NEW AND EXCLUSIV ONLY WITH FURTENBACH ADVENTURES – To the Roof of South America directly via the Polish Glacier in only 14 days
With its 6962m Aconcagua is the highest mountain of the American continent and one of the Seven Summits.
Worldwide we are the only tour operator, to offer Flash climbs taking only 14 days over the spectacular Polish Glacier route to the Aconcagua summit.
The way over the Polish-Glacier is the most stunning and lonesome one to the summit. It leads from the last camp at 5850m across the glacier trough ice, snow and mixed terrain in a direct line up to the summit. In order to guarantee a safe ascent and descent we’ve installed the same fixed ropes that we use on Everest. Compared to the dry gravel slopes of the normal route and polish traverse, this direct polish glacier route is much more attractive and now finally made accessible.
Climbing Aconcagua over the Direct Polish glacier route is not only a great experience, but also the perfect preparation for Mt. Everest due to the similar terrain and the fixed ropes, installed on both mountains. Furthermore, one climbs a summit over 6500m, which is a future requirement for the Everest-permit. And in addition, there’s the option to book and test the Everest oxygen system on Aconcagua summit day.
Highlights:
- The highest mountain of America (6962m) via direct polish glacier route
- Individual support by our IFMGA mountain guide (only 3-4 people per guide!)
- Helicopter transportation (to/from Basecamp)
- Pre-acclimatization in hypoxic tents
- Travelling through the beautiful scenery of the Andean Region
- 1 personal porter per Person
- Option to book the Everest oxygen system for summit day
Day 1: Mendoza (760m).
Arrival at the Airport in Mendoza and transfer to the hotel. Get together with the mountain guide and other participants, mutual briefing of the exact itinerary of the upcoming days in a cosy atmosphere.
Day 2: Mendoza – Penitentes (2725m).
Transfer from Mendoza to Penitentes in private Shuttles, 2-3h. Last preparations for our climb (as for example collection of the permit). Dinner and overnight in Penitentes (flight to the basecamp this day if the conditions are good)
Day 3: Penitentes – Basecamp Plaza Argentina (4200m).
Transfer to the entrance of the Horcones Valley Park and helicopter flight to the Basecamp Plaza Argentina (if not already yesterday).
Day 4: Basecamp Plaza Argentina- Camp 1 (4877m).
Today we are off! Ascent to Camp 1 (4877m) through a stunning landscape following the 360° route. After arriving we enjoy the rest of the day in the first high camp.
Day 5: Acclimatisation day Camp 1 – Col (5300m)
Hiking to mountain Col (5300m)
Day 6: Camp 1- Camp 2 Guanacos (5456m).
Ascent from Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5456m). We will settle in Camp 2 – sourrounded by stunning scenery.
Day 7: Spare day for bad weather or for relaxation at Camp 2 to charge our batteries for the following days.
Day 8: Restday
Spare day for bad weather or acclimatisation at Camp 2 to start on the next day with much more power.
Day 9: Camp 2 Guanacos – Camp 3 (Polish Glacier) 5850m
Ascent to the beginning of the polish glacier to Camp 3
Day 10: Camp 3 – SUMMIT 6962m - Camp 2 Guanacos Today we want to climb the summit. We have to get up very early and start our direct way crossing the polish glacier to the highest point of South America. The way includes snow, ice flanks up to 50° and an exciting rock chimney to climb, so variety is guaranteed. While Walking up we have a fantastic view. The last meters, we walk on a ridge and will meet the mountaineers, who did the ascent on the normal route. From the summit you will enjoy the view with the Andes, deserts and sometimes you can even see the pacific ocean too. After these stunning moments we descend on the normal route down to camp 2.
Day 11: Camp 2 – Basecamp
Today we will do a rapid descent to basecamp.
Day 12: Basecamp – Penitentes – Mendoza
When the weather is good, we want to fly out by a helicopter. While doing so, we have the possibility to enjoy the fantastic view on Aconcagua for the last time. After the flight, we ride back to Mendoza in a van. Once arrived, we can relax and celebrate our successful expedition together.
Day 13: Spare day for bad weather.
If you have changeable flights, it is possible to leave today, if a spare day is not needed.
Day 14: Adiós Argentina! Individual flight back home or to an ongoing Destination.
- Organisation of the expedition
- High altitude generator and tent for 4 weeks prior to the expedition
- IFMGA mountain guide
- Helicopter transfer from the entrance of Horcones Valley Park – Basecamp – entrance (depending on weather and other conditions)
- 2 nights in upscale hotel in Mendoza with breakfast (single room optional)
- 1 night in Penitentes with breakfast and dinner
- Equipment at the basecamps (sleeping and dining tents, etc.)
- High camp equipment (tents, stove, cooking gear, gas, meals)
- All transfers (jeep / private shuttle)
- Fullboard while at basecamp and high camps
- Entrance fee for the Aconcagua Provincial Park
- Permit for the climb of Aconcagua
- Private Transfers as stated in the itinerary
- Porter (1 porter/person)
- Mules from Penitentes to basecamp and back (25kg personal gear / member)
- Satellite communication, radios and solar charging (according to availability)
- Medical emergency oxygen
- Emergency medicine, pulseoxymeter
- Security and warranty of an Austrian tour operator
- International Airfare (ask for an offer)
- Personal insurance
- Shipping costs for high altitude generator and tent outside of the EU
- Personal medicine
- Meals and drinks not mentioned
- Tips
- Additional helicopter flights
- Additional porters for personal gear
- Personal climbing gear
- Sleeping bag
- All not specifically mentioned included services as well as costs that occur due to leaving the expedition earlier than the group
Optional services:
- Single room in Mendoza USD 280
I had an amazing Experience! - Challenging but absolutely worth it. The Process with the Hypoxia Tent was well guided with clear instructions - just expect that your wife/husband will move to the living room for this time :-) From the Moment I arrived till the moment I was back in the hotel, I had professional and great people around me - everything was very well organized. We had really good food in all camps and the logistic team behind the expedition did an amazing job. The Polish Direct Route is really challenging - it has nothing to do with the normale trekking route - 12 hour accent on ice brought everybody to the limit but we made it and came back to the camp safe. Thank you very much to Ulises, our guide, the Team of Grajales, the logistic team and the Team of Furtenbacher Adventures for everything!
Well organized in all so many details! Going up Aconcagua within 9 days from Mendoza to the summit exposes your body to unparalleled acclimatisation stress. However we were well prepared and received excellent support from our guides and all the supporting staff. So we reached the summit via the Polish Direct route. It was exhausting due to the condition of the glacier but we made it. Give it a try, it is worth the effort in every sense of the word. Saludos a la distancia! Dr. Andreas Gredler, Austria
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