideal! Well acclimatized, we reach the Nirekha base camp over a 5300m high pass via a beautiful trekking route in a less frequented part of the Khumbu which passes the Thame valley towards Nangpa La (that leads to the north-facing Cho Oyu base camp in Tibet).
The Nirekha is a great six-thousander where we will have lots of fun. And it prepares us perfectly for our next challenge. After climbing Nirekha we’re transferred to the Ama Dablam base camp and again arrive well acclimatized for a direct ascent attempt of the beautiful Ama Dablam. Almost sleek alpine style. However, we do not want to do without our Sherpas who set up the high camp and the route. Though this still remains a different type of high altitude mountaineering.
Acclimatizing on a different mountain can almost be considered elegant. And it will exponentially increase the value of your experience. This trip is one of our crown jewels. It doesn’t get any better than this!
See also our Ama Dablam Flash Expedition (Ama Dablam in only 17 days)
- Beautiful, little-known mountain to acclimatize for Ama Dablam
- This combination is only available at Furtenbach Adventures
- 1 sherpa each 2 members
- IFMGA mountain guide
- High camp equipment
- Small group
Day 1-5: Kathmandu, Lukla, Namche Bazaar
Day 1: Arrival and get-together at the hotel in Kathmandu
Everyone will be met at the airport and taken to the hotel, regardless of whether the journey was booked individually or not. And then we will get off to a comfortable start… check in and get to know the others while enjoying a beer on the terrace.
Day 2: Free day in Kathmandu
Wer es noch nicht kennt, wird es lieben. Relaxen, Shoppen in Thamel, Kulturprogramm oder einfach den Flair aufsaugen. Jeder wie er will.
Day 3: Flight to Lukla and trek to Pakding 2650m.
Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar at 3440m.
Day 5: Rest day in Namche. Plenty to explore.
Day 6-13: Trek to and climb Nirekha
Day 6: Trek to Thame 3800m. It is getting quiet from now on.
Day 7: We continue along the charming and secluded valley to Marlung at 4210m.
Day 8: Trek to the foot of Renjo Pass at 4970m. We camp at 4970m.
Day 9: Trek over the Renjo La pass (5360m) to Gokyo at 4790m. If the weather is good, we will be able to see Everest for the first time, as well as our first aim: Nirekha. Camp at 4.790m.
Day 10: Sunrise at Gokyio Ri (5350m), have a brunch and then continue to Dragnag, camp at 4700m.
Day 11: Trek to Nirekha basecamp near or on the glacier at 5400m.
Day 12-13: Climb Nirekha and spare day. The climb follows the gentle glacier t a saddle and then steepens up on the west ridge. Sections up to 60° ice (fixed ropes). After summit we descend from the saddle to the other side of the mountain to Dzonglha at 4900m, where we meet our porters that came over the cho la pass.
Day 14-25: Ama Dablam
Day 14: A short day descending takes us to Periche at 4240m.
Day 15: Trek to Ama Dablam Basecamp 4600m.
Day 16: Rest day for members. Our Sherpas begin to set up high camps.
Day 17-25: Climbing period Ama Dablam. We are well acclimatized and start the climb directly with two camps at 5700m and 6400m. No up and downs for acclimatizing on this rocky ridge. Spare days for bad weather or 2nd attempt.
Day 26-30: Return to Kathmandu, journey home
Day 26: Trek back to Namche via Tengpoche.
Day 27: Trek to Lukla.
Day 28: Flight back to Kathmandu.
Day 29: Free day in Kathmandu or spare day, in case of bad weather on flight day.
Day 30: Journey home.
- Organisation of the expedition
- IFMGA mountain guide
- 4 nights in upscale hotel in Kathmandu on double occupancy, single room optional
- Domestic flights Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu incl. 20kg personal luggage and hand luggage
- All transfers (jeep / private shuttle)
- Fullboard during whole expedition (in Kathmandu only breakfast)
- Drinks at shared meals (no alcoholic drinks)
- Double occupancy in hotels during journey to the mountain
- Porter / Yak to basecamp and back (25kg personal gear / member)
- 1 tent each member in basecamp
- 1 tent each 2 members for approach and high camps
- Mat for apporach and basecamp
- High camp equipment (tents, stove, cooking gear, gas, meals)
- Fixed ropes, fixing material
- 1 Sherpa each 2 members
- Gear, Insurance and helicopter rescue for all staff members
- Medical emergency oxygen
- Emergency medicine, pulseoxymeter
- Kitchen staff
- Comfortable Dome tent in basecamp, shower tent
- Satellite communication and WIFI for a fee and depending on availability
- Solar charging
- All fees and permits
- Weather forecast
- Security and warranty of an Austrian tour operator
- International Airfare to Kathmandu
- Lunch in Kathmandu
- excess luggage for flight Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu
- personal insurance
- Visum for Nepal (available at the airport aftre arrival, take a passport photo!)
- Personal medicine
- Alcoholic beverages
- Personal climbing gear
- Sleeping bag
- High camp mat
- Fees for satellite communication
a really wonderful trip to one of the most beautiful mountains in the world! and a nice, not so easy summit for acclimatization! everything was perfectly organized and the whole team in Austria and in Nepal supported us in the best possible way, so that we could reach the summit really enjoying every step! especially the mountain guide and the sherpas did all to guarantee that we could climb up and down safely and that at the same time there was enough freedom of choice for everybody. I´m sure that climbing with Furtenbach Adventures encreases the chances for the summit and also guarantees an amazing, unforgattable adventure!
- April, May, October, November 30 Days
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