Our Alpamayo Expedition begins in the foothills of the Peruvian Andes as we travel from Lima to the town of Huaraz, the gateway of the Cordillera Blanca. From Huaraz, we head into the mountains and make the two-day trek into a spectacular hanging valley below Alpamayo. Mules help transport our gear to Base Camp, allowing us to make the trek with light daypacks.
After establishing Base Camp, we begin moving our climbing gear higher on the mountain while we acclimatize and review the skills and techniques needed for the climb. We establish two successive camps on the lower slopes of Alpamayo, with our high camp at 18,000'.
Day 1 - TRAVEL DAY
Depart U.S. for Lima, Peru. Most flights arrive in Lima in the late evening. Upon arrival, a taxi ride takes you to our hotel. Overnight in Lima.
Day 2 - HUARAZ • 10,000' | 3,048M
We leave Lima and make the drive in a private van to Huaraz, the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca. The drive takes most of the day. Leaving the coastal plains as we stop for lunch in Chaskitambo (a crossroads for the Inca runner-messengers) we start driving up the Conococha Pass to an elevation of nearly 15,000', where we stop for the first astonishing views of the Cordillera Blanca. A short two-hour drive brings us down to Huaraz in the early evening. (B)
Day 3 - HUARAZ • 10,000' | 3,048M
Today is spent reviewing the equipment we need for the climb and acclimatizing in Huaraz. Overnight in Huaraz. (B)
Day 4 - LLAMA CORRAL • 11,580' | 3,530M
Leaving Huaraz, we drive several hours through small villages and agricultural fields to our trailhead near the village of Cashapampa (9,000'). We organize our gear for mule transport and begin trekking with light daypacks. Several hours on the trail brings us to Llama Corral, where we establish camp for the night. (B, D)
Day 5 - BASE CAMP • 14,270' | 4,349M
We complete the trek, ascending past several lakes to reach the valley below Alpamayo, where we establish Base Camp. (B, D)
Day 6 - BASE CAMP • 14,270' | 4,349M
From Base Camp, we move a portion of our climbing gear up to Moraine Camp (16,000') before returning to Base Camp for the night. (B, D)
Day 7 - BASE CAMP • 14,270' | 4,349M
We spend the day in Base Camp, reviewing technical skills and organizing gear for the climb, resting and acclimatizing. (B, D)
Day 8 - MORAINE CAMP • 16,240' | 4,950M
We leave Base Camp and move to Moraine Camp. (B, D)
Day 9 - COL CAMP • 17,880' | 5,450M
Leaving Moraine Camp, we move onto the glaciers of Alpamayo and negotiate challenging glacial terrain to reach the final steep snow slopes below Col Camp. Col Camp sits on the ridgeline south of Alpamayo, with stunning views of the surrounding peaks. (B, D)
Day 10 - COL CAMP • 17,880' | 5,450M
Rest day at Col Camp in preparation for the summit bid. (B, D)
Day 11 - ALPAMAYO SUMMIT DAY (19,512' | 5,947M) • 17,880' | 5,450M
We make an extremely early alpine start from our High Camp, traversing the glacier to reach the base of Alpamayo's southwest face. Our climb on the French Direct route involves up to 10 pitches of 55 to 70 degree neve (Styrofoam-like snow) and ice before we reach Alpamayo's summit ridge. A final, even steeper, pitch brings us to Alpamayo's small, narrow summit. To descend, we rappel our entire route and return to High Camp. (B, D)
Day 12 - BASE CAMP • 14,270' | 4,349M
We descend from High Camp, crossing back across the lower stretches of Alpamayo's glaciers, to reach Base Camp. (B, D)
Day 13 - CONTINGENCY DAY
This extra day is scheduled into the itinerary in case we encounter poor weather or need additional time for acclimatization.
Day 14 - HUARAZ • 10,000' | 3,048M
We make an early departure from Base Camp and, with the help of horses, descend the valley back to the Cashapampa trailhead. Our private shuttle brings us back to Huaraz where we enjoy hot showers and a celebration dinner. Overnight in Huaraz. (B)
Day 15 - TRAVEL DAY
After breakfast we load our vehicle and make the drive back to Lima. We arrive Lima in the late afternoon and transfer to the airport to catch evening flights home.
Day 16 - TRAVEL DAY
Key: B, L, D = Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner included.
- RMI Leadership
- Hotel accommodations as indicated in the itinerary, based on double occupancy*
- All park entrance fees
- All group transportation in country as indicated in the itinerary
- All group cooking, trekking, camping, and climbing equipment
- International airfare
- Travel insurance, medical evacuation insurance and security evacuation insurance
- Excess baggage fees and departure taxes
- Meals not included in the itinerary
- Bottled water and personal drinks
- Customary guide gratuities
- Support Staff Tip Pool (we suggest $40 per person)
- Additional room charges including laundry service and other personal expenses
- Hotel accommodations not indicated in the itinerary
- Medical, hospitalization and evacuation costs (by any means)
* Accommodations are based on double occupancy. Single Supplement Fee will be charged to those occupying single accommodations by choice or circumstance.